New manifold still no low end power

[jimmybeus]

Ok here's the story. When I got the motor I was told it was a 350 come to find out it is a 383. The manifold that was on it was the Torker 2 by Edelbrock. I didn't have the low end power that I thought it should. I did some research and found that the Torker isn,t made for low end (I'm sure most of you knew that) so I took the Performer (2101) that was on the first motor and installed it. Put everything on it today and took it out for a drive and now it feels even boggier on the low end than the Torker was. I still have great top end. I set the timing at 2 degrees advance. That is what the Edelbrock recomended. I adjusted the front mixture valves on the carb. The engine idles smooth even with the lope from the cam. My problem about the engine is I am not sure what all was done to it. The kid told me that the cam and intake was a matched set and so by putting the Performer on it would that be what is causing my problems? The carb is the 1406 Edelbrock and that was the one on the other motor with the Performer intake. I am wondering if I need to rejet it even though the truck is from this elevation (6400'). Is there any other adjustments that I can try?
Thanks for any and all info. I have really learned a lot from this site.

[PRattenbury]

I imagine a cam that was matched to the Torker manifold is probably made to live in the higher RPM range. But you might want to just check the vital signs on the engine anyway before you get too crazy with it. Meaning compression, vacuum and so forth. I made the mistake of not checking first, and put time and money into an engine that had a bad cylinder to begin with (I guess). Now I have to get another engine. That said, I'd be looking at the cam as the culprit next.

[jchav62]

I was guessing cam too. It's probably a high RPM cam. Sounds like this engine has changed a few hands, and the history of it was not included.

[nbpro]

the gears and tanny would be a part in this would it not ? as for the low end power just asking

[jimmybeus]

The tranny is a 700r4 with 3.08 gears. How would I be able to tell anything about the cam or is disassembly of it the only way? Another thing was when I pulled it out of my drive way and put it in gear it died and I had to hold the throttle to the floor to get it to finally fire. Thats why I am wondering if it could have something to do with fuel/jetting.

[nbpro]

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1406.pdf

[bitchin85]

Originally Posted by jimmybeus

The tranny is a 700r4 with 3.08 gears. How would I be able to tell anything about the cam or is disassembly of it the only way? Another thing was when I pulled it out of my drive way and put it in gear it died and I had to hold the throttle to the floor to get it to finally fire. Thats why I am wondering if it could have something to do with fuel/jetting.

well the 3.08 gears, 700r4, and the big tires (if its the truck on ur avitar) are the oposite of what you need for low end "git up"... and if the cam is that lopey, and matched to the torqer II manifold, maybe the PO didnt put a stahl converter in the tranny? this could be why it died driving during low rpms

id put the torqer back on, and think about going with 3.73s or 4.11s especially with the 700r4 and maybe thing about a little bigger carb but thats just my .02

good luck

[jimmybeus]

I am wanting to put 3/4 ton axles under sometime in the future that is geared a little bit better for what I want. Ya it is sporting 35x 12.50s with the lift. The kid told me he had this motor in his 78 blazer that had 44 rubbers and that it was plenty of power to turn them. I think he was talking to hear himself. It does run awesome down the road at 65-70 but I suppose with those gears and tranny it should huh?

[benoit454]

yes with those tires, gears and trans it should love highway but around town, take off and torque is aweful. We had a stock built 350 basically with a summit 1102 cam edelbrock 600cfm carb, and stock quadrajet intake and it ran the exact same as the old 305 did basically, it had a little more power but not a noticeable amount really, we had 33's a 700r4 and 3.08's too.

If I were you I'd look into 4.10 or 4.11's bare minimum. Maybe even 4.56's or so with overdrive and 35's. then if you want more, switch cams.

wanna know how you can tell if it'll work? find some small tires, on some 6 lug wheels that fit and try it. maybe some 235 75's or something, you need a shorter tire like a 30 inch tall or so, if you do that and only that and it has alot more torque which it should, you need to regear. I already know you do, but it'll show you and have the seat of the pants feel to see how much different it is.

[bitchin85]

when i went from 2.73s to 3.42s (th350 31x10.5s and a stock 350) it made a real noticeable difference.

[355bullet]

you installed the Performer or the Performer RPM?
The Performer RPM is the one u want. the Performer is kinda like a stock replacement.
Try a fuel regulator with that carb. A friend of mine runs a fuel regulator on all his street rods, some of those carbs are pressure sensitive.

Nice truck!! stick some 3:73's or 4:10's it will wake that truck up with them tires

[Shawn5488]

Sounds like you are going to have to go to a much smaller cam.

