235 timing, flywheel marks

[51 okie]

OK I have read all the posts on timing that I could find. I know about the steel BB on the original flywheel,but I put a '56 235 in my 51 3100, and it has a different set of marks. Which do I use? The triangle, or the circle?

As always insight is so appreciated.
Thanks

[AceX]

I'm sorry I cant be of much help. The engine in my '54 is a 270 IL6. But this is me giving you a small bump to see if someone more knowledgable than I can help.

[dwcsr]

What engine was in the truck?
What flywheel are you using now?

For 235 with its original flywheel. You should see something like l l 0 l l on the flywheel.

On the distributor vacuum assembly is a calibrated scale with 0 in the middle and some marks on each side. This is called an octane selector. Back then you would loosen the bolt and adjust the timing according to what octane you purchased. There should be a stamped line on the distributor pad that these marks line up on. With the engine off lossen the bolt and set the mark on the 0. Tighten the bolt. Then loosen the screw that clamps the the vacuum assembly to the distributor, attach your timing light and start the engine and turn the distributor until you see the the pointer line up with the ball. Tighten the screw.
Make sure you have the points set correctly or it will run badly. Set the idle with a vacuum gage. Check the timing again after you set the idle. Adjust if necessary, You can then adjust the timing maually with the octane selector to advance timing move the selector toward you. To retard timing move it away from you.

Good runing 235's are very smooth running and you should be able to put a cup of water on the valve cover and have very few ripples in it.

[51 okie]

Hey Dave thanks for responding.

The original motor was a 216. But I yanked it along with the flywheel(which had the BB) and starter.

The motor I replaced it with is a 1956 235. I can only assume the flywheel came with. I was able to get a photo last night.



As far as adjusting timing while it's running, I'll see about that if it ever starts.
Also since my last post I have major carb leakage so I have to deal with that first, so I don't blow up. Gas is pouring out of the side of carb.
Thanks,
Kabe

[51 okie]

Oh and thankx Ace for fueling the fire, so to speak.

[AceX]

So long as there isnt an actual fire, we're all good

[51 okie]

Well its been close. I had a BIG gas leak from the carb. Almost had some fire. I think I have to fix the carb before I go further.

I got the truck on 10/10/10 and gave myself 6 months to be able to drive around the block. So I ve got zome time
Posted via Mobile Device

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by 51 okie

Well its been close. I had a BIG gas leak from the carb. Almost had some fire. I think I have to fix the carb before I go further.

I got the truck on 10/10/10 and gave myself 6 months to be able to drive around the block. So I ve got zome time
Posted via Mobile Device

Your going to use the O mark

[magicoolbus]

x2. Looks like you shoulda flipped your ring gear too.

[51 okie]

x2. Looks like you shoulda flipped your ring gear too.

??

I can only assume x2 means you agree with the circle theory.

Ring gear? I don't follow.

[magicoolbus]

Yes to the circle. What I meant by flipping the ring gear is: Whenever I have the flywheel off, I always flip the starter ring gear over. That way, you don't have to buy a new one and you get a fresh set of teeth for your starter.

[51 okie]

coolbus,
I see. I didn't know you could do that. It's not real chewed up.
Thanks

[punkavenger]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

What engine was in the truck?
What flywheel are you using now?

For 235 with its original flywheel. You should see something like l l 0 l l on the flywheel.

On the distributor vacuum assembly is a calibrated scale with 0 in the middle and some marks on each side. This is called an octane selector. Back then you would loosen the bolt and adjust the timing according to what octane you purchased. There should be a stamped line on the distributor pad that these marks line up on. With the engine off lossen the bolt and set the mark on the 0. Tighten the bolt. Then loosen the screw that clamps the the vacuum assembly to the distributor, attach your timing light and start the engine and turn the distributor until you see the the pointer line up with the ball. Tighten the screw.
Make sure you have the points set correctly or it will run badly. Set the idle with a vacuum gage. Check the timing again after you set the idle. Adjust if necessary, You can then adjust the timing maually with the octane selector to advance timing move the selector toward you. To retard timing move it away from you.

Good runing 235's are very smooth running and you should be able to put a cup of water on the valve cover and have very few ripples in it.

This is great information and well written. Thank You.
I just adjusted my 59 Apache 235 (all stock except for the 38 Weber I put on to get rid of that horrible Rochester and Igniter to get rid of the points) to where the BB was about 1/4" before the needle... I was told 10 degrees BTDC and I figured that was about right. The truck runs very smooth now. Did I adjust the timing correctly?