10-17-2010, 10:56 PM | #1 |
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Frame Paint
Who has used a good frame paint/epoxy that you can recommend.
I am considering POR 15, Eastwood , or Summit...... Need to know Thanks |
10-18-2010, 12:07 AM | #2 |
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Re: Frame Paint
In 1985 I took mine down to metal where I could get to it without removing the cab (did remove the front clip and bed). I rattle can primed and painted it with 3 finish coats of Rustoleum Semi Black. It was my daily driver and saw plenty of off road use, snow and mud. It always got washed down good since I knew were the problem areas were. This time I took it down to bare metal. Where there was rust I used POR-15. Then urethane 2 part primer, then Nason Chassis Black (3 coats). I figure that will last for as long as I will and can easily be touched up.
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10-18-2010, 11:21 AM | #3 |
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Re: Frame Paint
I used POR15, it works well but makes a mess if you get it on your hands. Also if it's exposed to sunlight it turns grey unless you seal it with a top coat. For me it's the frame so I figure how much sun is it really going to get????
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10-18-2010, 01:58 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Frame Paint
Quote:
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10-18-2010, 02:03 PM | #5 |
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Re: Frame Paint
I use black 2K epoxy primer. You can now get it from Summit pretty cheap a gallon at a time, with reducer about 2 gallons sprayable for maybe $80 shipped? You spray it direct to metal and it's very tough, it will scratch but usually just the surface and not all the way to metal. There's always something else to grind, cut, add or touch up and powdercoat or POR-15 require too much planning for my taste.
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Last edited by LEEVON; 10-18-2010 at 02:06 PM. |
10-18-2010, 05:39 PM | #6 |
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Re: Frame Paint
Hey, for what it's worth I know a guy that has used Rustoleum Hammertone black on his '46 frame and it is WAY impressive looking.
In fact when I saw it I thought he'd had the frame blasted and powder coated...it's that good. He said the more he put on the more it looked powder coated. Not cheap, I think over $5 a can but for a rattle can approach it looked tremendous. Out here in California, rust is not that big an issue...usually! |
10-18-2010, 06:15 PM | #7 |
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Re: Frame Paint
I put it on in 1985 and took the truck off the road in 1998. Areas were it was protected and on inside of frame did fine. Springs, axles and parts of the bottom and outside of the frame needed touching up over the years, the truck was my daily driver. I put about 75K miles on it. Many thousands offroad on gravel and dirt roads, like below. From 20 feet it always looked good to me. All of my disassembly pics are on an old Video tape that I need to get converted to newer format so I can't post those.
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1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project Last edited by OrrieG; 10-18-2010 at 06:16 PM. |
10-18-2010, 10:24 PM | #8 |
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Re: Frame Paint
Folks,
Thanks. This is good info. I posted a similar question in my build thread, but really should have just discussed this here (I guess). I am considering the POR 15 just for the durability....but I want to spray it on (using a spray gun) but am a little unsure. Would be interesing to spray it on an then use the hammertone after that........wonder how that would work.....only problem is the hammertone top coat probably wouldn't resist fuel, etc..... |
10-18-2010, 11:04 PM | #9 |
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Re: Frame Paint
The thing that scares me about spraying POR-15 is that it is purported to have high polyiso's and if not done very safely could land you in a world of hurt.
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10-18-2010, 11:39 PM | #10 |
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Re: Frame Paint
The POR 15 brushes on very easy and flttens out like glass. I plabn on doing my frame with it. It is sandable and you can top coat if if you roughen it up a bit. Good stuff.
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10-18-2010, 11:44 PM | #11 |
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Re: Frame Paint
sorry to jack your thread, but I have POR15 and just got my truck back from blasting, have a small patch to weld in and "c" notch to cut in, then what? quick marine clean metal ready and brush on or just metal ready and brush on?
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10-19-2010, 03:25 AM | #12 |
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Re: Frame Paint
POR-15 sticks to any and everything. If you spray it any overspray on your concrete, walls, tool boxes, paint suit, mask, will be permanent. I don't know what you use to clean your gun but I would not use one I could not stand to toss. Go read the POR site info about over coating. They recommend overcoating it while still tacky. If it is going to be exposed is has to be over coated or the UV turns it a dull grey. I brushed all of mine so it was easy to control. If you get it on your skin, plan on it being there for 7-10 days until it falls off with the dead skin layer. If you google it there is a very funny message board from about 10 years ago about a guy that got some on his personal part and the attempts to get it off. Also once exposed to air it starts curing, I have not been successful in keeping it from hardening once the can is open so I only get the quantities I can use in one application. Luckily there is a local store that sells it for the same price as you can get it on line.
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1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread 1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver) Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project Last edited by OrrieG; 10-19-2010 at 03:27 AM. |
10-19-2010, 07:11 AM | #13 |
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Re: Frame Paint
Anybody have any issues with POR15 changing color? I hear if you don't top coat it, it will "whiten."
I have always used Tractor Supply tractor paint on my old Jeep frames and plan to do it again for my S10 under my '51. |
10-19-2010, 08:36 AM | #14 |
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Re: Frame Paint
I just used a product based in NY. Its called magnet paints. I first got there samples in the mail and BEAT THE CRAP out of it! Hammers, Screw drivers, anything I could get my hands on. I bent the hell out of the sample and NOTHING! No chips at all. Impressive stuff. I bought a gallon. Already applied 1 coat on a fully boxed s10 chassis and didnt even make a dent in the can. Plan on applying another 3 coats.
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10-19-2010, 09:52 AM | #15 |
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Re: Frame Paint
i used zero rust on my frame fairly cheap and easy to use. i had good results with it. you can also paint over this stuff to. comes it different colors too so your not limitted to black or silver. www.zero-rust.com
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10-19-2010, 09:57 PM | #16 |
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Re: Frame Paint
I went and got some equipment paint from the farm and ranch store when I did my 69 5 yrs ago still looks good.You spray it on with a cheepie spray gun I did a primer and 2 topcoats for about $25.
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10-23-2010, 10:49 PM | #17 |
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Re: Frame Paint
satin black rustoleum.........
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10-24-2010, 08:15 AM | #18 |
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Re: Frame Paint
YES, I brushed it on my frame. It looked great so I didn't topcoat, like said it's the frame, not going to see the sun. Wrong, My truck didn't live in the garage, and in a year my frame looked dull gray. Yes it was a 4x4 with 35's on it. I was not inpressed. Now I just sandblast, prime and paint, looks alot better down the road. So if you have to use POR 15 read and fallow the can, and top coat. IMO
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10-24-2010, 11:22 AM | #19 |
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Re: Frame Paint
por 15 if you dont want to prep a lot. Otherwise I would blast and paint the whole frame. Powdercoat is the best if you have the money IMO.
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10-24-2010, 11:37 AM | #20 |
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Re: Frame Paint
We have been a distributor for Bill Hirsch in Canada for years, after importing the products and using them personally for a number of years before that. It has the same problem as POR-15 like said before that it needs to be top coated but what we do is to spray the frame first with the black miracle paint, then top coat it with chassis black. We have been really happy with their products.
Last edited by 68gmcdually; 10-24-2010 at 11:39 AM. |
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