using bell housing to line up new engine?

[Denee007]

yes, they're about 300 + s/h. The polyurethane long block weighs about 30lbs, plus adding on my own waterpump, dist, and whatever, buy an old crapy aluminum intake to hold the engine up and measure the angle of the intake. An empty case of a Turbo350 is being supplied by my tranny man. I just figure why make it difficult for myself? I can sell the replica block later on, or rent it out or use it as a coffee table? Don't forget I'm doing it with my fenders and bodywork on. I wouldn't consider it a waste of money; others would; my husband does; he's not out there doing it; I am! ; )

http://www.payr.com/

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by mknittle

But as Denee sad earlier she isn't lowering her truck much or making any radical changes so I did not want to overwhelm her with information that does not apply to her project.

Mark

Bingo you nailed it. Lets keep it simple and not try to over complicate things by attempting to show off our mechanical knowledge.

The turbo 350 is pretty close to the same length as a stock stick bellhousing and three speed trans and that is one reason why I suggested using the stock bellhousing set the engine in with for alignment and location purposes. Unless there is a specific reason for moving the engine forward a couple of inches I still stick with that. I've used those "universal" engine swap crossmembers several times with good success when putting V8 engines in early trucks. They also add some support to the frame when you cut the bellhousing crossmember out.

The big issue would be having the hei clear the firewall. Why not set the engine in, bolt two bolts between the engine block and bellhousing and see where you are at? If everything looks like it will work put your front mount in and get the engine set up and then pull the engine back out and take the bellhousing and crossmember out.

Something like this on the front http://www.speedwaymotors.com/S-B-B-...ount,3273.html

And something like this one of the tubular transmission crossmembers shown here http://www.speedwaymotors.com/V6-Bui...ount,3272.html on the back under the trans mount.

Denee I was thinking more about the problems I have seen on GM AD trucks when you remove that crossmember and the frame flexes due to the weight of the cab pushing down but if you add the crossmember under the engine for the engine mounts and the one for the trans that should put the strength back in it and it will be fine.

[Denee007]

Thanks Mr48chev! I am going to try to keep the old trany crossmember. Not exactly sure yet. However, my plan is to take my sawzall, cut symetric cuts on both side removing the bulk of it, um, then after the engine/tran is temporarily set in, then see what I need to remove from the old crossmember (it may be to thick) to Bolt it back in by welding "tabs" and running long bolts (like the ones used for engine support) through it to secure it back in place. What could look neat is if I could mock up the part being rebolted back up, making or having made a tubular design, but nothing wrong with my first intention.

[mknittle]

I made a cross member like that for a 68 4x4 I used a x- member from a 196? Chevy truck and cut.. that is a long story. Anyway it worked out good for the 10 years that i ran it. somebody said they had cracking problems, I think mine didn't because with three sections bolted together it had enough flex.