Disassembling Front Suspension

[rahatawa]

Got the rear suspension taken out and replaced this morning. Shocks, springs and track bar. My friend who is helping (machinist/welding instructor) and I (neither a machinist or a welder) pulled the front wheel off to start in on replacing the front suspension. It is bone stock up there and we are retaining the drum brakes. We both did a lot of head scratching and decided it was above our knowledge base. So I guess what I am asking for is a link or description of what bolts have to be removed to drop the upper and lower "A" shaped arms.

I know zero. Treat me as such. If we can't figure it out I will take it to a professional but the way I figure it the rest of you guys had to learn sometime. This could be when I learn it.

So what are the steps? Any help would be appreciated

[Clyde65]

Ist thing ya need to do is get it up on solid heavy duty jack stands. rent a spring compressor and lock the springs down. Look here at this exploded view and hopefully it will help you.

[Real_McCoy]

Lock the springs down before you release the tension on them or you may lose an apendage or more.

The best way to learn is to get in there and do it.

[daverod]

My springs did'nt have any pressure on them. Guess they were old. I used a grinder to cut the u bolts. The new u bolts are bigger you'll have to drill the holes out bigger.

[rahatawa]

Now Clyde... You steered me right once so are you suggesting this time that I rent this spring compressor. Compress the original to the point it sneaks out. The do that in reverse with the new lowered spring? If so the this is much easier than I thought.

I am guessing though, compress to relieve tension then remove the spindle/brake. After that the arms will split like... Well they will spread open. (Gotta keep it clean) then spring falls out. Then replace with the new and put the spindle back in.

Please say it's option 1. Also can I rent this from say NAPA?

Daverod my rears didn't have any tension but that may be due to the fork lift we had holding up the rear of the truck
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[Clyde65]

2nd idea is better, take the tension off, take spindle out via upper/lower ball joints, remove spring. I would never intentionally steer anyone wrong. BTW I would also replace everything while your there too. it is $ well spent.

I would rent one, actually I did, but I got mine from Oreilly, I think it was around $40 for 2 days rental.

[daverod]

$40. No wonder I did'nt bother with getting the compressor. Probably a good idea. I've just never done it. I'm a adrenaline junkie. Could just put another jack under the arm, cut the ubolts and then let the jack down. I would be surprised if there was much pressure. But hay I've been surprised before.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...moving+springs

[ruffrida2005]

I agree with Dave. If you have another jack put it under the control arm and bust the upper balljoint loose. There probably isn't much pressure on it at all.

[Big Fenders]

Originally Posted by daverod

$40. No wonder I did'nt bother with getting the compressor. Probably a good idea. I've just never done it. I'm a adrenaline junkie. Could just put another jack under the arm, cut the ubolts and then let the jack down. I would be surprised if there was much pressure. But hay I've been surprised before.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...moving+springs

I'd do that too but also put a chain and lock or bolt through the spring and arm to secure possible flying parts..
Bob

[protrash64]

I've taken a few apart and I have yet to compress a spring. One actually needs the tension to help pop the balljoints in my experience.

Pull the wheel, loosen the tie rod nut, and smack it with the BFH. Once the tie rod is loose, pull your cotters on the upper or lower ball joint. Loosen the castle nut, do not remove, and either smack the spindle or use a pickle fork with an air hammer to pop it loose. The castle nut will keep anything from flying apart. Jack up the lower a-arm and remove the nut and then release the tension on the coil. You may have to wrestle it out but it will come out.

If you need to destroy a balljoint, I would choose the upper as they are not pressed in like the lower. They can be changed in 5 minutes if bolted in previously; the worst case is drilling/grinding off original rivets.

Good luck.

[Captainfab]

I agree

This is the way I've done several.......

Originally Posted by protrash64

I've taken a few apart and I have yet to compress a spring. One actually needs the tension to help pop the balljoints in my experience.

