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08-24-2003, 07:37 PM | #1 |
Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 7,531
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I have tried the way that oldsub86 mentioned above, and the "hot" way of adjusting valves. Being a stupid kid that had no clue how to adjust valves, i found it easier to use the hot method. The hot method can make quite a mess (hot oil leaking everywher if you aren't careful), and the hot oil dosent' feel very good on your skin. Still, i found it much easier to get the valves adjsuted correctly with the motor running.
The easiest way to do it is to take an old SBC valve cover, cut the top off of it, install it on the motor, and start it up. Get the engine to full operating temp before you adjust the valves. You need to loosen one valve until it starts clacking (you will easily hear when it starts making noise), then tightnen it down until it just stops clacking, then tightnen it another 1/4-1/2 turn. Do this on evey valve and you will be done. Hydrualic lifters require virtiualy no adjustment unless you are having cam failure, or the rocker studs have somehow pulled up. Late '70's and 80's 305's came with bad cams pretty often, so that could be a problem. If so, adjusting the valves will work for awhile, but a new cam will restore performance and mileage.
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg |
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