got some blazer questions

[michael bustamante]

nubie to this section!!! ok guys im picking up. a bone stock never been modified. 84 blazer 4x4. looks like it has power options. now this thing has been sitting for 8 years and not been started in 5. so whatam I gonna need to look for to make sure its a good block? crank turns. I know I have to change all fluids so why else should I do before cranking the engine? anything else to look for before finalizing the sale?
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update!!!! she's home!!!. turns out its a 305 with a 700r4. also its a silverado!!
interior ceiling header panal fell down but all else is good. ill need bucket seat covers. has the center console
original am/fm tape. got the back window down but wont go back up and the tailgate lock wont turn with the key. but hey for 900 I can't complain. no rust at all as its a NM truck!! ill post pics soon
I wanted to ask what options were available for this year blazer?

[motornut]

well for me the body mounts,rockers,under the belts,rust across the top of the back gate
may wana confirm the block some came with 305s
sitting that long.....drain the oil,gas,maybe brakes n fluid
shocks may have seized
rubbers gona be shot/dried up in gas lines rad hoses
i duno if i'd wana start it,with out changing stuff

[michael bustamante]

definatly need to change all the fluids and im sure shocks are shot. you guys think ill need to dunk the gas tank?
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[motornut]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

definatly need to change all the fluids and im sure shocks are shot. you guys think ill need to dunk the gas tank?
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yup duno bout dunk if it cleans out ok

[trevor73402]

If it's sat that long, you need to remove the spark plugs and squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil (or some type of oil) into the cylinders before you start cranking on it. Those cylinders are dry and you don't know for sure that the oil pump even works correctly.

I'd drain all the fluids, including the gas, install a temporary cheap clear plastic in-line fuel filter just before the carb. Do it up by the carb so it catches everything possible just before it dumps in the carb, also, being up top, it's easy to see and change out. if you do get it started, let it run for 10-15 min to get up to operating temp so you'll be able to spot any leaks. Also, after it's been running a bit, check the oil and coolant to make sure you dont have one getting into the other.

As long as the rats haven't done any damage, you got air, fuel, and fire.....you should be able to start it right up.

I did this very same thing on a suburban that had sat for 5yrs.
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[michael bustamante]

good idea bout the marvel. o was thinking the same thing
you think I should change diff and trans oil too?
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[Hoods69BadBowTie]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

good idea bout the marvel. o was thinking the same thing
you think I should change diff and trans oil too?
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Yes you should but I wouldn't worry about it till you get it running. Would be a good idea to check those fluid levels though. Yes I would drop the tank defiantly. You can squirt oil in the spark plug holes or also if you have a spare distributor take and grind the teeth off it and put it in and prime your engine with it. You can check the oil pump out this way cause if it works it should build up pressure! Yea I would check for rust in the fenders and back by the tailgate also check the frame around the steering box for any cracks I have seen my fair share of broken frames there.
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[michael bustamante]

checked the frame. at the gearbox and its good but the steering wheel has about a 40 % turn until the steering catches. im thinking worn gearbox. no rust at all. no extra distributer buy that's a good idea. Man this truck has alot of emissions hose!!. oh and the trucks home now :-) changed oil. rad fluid. picked up royal purple. gear oil for the diffs. monroe heavy duty shocks. new pcv. hooked up cheapie fuel filter and hooked up like wad suggested above. new optima red top battery. new ac delco rapid fires. cap and rotor. anything I forgot?
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