Warning lights to 91 cluster

[jkade]

I am putting a 6.0 in my m1009 and it has the warning lights. I have a cluster from a 91 suburban that I saved and I think I have the module for the speedometer to work. I am swapping to a 241 tcase so I will have vss. Has anyone ever swapped out the warning light cluster to a gauge cluster. I did this in my 67 but I am not sure if it will be the same.

Thanks!!!!

[48cj2a]

I'm not there yet but doing it real soon. I just swapped 6.2s and plan to use the gauge cluster from the donor truck. If it does not plug n play I plan to swap dash harnesses too.

[Jonboy]

You should be fine as long as you use the correct senders for the gauges.

[48cj2a]

Do you think I could do it too. The 6.2 has the gauge senders including the wiring harness. I was hoping I could also just swap clusters.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

You should be fine as long as you use the correct senders for the gauges.

Buying the senders will be cheaper than a set of aftermarket gauges too I am going to get on steelsoliders and see if anyone has done it. I did a search on here but I am still not sure if the pinouts are the same.

[48cj2a]

That was my thought and why I'm prepared to swap dash wiring too.

[jkade]

I guess I answered my own question or a guy on steelsoliders did....lol

Here is a breakdown of how to wire in a civilian dash board / gauge cluster with oil, temp and two volt gauges.

First identifying the wires:

2 brown wires- Gen 1 & 2
Gray- Low coolant
Pink & black Hot from fuse box
Tan&white- Brake warning
Tan- oil
Black- Ground
Brown&red- Gen 2 relay
Dk. Green- Water Temp
White- 4WD light
Tan- Dash lights
Orange_ Hot, 24Volt, power feed for 2nd volt gauge, and/or 2nd gen. light.
Dk. Blue- Right Turn
Lt. Blue_ Left Turn
Yellow_ Seat belt light

Here's where to move them to in the dashboard / gauge cluster connector, by the numbers on the connector.
1. Hi beam
2. Dash Lights
3. 12 Volt gauge ground
4. 12 Volt gauge input, (should be only when switch is on).
5. Oil sender wire.
6. Positive / Hot
7. clock, leave empty if don't have a clock.
8. Clock also.
9. Temp sensor switch.
10. Positive / Hot
11. Right turn signal
12. Left turn signal
13. warning / dummy light ground
14. Warning / dummy light ground
15. Warning / dummy light ground
16. Positive / Hot
17. Warning / dummy light ground
18. Fuel sender wire.

#'s 1, 2, 11, & 12 stay the same as they were, some others may also, I don't recall.

If your truck your taking your donor gauges from was 4wd, it will have a 4wd. indicator in position for # 15, low cool will go in # 14, and brake into # 17.

To wire in a voltage gauge for the 24 volt battery, take voltage into the voltage gauge from the 24volt bus bar, and ground it out from the gauge to a 12 volt positive point. The reading will be high, but within the scale of the gauge.
To position the gauge in the factory gauge position for the clock takes some work. I found a factory gauge face that fit across the opening. I removed the gauge working parts on it and installed the gauge working parts from a voltage gauge to that face with silicone. I used a white after market gauge face to match the other gauges. I then reattached the needle to indicate the correct position at zero power. If using a factory voltage gauge for the donor parts gauge, you need to solder a wire to the correct metal post, and use a nut to hold the other wire to the correct aluminum post. If you look at the factory gauge in the cluster you will see which ones to attach the wire to. You will also need to do some cutting. Remove the area behind where the gauge will go to allow the wires to come through. Also remove the covered area where the clock would have gone. I used a cutter in a Dremel tool for this and it came out neatly done.

Hope this helps someone save a couple days figuring this out like I just spent.

Edits: You will need new sending units for the two gauges, oil and temp.
You can put indicator lights for the two generator wires in some where else and run extensions off the two brown and brown / red generator wires to them, thus still having the two dummy lights.
Wiring the Generator dummy lights:
#1 Gen. light. Feed it 12volts, and ground it to the brown generator wire.
#2 Gen. light. Feed it 24volts and ground it to the brown/red wire that goes to the Generator #2 relay. This relay should be powered on whenever the key is on. It is located below the stock radio opening, near the diagnostic plug. There are two regular relays there, the #2 generator relay and the original voltage gauge relay. There will also be a heavy duty relay, this is the starting relay.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

That was my thought and why I'm prepared to swap dash wiring too.

