Another Pinion angle question

[gtbrain]

Yep, I've read a pile of posts on setting pinion angle and I'm still not sure if I'm going at it right.

I have 0 degrees at the transmission yoke.
After tightening my carrier bearing, I have 0 degrees at the end of my first driveline.
At the rearend, i am at -1 degree. My pinion is pointing down slightly.

Is this acceptable?

Thanks in advance for any input.

[62 mark]

Did you change out something? when i swapped rear axles, and had to weld on new perches, i took a reading off the machined surface(where the cover bolts on) then loosely bolted in the new axle,and set it to the same reading...hope this helps...Mark

[gtbrain]

Yes, the original rearend is out and being replaced with one from an 83, so I am in the process of welding on the new perches.

[jonzcustomshop]

I had read that the pinion should be at the same angle as the transmission, I am not sure about with a 2 piece driveline though... but when I did my model t hot rod, they were both at +1 degree with a 1 piece driveline.

[GruntMoanCough]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I had read that the pinion should be at the same angle as the transmission, I am not sure about with a 2 piece driveline though...

That's what I always understood, too. Here's some more reading for you....

http://jniolon.clubfte.com/driveline...nephasing.html

[TR65]

GTBRAIN,

Here is some more info and the link discusses multi driveshafts. Good luck.

Engines are designed to sit at an angle of about 3-4 degrees, high in front sloping down to the rear. Intake manifolds are machined at that angle the other way so the carbs sit level. On my engine the cover brackets are made at 4 degrees the other way so that the engine looks level in the car. I think the main issue is to get the drive line angles correct. Typically the differential is also mounted with nose up 3-4 degrees (although my truck was set at 6 degrees). When the drive shaft is installed then the "working angle" of the universal joints (that is the angle between the transmission tailshaft and the driveshaft, and the angle between the differential output and the driveshaft) is equal to within 1/2 degree, greater than 1 degree and less than 3 degrees. That way the universal joint forces, front and rear cancel each other and are not large in any case. So why not run a straight shot between the engine and differential? Then the universals don't "work" (the needles in the universals don't roll) and the needle bearings "brinell" on the race and wear out.

Here is a good link on all that. More than you wanted to know probably. I don't want drive line vibrations messing up my ride.

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

TR

[gtbrain]

thank you. i will check it out.