need help with drive line

[losthope]

I dont think you can use this setup in the hanging type frame now that i think about it my old 65 and my 66 both have two piece drive shafts but no slip yoke in the middle

heres the og pivots all in a line

heres the new setup to different pivots the bearing would have to move quite aways towards the trans to work which means a new bearing crossmember


If it was me id go to the junkyard pull a o.g style driveshaft and weld up the hanging style bearing so its stronger and be done with it before id waste anymore money trying to make this setup work

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Budman56

I think that I may have had the drive line people cut my drive shaft too short, here are some photos, what do you guys think?

guess you wish that you didn't ask that question now?. if you get a chance , get a look at a stock set-up or some one may post pictures of an unmodified truck. you can still utilize the heavier centre support just that you will have to remount it and put it in it's proper position or elevation
ron

[losthope]

found some links for you to look at, you can use that drive shaft and bearing but will have to either put in a crossmember like i said or theres another way that "captain fab" posted on another thread about carrier bearings:

this first link is to "woogeroo's" pictures and shows you what the o.g unmodified driveline for your truck looks like the same thing i have , and one way that the bearing has snapped even tho the three that came apart on me is where the bolts bolt in from the top into the plate thats "pinch welded" on top:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Woogero...haftThingBroke

now that you see how your original one looked like youll see that the one you have now is different with the slip yoke in the middle

heres the link to two ways to setup the drivline you have, post #2 and #3 shows it with a homemade crossmember(looks horrible IMHO) to hold the bearing further towards the trans

now post #8 "captain fab" posted a way that can be done with the bearing installed in the area you do but the drivline has been made to work with it in that spot
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...arrier+bearing

so it looks like you have four options here:

#1 get the o.g style bolt it in and call it a day might have to get the shaft near the trans shortened/lengthen depending on what trans you have...

#2 remeasure the length that you need from trans ,to carrier bearing to rearend and have them remake the driveline you have to the right dimensions so it looks like the one "captain fab" posted(which all the pivots are not lined up so i guess that it doesnt matter after all)

#3 have a one piece drive shaft made with the parts you have

#4 (really this is pointless)install a crossmember for the bearing towards trans more and still have the front driveline you have made shorter might as well just remake it like captain fab posted...


Just out of curiosity might have you gave the dimensions backwards to the driveline shop?????looks like your front one needs to be longer and the rear one needs to be shorter...

[RAYDAY]

YA I DIDNT SEE THE READ SLIP WAS ALL FORWARD! maybe just slip it forward it needs to engage trans alot more. Push carrier forward 1.5in? ish. probably work lowered with heated springs it doesn't have enough travel to worry about drive shaft plunge or pivot points really. easy cheap fix would be raise tranny move front shaft forward so reap slip is half way at ride height in tranny as much as u can just so it isn't bottomed out. call it a day.

[padresag]

as Losthope (spotted)There is no rear trans mount(insulator) between crossmember and trans, so if he put one in it should come up to height. difficult to see behind that e/brake cable
ron

[Budman56]

Originally Posted by losthope

found some links for you to look at, you can use that drive shaft and bearing but will have to either put in a crossmember like i said or theres another way that "captain fab" posted on another thread about carrier bearings:

this first link is to "woogeroo's" pictures and shows you what the o.g unmodified driveline for your truck looks like the same thing i have , and one way that the bearing has snapped even tho the three that came apart on me is where the bolts bolt in from the top into the plate thats "pinch welded" on top:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Woogero...haftThingBroke

now that you see how your original one looked like youll see that the one you have now is different with the slip yoke in the middle

heres the link to two ways to setup the drivline you have, post #2 and #3 shows it with a homemade crossmember(looks horrible IMHO) to hold the bearing further towards the trans

now post #8 "captain fab" posted a way that can be done with the bearing installed in the area you do but the drivline has been made to work with it in that spot
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...arrier+bearing

so it looks like you have four options here:

#1 get the o.g style bolt it in and call it a day might have to get the shaft near the trans shortened/lengthen depending on what trans you have...

#2 remeasure the length that you need from trans ,to carrier bearing to rearend and have them remake the driveline you have to the right dimensions so it looks like the one "captain fab" posted(which all the pivots are not lined up so i guess that it doesnt matter after all)

#3 have a one piece drive shaft made with the parts you have

#4 (really this is pointless)install a crossmember for the bearing towards trans more and still have the front driveline you have made shorter might as well just remake it like captain fab posted...