[cableguy0]

Your tires and gearing are the problem. You need at least a 4.10 gear with a 35 inch tire. 4.56 would be better especially with the 700r4. I dont care how much power your making your gear and tire combo is too much to overcome

[nbpro]

Originally Posted by 355bullet

you installed the Performer or the Performer RPM?
The Performer RPM is the one u want. the Performer is kinda like a stock replacement.
Try a fuel regulator with that carb. A friend of mine runs a fuel regulator on all his street rods, some of those carbs are pressure sensitive.

Nice truck!! stick some 3:73's or 4:10's it will wake that truck up with them tires

from Edelbrock
PERFORMER - '86 & EARLIER (idle-5500 rpm)
Designed for street 1955-86 262-400 c.i.d. small-block Chevys. #2101 is stock replacement/street legal part for 302, 327 and 350 V8s with OEM 4-bbl. or Edelbrock #1400 carb; 1966-72 (1973 non-California) cars, 1966-83 trucks and Suburbans; except stock equipped EGR. #3701 is stock replacement/street legal part for 305, 350 and 400 V8s with OEM 4-bbl. or Edelbrock #1400 carb.; 1972-86 and GM corporate engines with 350 V8s; 1981-86. Performers accept late-model choke, waterneck, air-conditioning, alternator and H.E.I. Has provisions to add oil fill tube. Not for 1987 and later cast iron or Chevy Bowtie heads. Will fit 1987 and later stock aluminum heads. Available with standard finish or polished.

[jimmybeus]

Ok here's the update. After reading and watching Edelbrock's tech info I advanced my timing and put the accelerator pump rod in a different hole. The improvement was actually quite noticeable and I am happy with those small adjustments. I am still gonna either look for different gears or put some 3/4 ton axles under Lil Red. Thanks for the input and ideas. I swear I learn more and more every time I get on this site.

[SSC's76]

Originally Posted by jimmybeus

Ok here's the update. After reading and watching Edelbrock's tech info I advanced my timing and put the accelerator pump rod in a different hole. The improvement was actually quite noticeable and I am happy with those small adjustments. I am still gonna either look for different gears or put some 3/4 ton axles under Lil Red. Thanks for the input and ideas. I swear I learn more and more every time I get on this site.

Gee you beat me to it as i was reading down the thread i was hoping some one would say keep bumping the timing up. Honestly the intake manifold has jack squat effect on low end. The only time you going to run into an issue is if you were running a tunnel ram even then you can do it but only if you like changing your spark plugs often and cranking black smoke on startup. Granted its not a setup i would suggest.

Bump up your timing even more since you dont know what cam is in the beast i suggest using this method. I could type it but this link is close enough. http://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html

[nbpro]

Intake manifolds direct the air and fuel mixture to each cylinder in the engine. They have a direct impact on the performance of the engine. The amount of horsepower an engine produces and at what RPM is dependent on how fast air and fuel can be moved through the engine, how much and how fast the air can be brought in and how fast it can be burned and exhausted from the engine.

There are many intake manifold configurations. Each of these have different characteristics as to the RPM at which they're most efficient, the torque range at which they're most proficient, the amount of air they can move and how well they dissipate heat. In order to efficiently increase power in an engine, this whole scenario must be met. Moving air and fuel through the engine means exactly that. What comes in must go out. Many performance shops promote their products in terms of increased horsepower their product will generate. They don't say, however, that this is only in conjunction with these other components. A higher-performance intake with the same carburetor or fuel injection won't do much in the way of performance. The fuel hasn't been increased to make use of the high-performance intake, the camshaft is only going to open the valves for the same amount to allow the same amount of fuel in, and the exhaust is only going to let the same amount out.

There two styles of manifolds, both with many variations as to runner length, amount of air it will flow, how many carbs can be used, how large a throttle body can be used, the ability to be drilled for port fuel injectors, how high it is and how well it dissipates heat--just to mention a few. The two styles are a dual plenum and an open plenum. The dual plenum has a wall inside that separates the primary and secondary sections of a carb on a carbureted engine. The dual plenum gives higher vacuum off idle and better fuel flow for low- to medium-horsepower engines. This will give better low-end torque for better acceleration from a stop. However, this type of intake manifold is not good for high RPM. The open plenum is better for high RPM, from 3,000 to whatever limits are on the engine and the particular manifold. On a fuel-injected engine, the manifold--regardless of design--should match the mass air flow sensor and throttle body.
Conclusion
High-performance intake manifolds are designed to create more vacuum to suck more fuel from a carburetor if the carb has enough capacity. High-performance intake manifolds don't do much for fuel injection at normal RPMs. By itself, an intake manifold can produce marginal performance upgrades at high RPM, and in some cases increase the torque at low RPM with no further modification