Quick Q's - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

apstguy · 06-18-2003, 11:50 PM

1. What is the hose running from the top of the axle for? A vent?

2. My driver's door is starting to sag & I have a new hinge pin/bushing kit. How do I install it? I know the basics, but I don't want to get stuck on something. The motor heads here have all the short cuts - no matter how redneck they are!

apstguy · 06-19-2003, 01:53 AM

TTT

ocbaud · 06-19-2003, 01:56 AM

the hose is to vent the axle casing.

and i would like to know the easiest way for the door kit too, i'm in need of mine fixed soon

**old Rusty C10** · 06-19-2003, 09:48 AM

the hose on the rear is a vent hose no need to worry about it as long as its clear of debris
i was told the easiest way to rebuild the hings is to take it off and work on a bench i never did it tho

apstguy · 06-19-2003, 03:42 PM

Well my truck has power windows and locks so that isn't an option to take the hinges off.

79BIG10 · 06-19-2003, 11:54 PM

What about loosening the hinges? Loosen them enough to shim enough then tighten back and check the play. then redo until correct.

mckpaul · 06-20-2003, 08:38 AM

Man, was hoping to see more input on the door hinges myself. I bought the pin/bushing kits too. The old pins are a PAIN to drive out, pressed in at the factory and that knarled edge being stuck in that one spot for over 20 years. I have power locks and windows too didn't want to take the door off. Besides, had the hinges loose on a door before. Another PAIN with enough slack there for up, down, in, out, left and right adjustment. Assuming the hinges are in the factory positions, you'd think just replacing the pins and bushings would put the door back exactly right, but there just isn't enough space in there to get a good straight impact to get the old pins out. I managed to do the bottom hinge, but now considering letting the body shop do it if I ever get it in for a paint job. They also sell the strike bar thing that goes on the frame at the auto store that has the teflon sleeve. This is easy to change and will help a little (once the door is closed of course)

**Captkaos** · 06-20-2003, 09:29 AM

I just propped my doors up on a board (or have a friend hold it and I pulled the top pin out and put new bushings/pin in. Then went to the bottom. I was a PITA by myself, but I got it done.

apstguy · 06-21-2003, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 79BIG10
What about loosening the hinges? Loosen them enough to shim enough then tighten back and check the play. then redo until correct.

Problem is it was adjusted 3 months ago and the door is starting to sag again. Hinge pins & bushings are just worn. I'll try it next week!

06-18-2003, 11:50 PM	#1
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,087	Quick Q's 1. What is the hose running from the top of the axle for? A vent? 2. My driver's door is starting to sag & I have a new hinge pin/bushing kit. How do I install it? I know the basics, but I don't want to get stuck on something. The motor heads here have all the short cuts - no matter how redneck they are! __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

06-19-2003, 01:53 AM	#2
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,087	TTT __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

06-19-2003, 09:48 AM	#4
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,310	the hose on the rear is a vent hose no need to worry about it as long as its clear of debris i was told the easiest way to rebuild the hings is to take it off and work on a bench i never did it tho __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

06-19-2003, 03:42 PM	#5
apstguy LED King Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,087	Well my truck has power windows and locks so that isn't an option to take the hinges off. __________________ Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32

06-19-2003, 11:54 PM	#6
79BIG10 I'm back with 2nd truck! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 3,774	What about loosening the hinges? Loosen them enough to shim enough then tighten back and check the play. then redo until correct. __________________ 1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson

06-19-2003, 01:56 AM	#3
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	the hose is to vent the axle casing. and i would like to know the easiest way for the door kit too, i'm in need of mine fixed soon

06-20-2003, 08:38 AM	#7
mckpaul Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Houston Posts: 300	Man, was hoping to see more input on the door hinges myself. I bought the pin/bushing kits too. The old pins are a PAIN to drive out, pressed in at the factory and that knarled edge being stuck in that one spot for over 20 years. I have power locks and windows too didn't want to take the door off. Besides, had the hinges loose on a door before. Another PAIN with enough slack there for up, down, in, out, left and right adjustment. Assuming the hinges are in the factory positions, you'd think just replacing the pins and bushings would put the door back exactly right, but there just isn't enough space in there to get a good straight impact to get the old pins out. I managed to do the bottom hinge, but now considering letting the body shop do it if I ever get it in for a paint job. They also sell the strike bar thing that goes on the frame at the auto store that has the teflon sleeve. This is easy to change and will help a little (once the door is closed of course) __________________ Paul 1984 Chevy C-10 LWB/305

06-20-2003, 09:29 AM	#8
Captkaos www.73-87chevytrucks.com Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 6,935	I just propped my doors up on a board (or have a friend hold it and I pulled the top pin out and put new bushings/pin in. Then went to the bottom. I was a PITA by myself, but I got it done. __________________ Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com



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