Just out of curiosity might have you gave the dimensions backwards to the driveline shop?????looks like your front one needs to be longer and the rear one needs to be shorter...

thank you very much this is just what Ive been looking for, to explain how I got here, I bought the truck with nothing installed motor, trans drive shaft, so I installed the motor on after market motor mounts and a cpp trans mount and put it into the truck I notice right away that the trans mount didnt look right but it wouldnt fit between the frame rails like my 65. but this is what i got with the truck so I used it. there is a trans mount on the cross bar but its hard to see in the photos. as far as the drive shaft it was what came with the truck so I assumed that it was for the truck, now I wish I had done some research before spending 125.00 dollars having it cut and change to the correct yoke. but hind site is 20/20. I thought the bracket that the bearing sat on was a stock bracket but it sound like from what every one here is saying, is that its not.

so today I moved the motor back and was able to make up the 1.5" in the drive shaft now I will play with the cpp cross member tomorrow to get it up higher. I will shoot more photos tomorrow and up load.

[padresag]

that rear mount insulator is 2" high. i can' see it . I can see the flange that seems to come off the crossmember or is that the insulator. couldn't see ay rubber?
ron

[Captainfab]

OK, to clarify some of this about what driveshaft and carrier bearing is correct. The '63-'72 trucks were available with both styles of driveshafts and carrier bearings. The one with the top mounted carrier bearing is a standard or light duty driveshaft and carrier bearing. I would say most likely came with a 6cyl and 3 speed trans. The one with the larger tube driveshaft and the larger bottom mounted carrier bearing is the heavy duty driveshaft and carrier bearing. Most likely came standard behind a V8 and SM420 4 speed. Some I6's with the SM420 4 speed also came with the HD drveshaft and carrier bearing.

I would say that 90% of the '63-'66 trucks I have owned over the past 35 years have had the heavy duty driveshaft and carrier bearing. It just seems to be more common in this area. For the longest time I thought the light duty one didn't come out until '67, as this is where I saw most of them, in the '67-'72's.


As for Budman56's issue, it sounds like you are making some progress on correcting it. You just need to be sure you have enough room on that rear slip joint for your suspension travel. You may have to also raise the rear of the trans to get proper driveshaft angles, so you don't end up with vibrations.

[Budman56]

ok guys I have a couple more questions, I moved the motor back and fixed the issue with the drive line being too short, so now on the the next problem. As you can see in the photos I need to attach my throttle to the carb but the trans kick down cable is in the way of the route for the throttle, anyone have any photos of how to fix this?

next issue is the back of the trans is too low and I need to raise it to level out the drive line but the cpp cross member will not fit between the frame rails. Any one got a fix for this? did I install it correctly?

last but not least I purchased a cpp shift linkange to put between the trans and column. I followed the instruction but the shifter doesnt work correctly. Can anyone tell me which direction should the lever on the trans be in order for it to be in park, I have a turbo 350 trans.

[losthope]

as far as the trans goes i dont know how cpp mounts the trans but on a stock trans cross member you have a rubber mount like this that spaces the trans up a couple inchs(i think that cpp would also use some type of rubber mount and not hard mounted like you have):


far as throttle i dont know exactly what your using, but you might have to do something like i did,and extend the throttle arm like this:




and for the shifter, if you took that lever bolted to the trans and pulled backwards towards the tailgate till it stops that would be park!! the moving it forward each click would be p,r,n,d and so forth etc d1 ,d2(depending on trans)

it looks to me like you have the arm that bolts to the trans on wrong and when you move the gear shifter the cable is just moving up and down the slot in the arm, looks like if you had it pointed more towards the ground it would pull and push the arm more instead of riding up and down the slot....but i never used one of those and dont know what gear(p,r,n,d) your gear shifter is at in the picture?

[Captainfab]

I don't think that trans crossmember is for a truck. I would just toss that thing and get a factory '66-'87 truck auto trans crossmember. Then you know the trans will be at the right height. If that just sin't an option, then see about the correct trans crossmember from CPP.

[losthope]

budman check this link out:
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...geStoryweb.pdf

it says to place the arm on trans in the 8' o'clock position, your picture looks like you have it in the 11' o'clock position and thats why its not shifting, like i said it needs to be pointed towards the ground more so the shifter rod is pulling and pushing it.