help-i think i wrecked my hubs

[mustardjimmy71]

So i did what every guy does when he gets a new 4x4 and used it. Unfortunately i didnt fully disengage the driver side hub. After driving at highway speed i noticed it was making some noise. I had to use vice grips to get it do disengage.

I bought some new warn gold hubs. What do i need to know to put them on?

1971 jimmy dana 44 stock blue plastick hubs

or should i 2wd it haha jk

[SeventyOne]

I don't know that you can mess up the hub leaving it engaged and running at highway speed - its designed to do that...

But to install the new hubs I am pretty sure you just remove the old ones and follow the instructions to put in the new ones. Really shouldn't be anything to it.

[rayfinseats]

You may need a special socket for the hubs, maybe. Otherwise it's pretty easy.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I don't know that you can mess up the hub leaving it engaged and running at highway speed - its designed to do that....

I think he's saying he tried 4 wheelin' with one hub engaged and one not fully engaged.

Did you have front drive? Usually the wheels won't engage unless both hubs are engaged. I geuss there could be a point where one could be engaged enough to give front drive but not enough to keep from doing some damage.
Either way,when installing the new hubs just follow instructions carefully. You can use a cold chisel to turn the spindle nuts but a spindle wrench is cheap and more civilized.

[mustardjimmy71]

i was on the highway in 2wd passenger side disengaged and the driver side somewhere in the middle

[special-K]

Have you looked at it? Why do you think it's damaged?

[Bishops Trucks]

I don't think you hurt it but the best way is to pull the hub off and look. Installing new hubs isn't hard, like Tim said, a chisel works to turn the spindal nut. lay the old one out in an exploded view on the ground as you take it out. The new hub should have all of the same parts (maybe slightly differant). Just read the directions and don't forget to throw some grease in there.

[royo]

Theres probably going to be two snap rings in there. when you get the hub off. One on the axle. the other will be on the hub . If its nasty in there you might want to pull it apart an re-grease everything.

[SeventyOne]

I really would argue against a cold chisel to turn the spindle nuts - too easy to slip and goober up the threads then you've got bigger problems. Just get the spindle socket -they're at best $15. Use the right tool for the right job.

[mustardjimmy71]

i was thinking something was wrong or worn out cause it requires vice grips to disengage it. Is this normal?

i could use one finger on my ford ranger warn hubs

[1969K10]

i've got 1 old hub, and 1 hub that has been replaced before i got the truck. the old one gets difficult to turn every couple of years. I take it off, clean it up, put a bunch of new grease in it, and it's good to go for a couple years.

you might try cleaning it before replacing it

[mustardjimmy71]

how tight should the spindle nut be on a dana 44?

[special-K]

The knob should not require a tool to turn. They can be tight from lack of routine service/dirt/too much grease. I use oil to lube my outer hubs and only grease on the bearings and inside the rotor hub. I suggest just removing,cleaning,inspecting,and if all looks good reinstalling.
The spindle nuts need to be snug enough to not allow play (I do the push/pull at 12 & 6) and to allow the wheel to spin freely. You have to watch getting too tight. When you feel you are close,take it slow and keep checking play/free spin until it is snugged up. The new grease can give a false feeling of snug,so check well for play/spin. If it's gets tightened too far it will crush the bearing. Yet,just a bit to snug,like just enough so the wheel has resistance,it won't hurt. Then,you can back it off just enough to allow free spin. Just put on your touchy feely hat and you'll be fine.

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I really would argue against a cold chisel to turn the spindle nuts - too easy to slip and goober up the threads then you've got bigger problems. Just get the spindle socket -they're at best $15. Use the right tool for the right job.

There was a time you couldn't find spindle nut sockets very easily. 4wds weren't that common and you were more on your own. For the sake of argument I'll say I bet I serviced more front axles using a cold chisel without a problem than most anyone on here has used a socket. I suggest someone with skills so poor as to not be able to control a hammer & chisel on a nut with huge notched edges stay away from servicing a front hub assembly. My first 4wd had a busted outer axle shaft when I bought it. I watched one of the most thorough and talented mechanics use this method to disassemble and reassemble my hubs and felt I learned a useful technique. I only bought a spindle socket in more recent years because,yes,it's best to use the right tool for the right job. For me it was a matter of it's just plain faster and easier. But,it's always good to know an alternative when the right tool isn't present.

[jltait]

The spindle nuts on a D44 should be around 75ib-ft IIRC (note 10 bolts with auto-locking hubs require a much higher torque). There is a torquing procedure for each model of truck - I would follow it. I have often town apart these axles where it was obvious the previous owner performed a home repair only to find the nut loose and the Hub/rotor were now being held in place by the brake caliper. Conversely I have never torn apart my own (or others that I know follow torquing procedures) and found the nut loose. The chisel/punch method will also damage the nut so a correct spindle nut will not fit correctly. IF you find yours is damaged Napa has always sold spindle nut kits in the past. The lockout hub R&R is pretty straight forward but if you are a first timer a good manual will be helpful. Most any tool box will have tools that will work in a pinch but for best result I suggest the following: Allen wrenches(reqired),external circlip pliers(u can get by without by using two quite small flat blade screw drivers but not easily), and finally i use a cheap metal butter knife for the inside snap ring. Bend a small hook on the end of the knife with vise grips shove it underneath the ring and use the hook to pull, works very good.
JLT

[SeventyOne]

According to the Spicer Dana 44 manual:

Torque the inner nut to 50lb/ft, spin the hub to seat the bearing, back off the nut 90* or 1/4 turn maximum, place on lockwasher (tighten inner nut if it won't line up), then torque outer nut to a minimum of 50lb/ft.

I have this as a PDF if anyone needs it.

[jltait]

SeventyOne,
Beautiful! that is the exact sequence I recall. I could not find my Hanes manual when I replied first time. An extremely good point in SeventyOne's reply, beyond the need to torque the spindle lock nut....a torque wrench and spindle socket are required to get the proper seating and pre-load on the wheel bearings on the inside nut as well. The booger is always getting the washer seated on the dimple of the inner nut. Keep in mind sometimes flipping it over may help align it with the spindle slot/nut dimple.
JLT

[OrrieG]

If you decide to change the hubs, keep the old blue part, from what I have read here it is a pretty rare part to find and is not reproduced.

[mustardjimmy71]

thaks seventyone. thats the main part i was worried about. I didnt want to use the chisel method cause the smallest hammer i have is a 4LB.

orrieg- dont worry ive kept all the crappy hard to find stock stuff ive modified. I apreciate original parts but i like new stuff that is more reliable and performs better. The warns are more reliable and not faded blue, so those stockers are goin in the pile with the points dizzy, and direct drive no clutch fan.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mustardjimmy71

thaks seventyone. thats the main part i was worried about. I didnt want to use the chisel method cause the smallest hammer i have is a 4LB.

orrieg- dont worry ive kept all the crappy hard to find stock stuff ive modified. I apreciate original parts but i like new stuff that is more reliable and performs better. The warns are more reliable and not faded blue, so those stockers are goin in the pile with the points dizzy, and direct drive no clutch fan.

A man of my own heart! I never throw anything that might be usable for parts away either. It works out, I had a stash of 60's and early 70's vw aftermarket parts and books from that phase of my life that I sold in 2006 to finance stuff for this build. I made almost 1K on stuff that had been in boxes in case I got bug fever again.