All most on the ground! PB Style

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by jlaird

This is looking great. What was the problem with the Nates Carrier bearing crossmember? Just go in hard?? I'm thinking about getting one.

There was really nothing wrong with it just a little snug to get in. Also the bolt holes didnt line up and there was not enough play, so I trimed 1/4 on each side to give it play then it went in very easy. The trick to this is to clamp (tie strap)your frame before you remove the original member. It will make things much easier when you install the member and will help you perform adjustment to line up the bolt holes.

Just my two cents.

[64shortc10]

Hows your steering working setup like that? Any binding issues without the support holding the shaft? I love the direction this project is going keep up the progress!
Tony from Norcal

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by 64shortc10

Hows your steering working setup like that? Any binding issues without the support holding the shaft? I love the direction this project is going keep up the progress!
Tony from Norcal

Well I dont think I have any binding issues but this what I did; I made sure that I cut the D-Rod where it would not interfear when joints roll into the center. If the rod is to long it will be in the joints way and not allow it to perform to it's maximum capacity. Then I shave about 1/16 on the joints that move in and out of each other (the half round part) because it was slightly rubbing inside the joints inner walls. This is what made it possible, I will really test it when I get the steering wheel on (I had to use vise grips for the mean time).

[Bazooka]

Originally Posted by C10Sim

Well I dont think I have any binding issues but this what I did; I made sure that I cut the D-Rod where it would not interfear when joints roll into the center. If the rod is to long it will be in the joints way and not allow it to perform to it's maximum capacity. Then I shave about 1/16 on the joints that move in and out of each other (the half round part) because it was slightly rubbing inside the joints inner walls. This is what made it possible, I will really test it when I get the steering wheel on (I had to use vise grips for the mean time).

Good info let me know how this works out..

[stunna]

Originally Posted by C10Sim

I finsihed installing the sway bar. I had to cut 1/4'' plate in order to fill some holes under the frame and weld them in to have a proper installation. Welding Overhead Sucks!

I also installed the steering joints and I didnt use all the parts but Im waiting on a response from Nate to see if this is proper or do I need to use DD joint and shaft heim joint aswell.

I think Im going to start on installing my brake pedal assembly. Im little iffy about it just because of the space that is left between from the trans to assembly is real tight and might require major exaust modifacation. We'll See!

just curious, was the the swaybar that nate recommends with this setup? I know he has someone that makes them or something.

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by stunna

just curious, was the the swaybar that nate recommends with this setup? I know he has someone that makes them or something.

Yes, I order this swaybar through Nate.

[PBFAB.COM]

On the steering joints:

It looks like the angle of the joint on the column is approaching (if not at) it's maximum recommended angle. Most headers make it necessary to use three joints and an idler to begin with. Being that you shaved a little off the joint, I would think it would be best to use the third joint and idler to deminish the angles. I have seen plenty of vehicles running it at steep angles, but recommend against it. Steering and brakes are the two most important items on any vehicle.

Nate

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Steering and brakes are the two most important items on any vehicle.

Nate

Thanks for clearing this up, I was aiming for a clean and simple look but as you said Steering and Brakes are most important and I would not want to jeopardise anybody safety.

I guess going 60 miles an hour would be a good time to lose steering abilities.

Im sure this advice will be helpful to others aswell.

[skeeterbug]

looks great, wish i were that far along, are the control arms porter built? what about the fuel tank thats where im at now, need a good idea or product to relocate my fuel tank out of the cab?

skeeterbug

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by skeeterbug

looks great, wish i were that far along, are the control arms porter built? what about the fuel tank thats where im at now, need a good idea or product to relocate my fuel tank out of the cab?

skeeterbug

Thanks,

Yes, those are PB control arms and they look better in person. As for the gas tank I purchased it at Scotts Hot Rods.

[trenz68]

looks good..go with 24s all around

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by trenz68

looks good..go with 24s all around

Thats what Im trying to aim for but I know things will be a little tricky.

[trenz68]

Originally Posted by C10Sim

Thats what Im trying to aim for but I know things will be a little tricky.

it can work,my buddy wished he went 24s all around. Let me know if u need any help, we have alot of c10s at da shop in Baytown

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by trenz68

it can work,my buddy wished he went 24s all around. Let me know if u need any help, we have alot of c10s at da shop in Baytown

I appreciate that!

[C10Sim]

trenz68

What size wheel does your friend have in the rear and how wide is the lip?

[trenz68]

their 24x10s with a 5in lip. shorten the rear end 2 3/4 on each side if i remember right

[n2billet]

Originally Posted by C10Sim

There was really nothing wrong with it just a little snug to get in. Also the bolt holes didnt line up and there was not enough play, so I trimed 1/4 on each side to give it play then it went in very easy. The trick to this is to clamp (tie strap)your frame before you remove the original member. It will make things much easier when you install the member and will help you perform adjustment to line up the bolt holes.

Just my two cents.

I installed mine today........it took me 30 minutes from start to finish but I have a very big Snap-On power hammer By far this has been the easiest part for me to install and my cab is still on the frame....but no two frames are alike..

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by n2billet

I have a very big Snap-On power hammer ....but no two frames are alike..

Cheater! I had to use a die grinder than a disk grinder, than a punch... You get the picture and your right about no two frames are alike. I guess we'll just call them custom frame instead of defective.

[C10Sim]

Well Im trying to set the rear suspension and im going to take my time and measure and measure until I feel that everything is set in its proper position.

I dont know if its me but the rear pinion has a slight offset and is not centered? Correct me if im wrong.

I squared the lower inner links to make sure that everything is straight. So far, good success!

I cut the lower links to 29.5'' long plus the bushings.

Im sure that I will be asking question as I proceed forward.

Nate also built me a rear plate crossmember since my fuel cell requires to be all the way to the rear & he added his own spice to it.

[VA72C10]

Looking good.

[mrenj23]

did that plate come with a jacket

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by mrenj23

did that plate come with a jacket

Ya, but he said that I couldn't wear it until the frame was complete!

[mrenj23]

better get it done before it gets too cold then

[tuckin55]

that members only is dope