08-20-2011, 08:42 PM | #1 |
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Location: Northwest, NJ
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Rust Issue
The other day I removed all four fenders from my 1966 Chevy short stepper. I think its really cool that I can do that and still drive the truck on the street! But let me tell you, that it is not an exercise for the faint of heart if you have any rust issues. My picture shows what I found. Im glad that a picture is worth a thousand words as I dont even know how to begin to describe it except to say that it is a mess. Obviously, this part is ruined and the worst part is that the rust looks as if it comes from the inside so that any external repair probably will not last very long. But what is it that is rusted? What function does it perform? What are the ramifications of not fixing it at all? Will my heater still work? Is there any way to repair it besides cutting it all out and welding in a replacement? Where would you even get a replacement except from a non rusted parts car? Anybody have an words of advice or consolation? I never even knew about this until I took the fender off. I almost wish I had left it on.
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08-20-2011, 09:02 PM | #2 |
1965 Chevy C10, 2005 4.8L/4l60
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Re: Rust Issue
Yea, that aint good. maybe another cab? that is the only advice I could give you..
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08-20-2011, 09:22 PM | #3 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Another cab? I appreciate your advice but was hoping for something a little less drastic? They make so many repro sheet metal parts for this truck but nothing like this, I suppose? What will happen if I dont fix it and just leave it? What will I sacrifice in the way of operation, heater? defroster?
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08-20-2011, 09:26 PM | #4 |
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Re: Rust Issue
It is called a lower air vent. That part is available in the aftermarket, however if it is that bad what is the rest of the cab like? On my new cab those are quite good but I still had to replace parts of the floors, rockers in and out, kick panels, and cab corners.
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08-20-2011, 09:36 PM | #5 |
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Location: Brookings,South Dakota
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Re: Rust Issue
I just bought a 64 short box my vents on the inside are rusted bad.Does anyone make sheet metal with the vent hole to weld in?? If so who??
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08-20-2011, 09:42 PM | #6 |
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Location: American Fork Utah
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Re: Rust Issue
Goodmark makes this piece. Its easy to replace and the new one has a great fit. I would definitly replace it before I put it back together!
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08-20-2011, 09:57 PM | #7 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Just looked it up and yep, its there. Great advice and thanks for the help. I didnt know about Goodmark. It looks like a good source for lots of different parts.
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08-21-2011, 12:14 AM | #8 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Goodmark = good stuff if you feel froggy get some sheet metal and try fabrication.
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08-21-2011, 12:57 AM | #9 | |
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Re: Rust Issue
Quote:
I don't have pictures of the other things, aside from some bedside patch pieces (they're flat, not interesting at all) Just remember, it's only metal
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08-21-2011, 04:47 AM | #10 |
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Location: Orlando, Florida
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Re: Rust Issue
One thing I learned is that YOU work the metal, don't let the metal work you. Jump in and start fabricating easy stuff. You'll find that with simple problem solving and the fact that necessity being the mother of invention you can make some cool stuff.
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08-21-2011, 10:25 AM | #11 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Im happy to have found the solution to fixing my problem. But one of my original questions that has yet to be answered is what would happen if I didnt fix it? Fixing it would be cool but lets face it, no one will ever see the repair job. I dont really care what my truck looks like under the front fenders. But I would like to know that if I elect to fix it, I will be doing something worthwhile.
Since there is a vent on the underside, the fixture is not air tight. So whats the problem with a few extra rust holes? Can anyone answer my question? Thanks |
08-21-2011, 10:55 AM | #12 |
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Re: Rust Issue
I "think" new sheet metal is the primary way to go, but requires a fair amount of skill and equipment. I'd like to "suggest" another fix ...fiberglass! I had a 64 Chevelle at one time and the lower rear panel behind the wheel well was rusted semi badly ...it was pretty much all there with a bunch of pin holes all over ...basically attesting to how thin the existing remaining wall was. I wire brushed it as best as I could, cleaned it off real good with solvent and put a layer of fiberglass mat over it. I took the car up to Alaska where they put salt over everything ...I've seen new cars rust thru inside of 5 yr.s! ...Never had any more problems with that panel! The fiberglass resin encapsulates the rust so it doesn't "grow" and the mat adds strength to the existing sheet metal. Because you have a good section missing, I'd suggest using iron cloth or some kind of mesh screen to act as a form for the fiberglass mat to mold around.
I still think cutting out and welding back a new metal section is the first class way to deal with it, and you'll get alot of good advice from the guys here. But I believe the fiberglass mat is an easier close second way to go! ...IMHO, Good Luck! |
08-21-2011, 11:21 AM | #13 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Thanks for your suggestion. I have given that some thought but the holes are a bit large to cover over. Its worth considering though and I thank you for that.
Does it have to be airtight with the exception of the bottom vent? No one seems to know the answer to my primary question: What happens if it remains unrepaired? What functionality will I be missing? Will my heater and defroster still work? If this thing has no function, then why repair it at all? Maybe its just a cover and I could well do without it altogether? |
08-21-2011, 02:13 PM | #14 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Your lower vent on that side wont work as well....that's the only downside I can see since hat has nothing to dowith the defroster
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1966 C10 Long step build on a budget http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=445201 no garage, no shop, limited storage space and tools....no problem. |
08-21-2011, 02:23 PM | #15 |
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Re: Rust Issue
What you’re looking at is the ducting for the fresh air vents in the kick panels. Air (and debris) enters the plenum in front of the windshield, and flows into these ducts which enter the cab when the vents are opened. Sadly this is the result of GM’s designed obsolescence engineering. They allowed all manner of crap to enter the cowl slots (no protective screen), and provided one drain on each side for the water to run out. On a truck that sat outside, especially under trees, the bottom of these ducts pack up and become a compost pile. Since the water cannot drain, the moist natural products just start eating metal until the result is what you see.
If you wanted to eliminate the kick panel vents you could do without the ducts, but repairs should still be made to keep the damage from growing even further. If they are not repaired when you open the vents - air, dirt and any water flinging up from the front tire will be entering the cab. |
08-21-2011, 05:59 PM | #16 |
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Re: Rust Issue
Thank you. That about answers my question. I tried to use my vents a few weeks ago and not much if anything came out of them. I guess this is the reason why. I ordered replacement sheet metal from Goodmark and will attempt a repair. At least I know that even if my repair doesnt work as good as the original, I wont be hurting anything too badly. Thanks again, for your answer.
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