Air bag mounting?

[Envy]

How is everyone mounting the air bags on the rear? I just installed me CPP crossmember and trailing arms, but decided to be patient with mounting the bags. I started making assumptions and drilled to more holes in my mounting plate on the new trailing arm and then realize that was dumb so i called it quits till i got some answers.
Do you just run the one bolt into the center bottom of the bag? (similar to the single bolt on the factory spring) And if so, the bolt is only 3/8" so it has some play in the hole going through the trailing arm. So use a sleeve or just go with it?
Also, the original plate on the bottom of the frame that the top of the springs sits on, does that stay there even with the c-notch kit? Because the directions say to simply trim the outer edge but i didnt know if it would cause a gap between the c-notch bracket and frame.

[Envy]

Im also considering ordering the CPP front control arms, but was wondering if they are worth it. I know they look great, but do the really make a difference in balljoint angles and do they allow a little more drop due to eliminating the lower cups? thanks

[65Custom]

Originally Posted by Envy

How is everyone mounting the air bags on the rear? I just installed me CPP crossmember and trailing arms, but decided to be patient with mounting the bags. I started making assumptions and drilled to more holes in my mounting plate on the new trailing arm and then realize that was dumb so i called it quits till i got some answers.
Do you just run the one bolt into the center bottom of the bag? (similar to the single bolt on the factory spring) And if so, the bolt is only 3/8" so it has some play in the hole going through the trailing arm. So use a sleeve or just go with it?
Also, the original plate on the bottom of the frame that the top of the springs sits on, does that stay there even with the c-notch kit? Because the directions say to simply trim the outer edge but i didnt know if it would cause a gap between the c-notch bracket and frame.

You brought up something that I haven't thought about related to the bolt in the bottom, I think if you can get a sleeve to put in there that would be best although I don't think that it would be a problem with out it. For my bags I just centered and welded the bag plate right over the hole where the orig bolts went on the trailing arms and of course I tested fitted everything before I welded the plate in place.

Post a pic of the piece you are talking about on the frame. I didn't notch my frame I didn't want to go that low on mine but I don't think you need to cut that unless you are notching it and that section falls into the notch area

[vin63]

My rear air springs mount in the same location as the coils spring retainer hardware. If you're referring to the top mount, there is a top-mount kit that includes a spacer and plate that allows you to use the same upper coil spring mount retainer location. I'll pull off one of my air springs and take a photo of the assembly.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Envy, I moved this for you to the "Suspension" section of the forum. It will still show up in the 60-66 section too, so you should get more answers this way.
Good luck.

[DKN]

Originally Posted by Envy

Im also considering ordering the CPP front control arms, but was wondering if they are worth it. I know they look great, but do the really make a difference in balljoint angles and do they allow a little more drop due to eliminating the lower cups? thanks

The rear bag can be bolted to the trailing arm without a sleeve. Once the bolt is tight it will not move.

The lower control arms use a different pivot bushing and shaft assembly. This make the lowest point the U-bolt that mounts the cross shaft. The next lowest point is the crossmember. We built the arms with slight angles on the cross tube so that if you drag the arm over an absoticle the arm will slide over smoothly. These babys are strong, and give you as much ground clearance as possible.

The upper arms are longer that stock. If you are running a stock hieght coil spring simply remove the factory half round spacers that fit between the upper shaft and the frame. If you have the truck lifted or lowered the extra length means you need less shims, and the original mounting studs are long enough to work.

Danny Nix
CPP