rear shocks didnt fit??

[jasonroman]

talked to the guy who sold me the kit. asked about which holes i needed to use in relation to flip kit. he told me it didnt matter as long as axle is centered in wheel well
didnt get a chance today to get truck up and under it. rather not do it in 15-20 degrees outside.
anyhow, today i got the belt on and then took truck for a ride and gassed it up.
took a quick look at the truck on the way in. and looks like the wheel sits a bit towards the front. lets say the wheel centered would give me 6 inches from tire to fender on both sides.....
mines looking like 4 on the front side and 8 on back side of the truck.
not sure if my explanation makes any sense....

can anyone with a flip kit post a pic of the rear wheels. you know so i can look and see how and where the tires sit.

thanks again.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

talked to the guy who sold me the kit. asked about which holes i needed to use in relation to flip kit. he told me it didnt matter as long as axle is centered in wheel well

Yes, you can use either hole of the flip bracket & it could technically be correct.
That being said, it does matter because that's how the rear gets re-centered. Verifiy the rear end is sitting on the correct hole of the flip bracket (the housing should be offset to the rear of the pin on the leafs). You should be 'even' in the wheel well opening.

[jasonroman]

thanks once again for reply

the housing should be offset to the rear of the pin on the leafs

forgive my stupidity, but do you mean that the housing is the bracket that axle sits on? and that there should be more of the bracket on the back side of the pin on leaf pack? if thats the case, i may have wasted a day the other day. i thought lolife had said it needed to be towards front. again mine have 2 holes.
guess ill check it again in the morning.
think i can just loosen the bolts a bit and get it done? the other day i thought i was doing the right thing, so afterwords i cut the bolts down some.

You should be 'even' in the wheel well opening
this mean after the braket is in the right place, and flip is done RIGHT...
that the axle will be centered?

again sorry for all the questions about the same job... everyone says simple job. and for me its not quite that simple.

hopefully ill get it squared away and then ill be done with dumb questions...for a bit

dude that sold me kit said i would not have to take everything apart in the rear to do the notch.
plan to try the notch this weekend.



the 85 when i first brought it home. rear wheel kinda looks like its towards the front, no?


pic of my old 82. this one was lowered when i got truck. loved the way it road. hoping i can dial this one in

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

thanks once again for reply

the housing should be offset to the rear of the pin on the leafs

forgive my stupidity, but do you mean that the housing is the bracket that axle sits on? and that there should be more of the bracket on the back side of the pin on leaf pack? if thats the case, i may have wasted a day the other day. i thought lolife had said it needed to be towards front. again mine have 2 holes.guess ill check it again in the morning.
think i can just loosen the bolts a bit and get it done? the other day i thought i was doing the right thing, so afterwords i cut the bolts down some.

You should be 'even' in the wheel well opening
this mean after the braket is in the right place, and flip is done RIGHT...
that the axle will be centered?

again sorry for all the questions about the same job... everyone says simple job. and for me its not quite that simple.

hopefully ill get it squared away and then ill be done with dumb questions...for a bit

dude that sold me kit said i would not have to take everything apart in the rear to do the notch.
plan to try the notch this weekend.

I guess I can't explain it.
One more time,.... and then someone else is going to have to give it a try.

1) Axle needs to be rearward of the leaf spring centering pin.
2) The saddle has 1 offset hole.(*yours has two).
*the hole that is offset needs to go to the front of the truck.
*this will move the rearend rearward.
*this should center the wheel in the wheel opening.
*this should pull the trans yoke slightly rearward so it doesn't bottom out in the tail shaft housing and cause damage to the transmission.


Maybe you have posted pics that I can't see on my work computer,... sorry if that's the case.

[jasonroman]

ok then, seems ive bothered you
ill figure it out
thanks for help thus far.

[lolife99]

No bother.
I just can't find a single picture on the internet to explain the position it goes in.
I will keep looking.

Edit:
The bracket circled,... what I call the "flip kit axle saddle",... would install (just like it is shown) on the driver's side of the truck.
* hole toward's the front of the truck.

I assume you have two holes, with one in the exact center of the saddle and one that is offset approximately 1".

