C20 Spindle Swap

[Sixxer]

I searched around but couldn't get a definite answer. I have a 1964 Chevy C20 and I have a complete 5 lug disk swap from a 1972 Chevy. The issue is should I be installing 1972 1/2 ton ball joints and tie rods or 1964 1/2 ton ball joints. I know most people recommendation is to swap all the control arms but I have buckets for bags welded into these arms and don't want to loose that, so much time and money down the drain if I was to swap them out. Anybody have any ideas here?

[protrash64]

Your balljoints should match your spindles, IIRC. I dont know if the b/j will work in the 3/4 ton arm, however. I seem to remember reading that the a-arms have different size for C10 versus C20.

There are a few on here that know for sure. Cap't Fab will probably chime in at some point.

[Sixxer]

Originally Posted by protrash64

Your balljoints should match your spindles, IIRC. I dont know if the b/j will work in the 3/4 ton arm, however. I seem to remember reading that the a-arms have different size for C10 versus C20.

There are a few on here that know for sure. Cap't Fab will probably chime in at some point.

Ok thats what I was thinking but the A-arm throws that off. I was looking for a direct answer and I only found 1 post about it and they were questioning it, not answering. Thanks for your help sir!

[protrash64]

There was a disc brake reference thread that had a ton of info about suspension stuff. Maybe someone can pull it up...I dont keep threads.

[Captainfab]

The balljoint holes in the C20 arms are larger than the C10 balljoints. I believe you could do this conversion using the spindles, rotors, calipers, balljoints, etc from a '88-'98 1500 series truck. The one drawback there is you will have metric wheel studs on the front. Otherwise you will have to change the lower control arms.

[Sixxer]

Well that's just not going to work. I've researched all over and it looks like several people in 67-72 gen have reamed out the opening on the spindle. Is 1.5" per foot the right reamer?

[Sixxer]

Here is the thread in question!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=105710

[Captainfab]

I do know that the tie rods and pitman arm are 1.5" per foot taper, and I'm fairly certain that the ball joints are as well. I bought a 1.5" per foot reamer on ebay from the manufacturer. The sellers name is Xcutt I believe.

Originally Posted by Sixxer

Well that's just not going to work. I've researched all over and it looks like several people in 67-72 gen have reamed out the opening on the spindle. Is 1.5" per foot the right reamer?

[jjjvoelker]

Contact Stan at Early Classic he's the man he will have everything you need.

link--- www.earlyclassic.com

[Sixxer]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I do know that the tie rods and pitman arm are 1.5" per foot taper, and I'm fairly certain that the ball joints are as well. I bought a 1.5" per foot reamer on ebay from the manufacturer. The sellers name is Xcutt I believe.

Perfect! I'll be buying it here shortly and will post pics of what happens.

Originally Posted by jjjvoelker

Contact Stan at Early Classic he's the man he will have everything you need.

link--- www.earlyclassic.com

Tried and the only thing they could do was get me a drop spindle for a C20, I'm already plenty low and I already have spindles. Someone needs to experiment with reaming the spindles... I might as well give it a go so the C20 guys will have more options.

[panelrodder81]

I've considered biting the bullet for the C20 guys too but in a different way. If i could ever get something else to drive I was going to put the 64 C20 on stands and take the thing a part and take the ball joints to Checker/Autozone/etc and see if any other ball joints, like the '98s match. If so that would be huge jump forward. The only thing better would be if the A arms from the 98 would bolt right up to the 64 C20 xmember... maybe I'll have to try that too.

Kinda hard to try stuff when its your daily!

[Sixxer]

Originally Posted by panelrodder81

I've considered biting the bullet for the C20 guys too but in a different way. If i could ever get something else to drive I was going to put the 64 C20 on stands and take the thing a part and take the ball joints to Checker/Autozone/etc and see if any other ball joints, like the '98s match. If so that would be huge jump forward. The only thing better would be if the A arms from the 98 would bolt right up to the 64 C20 xmember... maybe I'll have to try that too.

Kinda hard to try stuff when its your daily!

mmmmmmhmm worth looking into, but what I trying to work around is that I already have the 72 disk brakes and I don't wanna have to buy another generation. Are you trying to swap away from 8 lug too?