Ok today I got the bad news then more bad news

[kristian_dancer]

I recently have been working on my C20 which has had a dually conversion.

I have had a small breaking issue (they grab pretty aggressivly) and I was hopeing for a minor repair.

Turns out the rear seals have been leaking and I need new drums, shoes and rebuild kit. $629 + tax. Fronts looked ok whoopee for the small good news.

It was also discovered I need a lower ball joint $150 +tax oh and that will need an alignement when we install it add $79. The shoucks look bad also $299 + tax.

Only went in for a oil change and a brake adjustment

I had just spent all morning wrestling with a window winder install and was hopeing to find out what the damn check engine light was coming on for when I go over 50.


And so coming to the point I have looked everywhere under the dash I have no obd1 socket to short to read the check engine code has anyone got any idea how the hell I find out why the check engine light is coming on.

It's a 5.7 and for some strange reason the oil filler has an extended tube and its on the right hand side of the engine. The books all show the filler on the left? Ideas anyone?

I could do with a little good news today as Mabel (thats what I named her) has been kicking my ass all day!

Thanks for any help offered.

[71swb4x4]

First of all, what you have is one shops opinion of the work that needs to be done. Whether or not it needs to be done is another story. If you absolutely can't do it yourself, take it to another shop and see what they thing. If you can do it yourself, take a look and see what you find.

Drum brakes are pretty easy to DIY.

Ball joint can be a little tricky, but not impossible.

Shocks are very easy as a DIY.

Oil filler could be as simple as someone changing valve covers at one time, although I have seen a lot on the right side.

[bikes&bowties]

I am do disk brake conversion right mow for about $250 dollars. All simple bolt on stuff and a dope mod to boot.

Ball joints are about $30 a pickle fork can be borrowed and the skills are priceless.

Shocks are about $25 each for some cheapish ones.

The check engine light is one bulb removal away
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[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by bikes&bowties

I am do disk brake conversion right mow for about $250 dollars. All simple bolt on stuff and a dope mod to boot.

A simple bolt on disc conversion for the rear of a dually? Tell us more!!

[bikes&bowties]

Missed the dually conversion part. Damn! I saw c20 and it would be simple.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Restrorob]

Did the guy have a jar of Vaseline on the counter when he told you all this ?

[kristian_dancer]

Originally Posted by bikes&bowties

I am do disk brake conversion right mow for about $250 dollars. All simple bolt on stuff and a dope mod to boot.

Ball joints are about $30 a pickle fork can be borrowed and the skills are priceless.

Shocks are about $25 each for some cheapish ones.

The check engine light is one bulb removal away
Posted via Mobile Device

If only you knew how many vehicles I have thought that about ! Great comment!
I had hoped when I bought this that there would be none to deal with.

[kristian_dancer]

Originally Posted by bikes&bowties

Missed the dually conversion part. Damn! I saw c20 and it would be simple.
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah im not so lucky, seals and all the other crap housing removal new drum install, I feel this is a bit beyond my meager talents.

[kristian_dancer]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

Did the guy have a jar of Vaseline on the counter when he told you all this ?

Actually in a some ways I glad, he took it all to bits and did the diagnostics for nothing! then showed me what he found before putting it all back together.

I would be happy to just get the damn check engine light to go off and stay off and put the rest down to the restoration charges.

[kristian_dancer]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

First of all, what you have is one shops opinion of the work that needs to be done. Whether or not it needs to be done is another story. If you absolutely can't do it yourself, take it to another shop and see what they thing. If you can do it yourself, take a look and see what you find.

Drum brakes are pretty easy to DIY.

Ball joint can be a little tricky, but not impossible.

Shocks are very easy as a DIY.

Oil filler could be as simple as someone changing valve covers at one time, although I have seen a lot on the right side.

I'll do the shocks, if it was not a dually I might try the shoes it's the seals and the drum replacement Im concerned about never done one or owned one before.

I need a good old fashioned retired mechanic with time on his hands who I can pay cash. Anyone know of a good one in or around Douglasville GA

[maynardtruckin]

what year c20?

[Blue Chevy 1987]

$79 alignment sounds familiar.. whered ya take the truck??

[kristian_dancer]

Originally Posted by maynardtruckin

what year c20?

1986

[kristian_dancer]

Originally Posted by Blue Chevy 1987

$79 alignment sounds familiar.. whered ya take the truck??

