has anyone ever notched the axle tube for any extra drop ??

[67cheby]

I know this sounds crazy but when i raised my bedfloor i wasnt planning on buying a dropmember(i should have raised it more) and now i have...So my question is to get maybe an extra 1/2 inch notching the axle tube where they would come up and meet the notch, also considering decking (or grinding down )the top of the rearend for another 1/2 , i know this might sound stupid to some people but if i could get another inch total it would be worth it to me !! I am also taking an inch off of the top of my step notch and welding the plates on the inside instead of the outside just to gain another 1/4 or so .. anyway just asking for input .. can this be done??? you wont offend me just let me know what you think

[N2TRUX]

It sounds like a lot of effort for a 1/2". It would require a quality welder to ensure that the axle housing doesn't loose it's integrity. I'm not saying it can't be done, or won't work, but it would be my last choice.

Better put on your fire retardant undies. I get a feeling your going to get blasted for this one.

[67cheby]

Hey im a carsalesman my job is to take abuse and rejection everyday, im used to it !! Thanks for your input

[smashingchuck]

Maybe you could swap it for one that is smaller? I certainly wouldn't be grinding on the pumpkin.

What rear end do you have now?

[67cheby]

do you have any suggestions of one that is smaller and still wide enough ?? i am just looking for options, the grinding would just be on the top where it would be contacting the bed floor, i got the idea from 4x4 guys they grind off the bottom for extra clearance

[Ronm909]

I get were you going with this.. every little bit counts. i was doing the same with my rear suspension. trying everything . but that does not sound safe... i doubt anyone would recomend that route.... i tried many options myself... back half was the answer for me. cut of my frame after the front bed mounts and built my own frame from there on.. was easier than I thought just alot of measuring... now I got 1" clearance with frame on the floor.... just my opinion... but one thing allways takes from another. its a give an take game. now i wont have much of a bed

[lolife99]

Bigger step notch.
Cut the floor.
In my opinion that would be the only way to make it right.
You chose to install a Dropmember.
(first class suspension set up!)
Make the rear match in quality.

Even if you have to delay the build, to save up the cash to do it right.

[CSGAS]

Keep in mind I think there are better options; but allow me to explain what the issues are and what you would have to do to "make it right" and I think you'll decide to look for something simpler, too.

Our rear ends and most consumer rear ends are "semi-floating" meaning the inner half of the axle shaft floats, not bearing any weight where it engages the gears. The "semi-" describes how the outer end of the axle rests in bearings and seals that share the job of holding up the truck weight between the axle shaft and the axle tubes. For comparison, NASCAR racers use full-floating axles where the axle tubes carry all the weight and the axle shafts are isolated thanks to a separate hub assembly.

That may help with understanding why cutting the tube for a notch is scary. Doing so create a weak point, a new path with less resistance even if it is "almost" as strong as the rest of the tube. Using a whole, smaller tube with thicker wall keeps the strength instead...but you have to have a place that fits the outside diameter of the new tube to make this idea work. A rear end shop that's used to narrowing rear ends, can also use the existing 3" tubes as a starting point, since the inside diameter should be about 2.75" or 2.8"...hopefully the former so a slightly smaller tube can be slipped in and "stepped down" on both the inner and outer sides...you'd count on being luckier than reasonable in order to gain an eighth of clearance.

10-bolts, 8.8" and the like tend to come with smaller diameter tubes already, and if you are worried about the weight bearing capability under a truck without bending what is normally a car rear end, there are "back braces" available normally meant for drag racing or off-road that would stiffen the tubes. These still only gain you about a quarter inch, but also come with smaller center sections so you don't play with grinding ears or webs off the top of the truck center.

[damnyankee36]

I think grinding the top of the pumpkin maybe 1/4" and using a router or grinder to notch another 1/4" from the bottom of the bed wood would work.

[ghettoluxury]

I believe this is what you are wanting to do


Just like CSGAS said these are full flat axles that us 4x4 guys are using and I don't encourage this to be done. Not only are you welding on cast but you also have to grind (or Machine) the ring gear down and that is not something that I would do to a truck that I was going to drive on the road!

[2tons of fun]

its not like you truck will be seeing massive loads or be jumping and hydro hopping, do it.

if you wan to get spanky. pull the axle shafts and outer bearing and seals.

cut your holes and notches.

insert a tight fitting peice of tube down the axle tube from the out side and weld in at the notch.

you will retain maximum strength and it will go a long way in keeping your axle straigh while welding.

[67cheby]

Thanks for all of the input , the other car rearends was one thing i was considering for size difference, is there are car rearend that would be close width wise ??? maybe older car like impala or somethin ?? I have already raised my bed floor i have a step notch to weld in ,just trying to get maximum clearance and looking for ideas... Ideally i woul have raised my floor a couple of more inches.. but i wasnt planning on buying a dropmember at that time ..... as far as grinding on the rearend where it contacts the bed i wasnt thinking of going as far as the picture above just taking it down a 1/4-1/2 inch , and also taking the router to the wood on the bottom .. all ideas i appreciate any input

[smashingchuck]

Have you considered modifying the notch and putting a dimple in the bed floor? To me this would be a lot easier and simpler, let alone safer.

[67cheby]

i am modifying the notch 1 inch off of the top, when i weld it together i am welding the top and bottom plates (it is a suicide door weld together notch) on the inside diameter instead of the outside....As far as the bed floor i just spent ALOT !!!! of money and time to raise it the 4 inches , and my personal preferance is nothing sticking up through the floor of the bed... it looks like i will just have to be happy with a little bit of a rake !!! if the front will lay flat and the back wont !

[ghettoluxury]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

as far as grinding on the rearend where it contacts the bed i wasnt thinking of going as far as the picture above just taking it down a 1/4-1/2 inch , and also taking the router to the wood on the bottom .. all ideas i appreciate any input

I see no problem in this. It shouldn't hurt the structural integrity of the axle, just as long as you weren't going extreme like the pic I posted.