Offset hole goes toward the front of the truck and sets directly on the leaf spring centering pin.
Don't use the hole in the exact center of your bracket for anything.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The bracket circled,... what I call the "flip kit axle saddle",... would install (just like it is shown) on the driver's side of the truck.
* hole toward's the front of the truck.

I assume you have two holes, with one in the exact center of the saddle and one that is offset approximately 1".

Offset hole goes toward the front of the truck and sets directly on the leaf spring centering pin.
Don't use the hole in the exact center of your bracket for anything.

x2.

[jasonroman]

ok. thanks.
guess ill be moving things around in the morning. dude mighta had it right. dont remember. but i know now i have the offset hole un-used, facing the front of the truck.

[jasonroman]

well just got done. cant feel my toes at all.
shocks are now where they need to be. rears in rear, and fronts actually on.
rear end. had to undo and and move. now i have the saddle where i think it should be, well where lolife told me.
took it for a ride, think i might need to re-align it. and def need the notch done.
only have a little bit of space between frame and bed...
shoulda kept the stock shackles till notch was done....
oh well,
thanks for help guys. truck will stay parked till notch gets done.

quick question. rear tires give me a bit of a problem when i put them back on. like i need to lift bed in order to get the wheel in the well. and its a bit of a struggle.
normal? figure if i get a flat on the road, im in trouble.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

quick question. rear tires give me a bit of a problem when i put them back on. like i need to lift bed in order to get the wheel in the well. and its a bit of a struggle.
normal? figure if i get a flat on the road, im in trouble.

That's normal when lowering more than 4" in the rear. The frame needs to be lifted & blocked (jack-stands) high enough to allow room for working once the rear is lifted off the ground to remove the wheels/tires.

[jasonroman]

ok thanks. was hoping it wasnt a sign that i did something wrong

[jasonroman]

couple pics of the front end.
took em before swapping out the shocks the other day.
today im planning on attempting the much needed notch.

[jasonroman]

got the notch put in today. 3 hours.... not too bad.
best of all....
cut thru my brake line!!!!

do they sell these lines anywhere or do i need to tow truck to a shop now?

[fishingjred73]

Mine has a union under the rear of the cab take the old line off from there back to where it hooks to the rubber line that attaches to the rear end. Then take the 2 pieces to your local parts house and get a new piece of line long enough to replace your cut piece. It'll be straight and you'll have to bend it but you can get it with the ends already on it.

[jasonroman]

thanks for reply.
i looked and noticed a union, near cab. at first i thought it was 1 big long piece of piping, but then saw union. think from around cab area to axle area.
if im not mistaken, around the axle it connects to a different style of piping that goes above rear end.
so if i take from union to union off and bring it to say, autozone, i can get the piping tomorrow?
if so, can you tell me what needs to be done after install...bleeding brakes.
never done it.
its kinda my first time trying the hands on thing.
not much of a mechanic, but im trying.... and failing as i go.
thanks for any help

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

thanks for reply.
i looked and noticed a union, near cab. at first i thought it was 1 big long piece of piping, but then saw union. think from around cab area to axle area.
if im not mistaken, around the axle it connects to a different style of piping that goes above rear end.
so if i take from union to union off and bring it to say, autozone, i can get the piping tomorrow?
if so, can you tell me what needs to be done after install...bleeding brakes.
never done it.
its kinda my first time trying the hands on thing.
not much of a mechanic, but im trying.... and failing as i go.
thanks for any help

It's not failing, it's called a 'learning curve'. Now you know before cutting anything make sure there are no wires, brake lines, or fuel lines close by. You can't improve your skills if you don't try.....

Did you cut through a hard line or rubber line?

