Power Booster Install questions

[Flatbed136]

Well, I think I finally got it.

I have not tried them out while the truck is running as I'm waiting for a new voltage regulator.

I have a few more pictures and will try to give some information on how I went about doing it so I can hopefully give back and help someone like all of you have helped me.

First thing I did was unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall. It would be easier to tie up the master to the hood or something to get it out of the way and give you room to work as others have stated but I did not do this. I can see the reasoning behind it as the master will want to go back to its original position. Take your time and be gentle with the lines and they will move where you need them too with out any kinks or bends.

I didn't disconnect the lines from the master. This has been talked about quite a bit in other posts. Saves yourself another step.

Place the pedel linkage through the firewall and put the booster in place over the four studs in the firewall. There was one bolt in the lower right hand side with a washer on it that you have to take out to get the booster flush and than put it back in and tighten down.

Connect the booster to a vacuum source. I connected mine to the manifold. You can see where in the picture below.

After talking to cparman, I finally think I figured out how to check the clearance between the master and the booster. My push rod was not adjustable.

I used rope caulk. I placed a 1/4" ball like cparman talks about in his posts right below the hole in the master and between the lip going around the outside of the master. Press it in place so it sticks and won't move around on you when you put everything back in place. Bolt the master back up to the booster nice and tight. Don't push on the brake pedel. I waited a few minutes before I took it back apart again. Unbolt the master from the booster and look to see if the caulk was squished. As cparman has stated, your looking for a 1/16-1/8" indentation in the caulk. Below is a picture of where I put the putty and also what my squish looked like when I got done.

I only had one hole in the brake pedel arm so I had to drill a new hole. Others have stated the top hole is for the manual setup and the bottom is for the power brakes. I went 1" down from the bottom edge of the exsisting hole and about 3/4" from each side to find the center. If you do this with the pedel installed in the truck like I did, you will have to tie back the brake pedel just enough so your bit passes by the clutch linkage and other obstacles. It was trial and error a few times before I got everything where the bit wouldn't rub againest anything.

The bolt that goes through the pedel and linkage is tricky to get in the lower hole and even the top hole for that matter. I removed the plate with the pedel bumpers on it and also the brace that holds the steering colum in place under the dash. I ended up going under the hood and loosened the bolt and nut on another clamp around the steering to get me some more play. It would be easier if you had a helper but it can be done by yourself as I did it.

I went with the advice posted above and and have about 9/16" of threads showing on the linkage going to the brake pedel arm. As stated this is for the pedel height only. Below you can see where the pedel sits now with the new hole drilled etc.

You will have to adjust the stop light switch. I have not done this yet but your brake lights will stay on if you don't. I also had to fish the stop light wire attaching to the proportioning valve out of the cluster of wires to make it longer to reach.

Check your pedel free play. There is quite a bit of information on this posted in threads and from what I've gathered, the amount may be different depending on which way you measure it. Someone hopefully will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

I don't have to push the pedel down very far before I feel resistance and the pedel feels nice and stiff when you do depress it. Using the top hole before, I never felt much resistance.

One thing to check is to make sure your using a master for the power brakes. I ran across a thread about that. I can't remember if the truck had power brakes on it when I sold it or not. When I bought it back, it just had manual and that is the master I'm using. Something I may have to look into if something isn't quite right.

Hopefully if I missed anything, others will correct me or post some additional information. There is plenty of information posted on how to do this but I found using different search words brings up information about it not listed in other searches etc. so I'm hoping this post can provide most of the information needed to complete the job.

Thanks again to everyone that has helped me and I'm sure if something isn't right when I do test them out again, I'll be asking for more help.

I still have to get a few washers and button up some other things before its ready to go but I think I'm 99% complete.