Clutch Problems - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

OhioDan · 10-16-2010, 11:58 PM

What am I doing, or not doing correctly? I set the free play at about 1/2"-3/4". Everything is brand new. It seems like when you push on the pedal, it has to be on the floor, and it still doesn't completely release the clutch disc. I have the grandma 4 spd., a Borg and Beck clutch and pressure plate, and the fly wheel has been turned. Getting it to go into 1st(2nd) gear, it grinds a little. And when you shift to 2nd(3rd) you have to work it into gear. When you shift from 2nd(3rd) to 3rd(4th) gear, it seems okay. In 1st gear, on flat ground, when you have the clutch pedal to the floor it still wants to creep forward. It's a real bear to get it in reverse. It almost feels like a part of the linkage is to short, and you don't have enough throw to disengage the clutch? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx in advance.

geezer#99 · 10-17-2010, 12:11 AM

Where did you measure the free play at??

OhioDan · 10-17-2010, 12:31 AM

At the pedal inside the cab.

Kerry P · 10-17-2010, 12:53 AM

Did you have difficulty getting the transmission into the bell housing? If the weight of the transmission is allowed to cantilever on the disk before the trans is fully pushed into the bell housing the disk can bend. This can result in a failure to disengage cleanly. Not a common problem but it can happen.

Did you note the orientation of the disk? They have a "flywheel side". Sometimes it will fit either way but not disengage fully it in backwards.

If you have 3/4" of free play can you adjust any more of it out? Just a little less free play may get rid of the drag.

Kerry P

geezer#99 · 10-17-2010, 12:53 AM

Pull the cover off the bellhousing and adjust your linkage so the throw out bearing is just clearing the fingers. Don't worry about how much play you have in the pedal. With the change to the borg and beck you might not have any free play or very little.

knsmodels · 10-17-2010, 11:25 PM

just had this same problem with my Chevelle....I just needed to adjust the rod on the zbar linkage to give me more clutch...it was not completely disengaging before I adjusted it....I would try that before ripping anything apart....good luck.....

dznucks · 10-18-2010, 07:15 AM

You probably need to adjust the clutch fork pivot ball.

OhioDan · 10-21-2010, 08:26 PM

Clutch fork pivot ball? How would ya adjust that? Thought ya just screwed it in and tightened?

Jacfourteen · 10-22-2010, 01:11 AM

First thing to come to my mind was disk put in backwards. I would try taking a little more play out first though.

RustyParts · 10-22-2010, 09:35 AM

Hope they gave you the correct throw out bearing. The finger type pressure plate uses a different bearing than the diaphragm, one is longer than the other. Might want to check this thread.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=373669

10-16-2010, 11:58 PM	#1
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Clutch Problems What am I doing, or not doing correctly? I set the free play at about 1/2"-3/4". Everything is brand new. It seems like when you push on the pedal, it has to be on the floor, and it still doesn't completely release the clutch disc. I have the grandma 4 spd., a Borg and Beck clutch and pressure plate, and the fly wheel has been turned. Getting it to go into 1st(2nd) gear, it grinds a little. And when you shift to 2nd(3rd) you have to work it into gear. When you shift from 2nd(3rd) to 3rd(4th) gear, it seems okay. In 1st gear, on flat ground, when you have the clutch pedal to the floor it still wants to creep forward. It's a real bear to get it in reverse. It almost feels like a part of the linkage is to short, and you don't have enough throw to disengage the clutch? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx in advance. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-17-2010, 12:11 AM	#2
geezer#99 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bowser Posts: 13,751	Re: Clutch Problems Where did you measure the free play at??

10-17-2010, 12:31 AM	#3
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Re: Clutch Problems At the pedal inside the cab. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-17-2010, 12:53 AM	#4
Kerry P Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Harrison Arkansas Posts: 164	Re: Clutch Problems Did you have difficulty getting the transmission into the bell housing? If the weight of the transmission is allowed to cantilever on the disk before the trans is fully pushed into the bell housing the disk can bend. This can result in a failure to disengage cleanly. Not a common problem but it can happen. Did you note the orientation of the disk? They have a "flywheel side". Sometimes it will fit either way but not disengage fully it in backwards. If you have 3/4" of free play can you adjust any more of it out? Just a little less free play may get rid of the drag. Kerry P

10-17-2010, 12:53 AM	#5
geezer#99 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bowser Posts: 13,751	Re: Clutch Problems Pull the cover off the bellhousing and adjust your linkage so the throw out bearing is just clearing the fingers. Don't worry about how much play you have in the pedal. With the change to the borg and beck you might not have any free play or very little.

10-17-2010, 11:25 PM	#6
knsmodels I make Models Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bucks, PA Posts: 626	Re: Clutch Problems just had this same problem with my Chevelle....I just needed to adjust the rod on the zbar linkage to give me more clutch...it was not completely disengaging before I adjusted it....I would try that before ripping anything apart....good luck..... __________________ Click to see what I do 1972 LWB K10 350/4 sp 1968 SS Chevelle 396/tremac5spd

10-18-2010, 07:15 AM	#7
dznucks Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Smyrna, Ga Posts: 1,647	Re: Clutch Problems You probably need to adjust the clutch fork pivot ball.

10-21-2010, 08:26 PM	#8
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Re: Clutch Problems Clutch fork pivot ball? How would ya adjust that? Thought ya just screwed it in and tightened? __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

10-22-2010, 01:11 AM	#9
Jacfourteen Big Red - Now its a SWB! Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Oroville, Ca Posts: 1,624	Re: Clutch Problems First thing to come to my mind was disk put in backwards. I would try taking a little more play out first though. __________________ 68 3/4 ton (Project)-350 Small Block, .030 over, 10:1 comp, 3998993 heads, C3BX edelbrock intake, comp cams XE268, Holley 670 SA, long tube headers, dual flow 40's, E-fan, Alum rad, currently under the knife getting shortened and bagged build thread 41 3/4 ton (wife's)-flatbed, fully restored to original 01 Tahoe LT 4WD (my daily driver)-Magnaflow Muffler, Rollin on 22's 02 Ford Mustang Convertable (Wife's Car)-Flowmaster 50, Clear corners, Intake, sittin on 18's

10-22-2010, 09:35 AM	#10
RustyParts Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Wyman, Kentucky Posts: 403	Re: Clutch Problems Hope they gave you the correct throw out bearing. The finger type pressure plate uses a different bearing than the diaphragm, one is longer than the other. Might want to check this thread.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=373669 __________________ 1972 GMC Jimmy, 4WD, 454 CI, 350 Turbo, 4" lift, 35" tires The math teacher said my son "Bubba" could be a mathmatical genius. cause he's got 13 fingers!



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