cutting the steering shaft.

[sams60gmc]

So I didn't buy a kit or anything for my powersteering swap so I'm kindof lost on where to mount my box. I've read a couple of different write ups on it but when it comes to mounting the box there are a few different measurements for where to cut the shaft and how far to move up the rag joint to put it in the proper location. So my question is. If I cut the rag joint off right at the top how much of the steering shaft do I cut off and how far do I move the rag joint up the shaft to get it into the proper location. Thanks for the help.

[DPowers]

These two pages show the whole process.

http://www.persh.org/pickup/Rez1.htm
http://www.persh.org/pickup/Rez2.htm

[markeb01]

I think before you can determine where to cut the shaft, you'll need to know exactly where the box is going to mount. If you're not going to buy a kit, perhaps you can obtain a pattern of the adapter from someone. It's critical to locate the box in the correct position and steering shaft angle or the pitman arm will be out of sync with the steering linkage.

Assuming you either buy the adapter plate or can fab one up in the correct dimensions, there's another problem with the 1960-62 frame. The available conversions are made for the 63-66 frame, which is taller in the area of the steering box, and is also a single flat piece of steel where the plate/box bolts on. As shown in photo 12 on the 2nd link above, the upper rear hole lands in the flat area of the frame. On a 1960 that hole is directly centered over the top flange of the frame. The only way to use that hole without modification is to cut a slot across the top of the frame to allow the bolt to reach the other side.

Rather than cutting the frame on mine, I drilled another hole lower on the plate, and a matching hole lower on the steering box (pic attached):



This way the top of the frame remains undamaged. The downside - after 10 years my original p/s box died and required replacement. I drilled the new one, no problem - except - the core cannot be turned in for credit because of the extra hole. Other than that, I've put about 165,000 miles on the odometer with this setup and it works fine. Unless you have superior fab skills I suggest buying an adapter plate at least. Captainfab sells a version on this site. I bought mine from REZ (they were the originator and only company making them back when I did the swap).

[slepysal]

I used the CPP kit it is desinged for the 60-62 kit, the REZ is not



as you can see it fits fine no major mods


this is how I cut my shaft.




I installed the gear then measured were to cut
hope this helps

[slepysal]

and this is the end results

[degree01]

Hey Sal, doesn't that plate move your box to the right about half an inch therefore miss aligning the steering shaft? I am about to do that to mine but im concerned because it is making my steering shaft off about half an inch.

[67Dad]

Does anyone know if the groove in the steering shaft in picture (engine compartment part of shaft a foot or so above the rag joint) is normal? If not, any suggestions for repair?

Thanks.

Mark
(67 C10)

[Captainfab]

No that is not normal. You could weld it up, but that is going to bend the shaft, so it would need to be straightened afterwards. It might be just as easy to replace either just the shaft or the entire column.

Originally Posted by 67Dad

Does anyone know if the groove in the steering shaft in picture (engine compartment part of shaft a foot or so above the rag joint) is normal? If not, any suggestions for repair?

Thanks.

Mark
(67 C10)

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by slepysal

and this is the end results
Attachment 500222

Your steering box doesn't appear to be at the same tilt as the shaft.

[Shorty Cox]

Sams60GMC, I did mine without a bracket. Well, not really, I built my own bracket, and you will have to also, because, when the power box is properly aligned the front/lower mounting hole will not totally hit the truck frame. Your first step is to mount the box. The stock steering box had three bolts, the power box has four. The common hole for both is the rear/lower hole. Use it to align the box to the frame,steering shaft, and pitman arm to the drag line. Once you have determined that, mark the two upper holes on the frame. It also helps if when you get the doner box, get the rag joint and lower section of the doner truck steering shaft. The inside diameter (ID) of that section is just larger that the outside diameter (OD) of the stock shaft. Once cut, the stock shaft will slide inside the doner shaft making a safe and secure connection.

I did mine several years ago and put a post on here with more detailed steps.

Good luck
Shorty

[jbgroby]

Sam,

I did the conversion and I can say that the REZ kit is NOT made for the 60-62 frame. It does not tell you that when you buy it. it's a good kit but for later years. The CPP is the way to go.

The album below will take you from day 1

http://rides.webshots.com/album/571837084bSxNPf

I just mounted the shaft and will put the pictures inthe album, this afternoon.

Hope this helps.

[LostMy65]

I went with Captainfab's adapter plate - http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=332923 - because he works his butt off helping out in these forums.

[jbgroby]

Here is what my cut shaft looks like.