Dippin

[Brandonc20]

Hello all-

Many of you guys might be having the same problem I am....so let's hear so feed back.

My truck seems to be diping in where my cab meets my bed. I know the urthane spacers are antique and I was hoping someone could help me out and let me know exactly where to buy these and how difficult this is to install. Will post up pic tomorrow. Thanksnin advance

Brandon
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[padresag]

you have 2 options as I think that you have a c20. you can take what you have now and send them to steele rubber and they will rebuild them for you and return. or you can go to c10 rear cab mounting. you just have to obtain the frame brkts for the rear cab mountd
ron

[chevyrestoguy]

Did anyone ever get a price from Steele to do the repair of the stock mount? I'm just curious if it's cheaper to go that way than it is to find a C-10 chassis in the wrecking yard, rob the mounts, and do the swap.

I remember that Tony (lilred66) used to sell a kit to do that.

[SFTorange]

I have Tony's kit, and it worked great to switch out my cab mounts to the C-10 style. I also have the factory mounts shear-type mounts that you can have if you pay shipping. They are still original, but are in good shape still and they could get you through for a while in a pinch.

[chevyrestoguy]

If Brandon passes on the mounts, I'll take 'em. This is his thread, and he gets first shot at any and all offers.

[SFTorange]

Either way is fine with me, just glad to be able to help someone out.

[Brandonc20]

I'm confused. thanks

[chevyrestoguy]

Brandon-
Our C-20 trucks have a different rear cab mount than the C-10 trucks. The C-10 trucks have a standard type mount which uses a "biscuit-style" rubber disc that sits between the mount on the frame and the bottom of the cab. The C-20 trucks like ours use a different mount. Instead of the biscuit, the C-20 mount is actually 2 metal sections with rubber between, bonded together using a vulcanizing process. For the life of me, I have no idea why Chevy decided to use that style. Almost every C-20 I see has the "broken back" syndrome, which indicates that the mounts have become unbonded and failed, which appears to be the case with yours (and mine, too). Climb underneath your truck, and you'll see what I mean. On the side of the frame, about 10" back from the door jamb you'll see the mount. Look in between the two metal vertical sections of the mount, and I can bet that you'll see that the rubber is cracked and dis-bonded.

Here's a good thread on an alternative:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=402220

SFTorange has a set of the original mounts to replace yours if you're interested. I posted that there is an alternative to these mounts by using the frame bracket assembly from a C-10 and using the biscuit mounts. You'll have to drill out the rivets in the frame to remove the mount assembly either way you go (stock C20 replacement or C-10 retrofit).

I hope this clears up any confusion

[padresag]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Did anyone ever get a price from Steele to do the repair of the stock mount? I'm just curious if it's cheaper to go that way than it is to find a C-10 chassis in the wrecking yard, rob the mounts, and do the swap.
.

all that you have to do is email them (steele) for a price
ron

[padresag]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Brandon-
Our C-20 trucks have a different rear cab mount than the C-10 trucks. The C-10 trucks have a standard type mount which uses a "biscuit-style" rubber disc that sits between the mount on the frame and the bottom of the cab. The C-20 trucks like ours use a different mount. Instead of the biscuit, the C-20 mount is actually 2 metal sections with rubber between, bonded together using a vulcanizing process. For the life of me, I have no idea why Chevy decided to use that style. Almost every C-20 I see has the "broken back" syndrome, which indicates that the mounts have become unbonded and failed, which appears to be the case with yours (and mine, too). Climb underneath your truck, and you'll see what I mean. On the side of the frame, about 10" back from the door jamb you'll see the mount. Look in between the two metal vertical sections of the mount, and I can bet that you'll see that the rubber is cracked and dis-bonded.

the reason for that rear cab mount in C20 and up trucks was due to the more rigid suspension in those trucks over the C10 series. they were intended to give more of a floating feeling to offset the rigidness of the ride of the heavier suspension

ron

[chevyrestoguy]

the reason for that rear cab mount in C20 and up trucks was due to the more rigid suspension in those trucks over the C10 series. they were intended to give more of a floating feeling to offset the rigidness of the ride of the heavier suspension

ron

I never thought about that.....I guess it would make a difference. Thanks for the info!

[Captainfab]

That explains why those same rear cab mounts were used on the medium duty trucks also. My '63 C60 has the same rear cab mounts.

Originally Posted by padresag

the reason for that rear cab mount in C20 and up trucks was due to the more rigid suspension in those trucks over the C10 series. they were intended to give more of a floating feeling to offset the rigidness of the ride of the heavier suspension

ron

[blackedoutharley]

I seem to recall Steele Products charging $120 per pair... but don't quote me on that. With the constant price increases of everything else in the world I don't doubt they have gone up also.

Edit: Just checked..... $122 per pair and 3 week turnaround.

https://secure.steelerubber.com/search_frameset.php

[chevyrestoguy]

Brandon-
I climbed under mine yesterday and took a picture of the driver's side rear mount. You can see how the rubber has separated from the steel:


If you're wondering what the chain is on the lower left corner of the picture, it's the exhaust hanger. I'll bet that exhaust clanged like a church bell going down the road. The previous owner had a bunch of ghetto mods he did on my truck. That one is worthy of a picture!

[Brandonc20]

Ok that makes sense. thank you. So if i were to send these out, according to balckedoutharley...it should be around 120 bucks to getthis fixed. then, how hard is it to replace? and I almost just asked about that chain until i saw what it said underneath the picture. thank you for your help.

[chevyrestoguy]

The mounts are riveted on to the frame from the factory, so the rivets will have to be removed. You can grind the heads off and knock them through, or if you have an air chisel with some grunt and a flat blade, you might be able chisel the heads off.

MAKE SURE you have the cab supported with a jackstand or something else before you do this! Try to raise the cab to where there's not much weight on the cab mount, and it'll make removing the mount a little easier because it won't be under a load. The cool thing about this is when you're finished, the mounts will bolt in place (instead of rivets) and can be easily removed. That's why the kit I posted the link to is pretty cool. You could be done in a day, start to finish. If that's the route you wanted to go, I would suggest replacing all of the other cab mount rubber while you're at it. Those things are probably over 45 years old and wasted.

I'm not sure how long Steele will take to do the rebuild on your mounts, so the old truck might be down for a week or two.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Dont forget shipping charges also..