Kaufmann Tire

[Pop's C-10]

All tha stuff can be done with tha right tools , tha ball joints may be a issue. you can pull tha arms & have tha ball jpoint pressed out & in for a gew buck.

[maynardtruckin]

well the disk brake conversion on the rear all you need is dust shield nand caliper brackets from dealer. the rotter, pad's, e brake shoes, caliper, e brake cables, and hard ware can be acquired from your local parts house from a 06 1 ton chevy. now 86 is still electronic carb and computer controlled advanced on your distributor. just pull the bulb sounds like a short in the wiring. shocks are easy you can do them your self. the ball joint is more difficult but u could still do it your self just rent the ball joint press from the parts house. I would still get a second opinion on all the problems first.

[maynardtruckin]

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

All tha stuff can be done with tha right tools , tha ball joints may be a issue. you can pull tha arms & have tha ball jpoint pressed out & in for a gew buck.

why do all that when all he needs is the ball joint press tool that looks like a c clamp with fancy ad'ons for it. It can be done on the truck. Hell I did mine in 30 min's with a hammer and a jack.

[tucsonjwt]

I had the same problem on my 83 C20. Don't let anybody work on those seals until you/they read up on GM rear wheel seals for floating rear axles (aka "axle seals"). GM changed the design on the rear wheel seals for floating rear axles because the original design is prone to leaking. The new seals are a two piece design, not a one piece design, so it is designed more like a bearing. My rear drums were ruined also, but you should buy the drums and 2 piece seals yourself and have them installed by a shop that wants your business if you can't do it yourself. GM has a bad original one piece design but has not owned up to it.
Here is a quote from another GM post on this issue:

Exclamation Re: 99 Chevy 3500 4x4 rear wheel seal keeps leaking
Had a long chat with Chevrolet today and this is a common problem and they have a special seal for this. the new seal locks onto the seal flange and in the hub then it spins within itself (a 2 peice seal) it is nice that they let me buy a new housing and hub and 7 sets of brake shoes before they finally give me the seal for a cost of $19.98 vs $4271.00 already spent.

From another post - I don't know if this is the correct p/n for your truck, but you could ask your Chevy dealer:

Original P/N 26061024 replaced by 15823962

http://thedieselpageforums.com/tdpfo...d.php?p=237221

Shop around for the drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc. and you can get some good prices. If you don't have a good local source, I would try the two AC/Delco online suppliers with free shipping for genuine GM parts at aftermarket prices (usually).

[kristian_dancer]

You rock thanks I ll give it a look.
I wish I had some Idea what the axel was I have no idea the year or what it came off of. I do know the drums are 13".

Thanks
Kris

[tucsonjwt]

If you can find a good local differential shop ask them for some advice. I am pretty sure that the floating axle seals cover most years, but if you can find an application chart online that would tell you, or call your Chevy dealer and ask him what model years that new GM axle seal part number applies to. You can put your calipers on the axle shaft in the two step locations to verify that the new part number will fit your axle. The shoes and drums are described by size on the AC/Delco websites, and probably on Rock Auto's website also. The wheel cylinders have a size description also, as I recall. I think you could put C35 or C3500 (or K if 4WD) in the search box on parts websites and use different model years to get verification of part numbers - I would start at 73 and end at something like 99. Doesn't the rear axle have some numbers on it that indicate model of rear axle? My guess would be that those floating axles have not changed much, but I know a differential guy could verify that for sure. Also, I recall seeing differential specialty dealers online with a lot of information and contact information for technical help, if you don't have a friendly local differential shop.

[Pop's C-10]

Originally Posted by maynardtruckin

why do all that when all he needs is the ball joint press tool that looks like a c clamp with fancy ad'ons for it. It can be done on the truck. Hell I did mine in 30 min's with a hammer and a jack.

I think he mentioned tha lack of skills & tools..That is why...lol

[maynardtruckin]

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

I think he mentioned tha lack of skills & tools..That is why...lol

It is rent-able and easy to use!

[Blue Chevy 1987]

Originally Posted by kristian_dancer

Kaufmann Tire

ah nvm thought it might be a chain of a store i work at

Originally Posted by maynardtruckin

why do all that when all he needs is the ball joint press tool that looks like a c clamp with fancy ad'ons for it. It can be done on the truck. Hell I did mine in 30 min's with a hammer and a jack.

ball joints really are easy to do. i know here advance auto parts rents the ball joint press an its a badass set. i used it quite a few times untill i bought a set myself cause i need it alot cause im a mechanic. advance rents the set for like $170 deposit that you get back when you return the set