Pull the wheel, loosen the tie rod nut, and smack it with the BFH. Once the tie rod is loose, pull your cotters on the upper or lower ball joint. Loosen the castle nut, do not remove, and either smack the spindle or use a pickle fork with an air hammer to pop it loose. The castle nut will keep anything from flying apart. Jack up the lower a-arm and remove the nut and then release the tension on the coil. You may have to wrestle it out but it will come out.

If you need to destroy a balljoint, I would choose the upper as they are not pressed in like the lower. They can be changed in 5 minutes if bolted in previously; the worst case is drilling/grinding off original rivets.

Good luck.

[rahatawa]

Gentlemen we have success. I am here to say that if I can do this anyone can. Problem spot to point out...

1. I hate cotter pins. They all broke and were mangled (by me) before i was able to punch them out the other side.

2. The pickle fork? No idea what one is but I think I used one today. Big tapered fork with a spot for the BFH on the other end. Works like a dream!

3. Lowering Springs can in fact lift the front end of a truck if the original springs were both broken.

4. Finally, the front shocks were hateful. Everything went well until these. I used CPP and Jeff was great but the bushings are too large to fit into the lower shock mount. Easy fix... pedestal grinder. The reinforcing brackets had to be...massaged and the collar at the top of the shock just below the mount had to be "clearanced." A bit strange that in all of this the piddly shocks were the difficult part.

Advice for other non-mechanics who might happen upon this thread. For the fronts: Its easier with two people but the car jack under the drum idea is brilliant. other than that read what everyone else wrote. They are right. Ha. on with the pictures. Again thanks guys for the advice and encouragement. Wouldn't have tried unless you guys said to. 3/5 drop waiting on school to start back so the kids at the Vo/Tech can help build a flat bed for it.

oh and get a forklift... so handy


before


after

[Clyde65]

Congrats man! feels good when you do it yourself right?

[Allensracing]

for others doing this, I am going to tell how I do it. this is what works best for me.

first I remove outer tie rods. next is the lower ball joint. I take the nut clear off, and them put it back on so the head is flush with the top of the threads. I have a long bar I put on the top of the lower ball joint, and I smack it to get it to break loose. once its loose, I support the lower control arm and take the nut completely off.next remove the brake line. then I remove the two bolts holding in the upper control arm and that gets the upper arm, sindle and everything off. I then remove the top ball joint nut, and I use the same long skinny punch to remove the upper ball joint. I lay the spindle on its side and I have a long skinny punch that I stick through the hole for the lower ball joint hole in the spindle, and it helps hold the punch in place while I knock out the upper balljoint. then you should easily be able to reach the nuts for the u-bolts holding in the lower control arm.

my method allows the ball joints to be removed without damaging them, in case you need to reuse them. pickle forks are great, but they ruin the rubber seals and sometimes you really have to beat on them.

[rahatawa]

your right clyde. it does feel good. Thats not to say I'm not going to let the high schoolers cut all that 3" channel for the bed. and square it up and weld it for me. It will feel good to encourage their learning too. Ha!

Allensracing your right about the pickle fork requiring some effort and being destructive. My spindles came off the ball joints super easy so I didn't have to worry about that. And as for the tie rods... well the rubber seals are 46 or so years old. its a mess under there so after the bed and it is road legal (stupid mississippi and their inspection stickers) The next order will be steering box rebuild and a rebuild of the tie rods etc under there to try and tighten up the steering with new bushings/rubber bit things. I haven't looked into doing it thus all the names I use are made up.

This is a big step though and I am super excited. May be time to go play in photoshop and see what she will look like. edit: its rough and you have to squint and want to see it but.. i like this idea

[Allensracing]

your lucky to have a forklift in your toolbox!

looks like your doing good so far

[jimmydean]

The best part of an old truck is there is more than one thing a BFH will fix on it.

[protrash64]

rahatawa.......glad it came apart for ya, sometimes they fight back.

[rahatawa]

Thanks guys I am super excited. going to add some of these pics to my desolate to this point build thread