65 Suburban Rear Stab/Trac Bar Bushings?

[RoyL]

My rear stabilizer bar or track bar bushings are shot, need to make sure I order the right ones . . . here's a picture of what came out. Outer rubber with steel inner liner.



Checking the local parts stores, I came up empty. Searched the www and found some at Classic Trucks parts and others, the description and picture shows steel inner and outer liner with rubber in between . . .

http://www.classictruck.com/product/...abilizer_Items

Is this what I should have? steel inner and outer sleeves?
Thx,
Roy

[Captainfab]

I haven't bought that particular part, but I would say that would be the correct part for your panhard bar. I believe that the replacement part has the outer steel sleve as that makes it easier for the average guy to install, versus trying to press the rubber bushing into the end of the panhard bar.

[lakeroadster]

Thats what I used on my '65 C10... should be good to go!

[RoyL]

Thanks guys. Just checking to make sure.

Roy

[RoyL]

ordered them from classic truck, but looks like they are too large in the OD, difference in OD of bushing and ID of trac bar bore is ~15 thousandsths, don't have that big of a hammer . . . anybody run across this? they are closed till Monday. Will see if their other bushings for early 60s trucks are the same, maybe smaller . . .

Roy

[RoyL]

Classic Truck's response was "that part is for a truck, we know nothing about it fitting a Suburban, and gave me a RMA # to return them. They gave me GM P/N 3775762. A search shows:

CHEVY - CHEVROLET REAR AXLE TIE ROD BUSHING - Part Number 3775762

1/2 Ton, Except 4 WD 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972

The description on one search said 1 1/4" bushing. My Trac bar bore ID is ~1.185" and the bushing is ~1.20". I'm not a machinist or expert, but I don't think this is gonna work as I thought a 0.001 difference or less was needed for a "press or tap in" fit??? Maybe I have the right part but the wrong trac bar? Guess a little sanding will remove enough to install these, but wanted to get to the bottom of the parts match for truck and suburbans.

Roy

[Street Sweeper]

Not sure if this helps. I dropped my sub 4" in the rear and used this trac bar from Performance Online. It went on with no problems.

http://www.performanceonline.com/196...ABLE-TRAC-BAR/
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[Street Sweeper]

Roy - sorry, misread the question. Thought you were looking for the bar, not just the bushing. I know there's a company that makes a poly graphite replacement. Maybe someone on here knows. I'll try to look through my info here. The bushing should be the same as a pick-up, though . . . I think . . . I'm pretty sure . . . I guess?
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[Captainfab]

There is not any difference in the panhard bar (trac bar) between a pickup and a Suburban. Sounds like Classic Parts needs to train their customer service people a little better.

You might consider this Poly bushing from Energy Suspension.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EN...UP&prefilter=1

[RoyL]

Thx, Might have been easier to buy a whole new Trac Bar, with the bushings installed.

I made these work, a little careful grinding, checking, grinding, checking. Didn't want to wait to find another set of bushings. Still would like to know what these bushings are supposed to measure, so I'll know if I got a one off trac bar or if these bushings they are selling ain't right.

Anybody got a bar off the truck or bushings they can measure?

Like I said, their bushings are 1.20" OD. My trac bar ID was 1.185ish.

Thx,
Roy

[RoyL]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There is not any difference in the panhard bar (trac bar) between a pickup and a Suburban. Sounds like Classic Parts needs to train their customer service people a little better.

You might consider this Poly bushing from Energy Suspension.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EN...UP&prefilter=1

Cptfab, shouldda listened to ya . . . these would be the easiest way to go, cheaper and easier to install with the split halves . . . if I hadn't already have bought these, that's what I would do. live and learn. Swapping the bushings and replacing the rear u-joint, the back end ain't clunking like it was.
Roy