[jasonroman]

well i did the driver side first. and i saw a rubber line there...thought i read that there was only one line to be aware of. so when i saw the line on the driver side, i figured start there, be carefull of line. and that side went ok.
first cut was a little small. but after a little trim job, i was good on that side.
when i got to the other side. i figured, cut a bit bigger, but didnt think to look, since i thought i read, carefull of one line in rail.
guess if i had some sense i woulda checked or figured i have brakes on both sides....lesson learned as you say.
the line i cut was a hard line. not the soft one.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

well i did the driver side first. and i saw a rubber line there...thought i read that there was only one line to be aware of. so when i saw the line on the driver side, i figured start there, be carefull of line. and that side went ok.
first cut was a little small. but after a little trim job, i was good on that side.
when i got to the other side. i figured, cut a bit bigger, but didnt think to look, since i thought i read, carefull of one line in rail.
guess if i had some sense i woulda checked or figured i have brakes on both sides....lesson learned as you say.
the line i cut was a hard line. not the soft one.

Rear brake lines should be one main supply line to a junction where it switches to a rubber flex line that goes to the rear housing. The rubber line terminates into a 'T' junction where it splits off to hard lines going to the left & right rear drums.

I know on my 68 & 74 Chevy's, the rear supply line was routed down the pass rail. So sounds like you got the supply line. Three choices: 1) get another used line from a wrecked truck in a wrecking yard; 2) order a new 'pre-bent' line from an aftermarket source (Inline Tubing etc...); or 3) if there's enough slack, you can cut the line nice & square w/a tubing cutter (vs. the unplanned cut it already has) & flare each side to install a union where it was cut.

These trucks commonly use unions on the brake lines so adding an additional one wouldn't be a problem or safety concern if done properly. If you don't have the tools, you can remove both pieces of the line & take it to a mechanic that does brake work or a hydraulic line comany in your area to do the necessary flares to properly seal a union fitting.

[jasonroman]

well i went and picked up some line and fittings, rented a bender and flairing tool.
my flairs aint coming out soo good. so now i need a new coupling and need to figure out the double flair thing. mine are not looking like the old piping looks.
bends ill deal with when i get there. bent the pipe up kinda close. but need to get the flairs right before bothering with bends.
hopefully tomorrow ill pick up coupling and figure out the double flair.

then ill take a shot at bleeding brakes. first time for everything.

on the suspension note....do my shocks need to go in a specific direction? or not? not sure if i have em in backwards.

thanks again guys for replies and advice. be lost without you guys.

[cableguy0]

What kind of flare tool are you trying to use? A lot of the cheapies dont work. It doesnt matter whos hands they are in they just suck. You need to use the die as you guide for how much line to leave sticking out of the clamp before you try to flare the line. Did you kit come with instructions? Heres a good write up without me writing a book. http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...etool/ft-1.htm

[jasonroman]

thanks for reply man.... thought you were gone
anyway, the kit i rented looks just like the kit they use in the link.
directions are not too clear. and it said nothing about after using black bit to take out and got back into it for a second time.
guess ill give this a shot and hope for better results.

[jasonroman]

well the link helped alot.
showed me what i was doing wrong. and now i just finished. brake line is on and not leaking.
brakes are bleed. not sure if i did the greatest job on bleeding brakes but the light is off and truck stops. hope all is good.

took truck for a ride. feels 100 times better than before the notch.

wanted to say thanks to all you guys for reply to this thread. helped me alot.
i know i asked the same questions 30 times in 50 different ways. but hey in the end. i got it done. would still be no where right now if it werent for you guys.

thanks again

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jasonroman

well the link helped alot.
showed me what i was doing wrong. and now i just finished. brake line is on and not leaking.
brakes are bleed. not sure if i did the greatest job on bleeding brakes but the light is off and truck stops. hope all is good.

took truck for a ride. feels 100 times better than before the notch.

wanted to say thanks to all you guys for reply to this thread. helped me alot.
i know i asked the same questions 30 times in 50 different ways. but hey in the end. i got it done. would still be no where right now if it werent for you guys.

thanks again

Now you're ready for the next project!

[jasonroman]

well i noticed after swaping out front shocks, now my wheel is off. think i need another alignment. which kinda sucks. 100 bucks out the window.
does direction of shocks matter??
next i gotta try and get to and change the oil pressure sending unit.
not sure if mines bad or not, but guage reads real low at all times.
then need to get behind dash to change lights. real real dim at night inside the truck.
after the little things are done, id like to change out carb, and intake mani.
think i need to take it somewhere to get a cam put in. not sure. never did any of it.
well, one thing at a time.
thanks again for the help man