Maybe that will help you too. Good luck!!

[48cj2a]

Let me know how yours goes in the event you are done before me and I'll do the same. Only difference I'm eliminating the second Alt and going entirely 12v on the starting system.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

Let me know how yours goes in the event you are done before me and I'll do the same. Only difference I'm eliminating the second Alt and going entirely 12v on the starting system.

Yeah, I am ditching the whole motor and going with a GENIII motor.... 6.2's are weak!!!! I hope to have mine done in the next 2 months.

Here is a pic of mine.

[48cj2a]

Love the lift and Hummer wheels - not many have two sets either.

How much lift to clear the 37 Wrangler Radials?

I plan a 5.3 or 6.0 in the future but have not decided if it will be in the CUCV or my V3500 (former USAF Crew)

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

Love the lift and Hummer wheels - not many have two sets either.

How much lift to clear the 37 Wrangler Radials?

I plan a 5.3 or 6.0 in the future but have not decided if it will be in the CUCV or my V3500 (former USAF Crew)

That is just 5" under it and there is plent of room for them.... they only measure 36" tall. I would love to have a crew!!!!! Put a GENIII in both of them, should only cost about 8K

[48cj2a]

This is my last lifted truck and its been over 3 decades since I owed one...My 79 GMC Jimmy CIRCA 1983 or 84....

[48cj2a]

What wheel spacers did you use to get the hummer wheels to work?

[jkade]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

What wheel spacers did you use to get the hummer wheels to work?

I got them off ebay, they are 2" and I can't remember which brand they are. 2" is what you will need. That was a good looking ol' k5!!

[48cj2a]

Thanks, 3" body - 6" Skyjacker lifts - 40" Gumbo Monster Mudders, Freshly rebuilt 4bolt 355/350/203 but my drawback - 3.08s

Loved the truck and really miss it today.

[jkade]

I sat down while watching tv with both clusters and traced the circuits and figured out what is what on both... several wires will have to be swapped around but I figured that. I just wonder about the senders now for oil, temp, and volts ( will I need new pigtails)?

[jkade]

Got my mock up motor sitting in there

[48cj2a]

Coooool!

[jkade]

http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...ge-wiring.html

There is a excel ss with the pinouts in that thread... maybe it will help someone else.

[Jonboy]

on my LT1 truck, I put the VSS signal output from the PCM directly to the pin on the cluster. I'm not sure what happened to my notes, but it was really easy. GM used the same colors of wire for years, so that helps when you are repinning the cluster.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

on my LT1 truck, I put the VSS signal output from the PCM directly to the pin on the cluster. I'm not sure what happened to my notes, but it was really easy. GM used the same colors of wire for years, so that helps when you are repinning the cluster.

I just wish I knew what pin it was or had the plug from the 91 that I hauled to scrap that I could have used the gas tank from as well

[Jonboy]

Seems like it was in the middle, maybe #13 or #14. On the 91, it actually goes to the DRAC first. THe newer PCM has the DRAC built in. I printed the wiring diagrams off of autozone's website, and traced the wiring from there. They have a wiring diagram for a 91 R/V body, which all have the electric cluster.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Seems like it was in the middle, maybe #13 or #14. On the 91, it actually goes to the DRAC first. THe newer PCM has the DRAC built in. I printed the wiring diagrams off of autozone's website, and traced the wiring from there. They have a wiring diagram for a 91 R/V body, which all have the electric cluster.

Thanks for the info!!

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Seems like it was in the middle, maybe #13 or #14. On the 91, it actually goes to the DRAC first. THe newer PCM has the DRAC built in. I printed the wiring diagrams off of autozone's website, and traced the wiring from there. They have a wiring diagram for a 91 R/V body, which all have the electric cluster.

I checked those diagrams and they don't show the one to the speedo