Want to convert to power brakes

[71-C10]

I have a 71 Cheyenne that does not have power brakes. It is in need of a new master cylinder, so now would be a good time to up grade it to Power brakes. Has anybody here done this that has pictures to help me along? I want it to look like OEM.

Thanks,

Eddie

[NC67Chev]

Howdy neighbor. Are you working with drum/drum or disc/drum?

I upgraded my drum/drum to power a while back. I was in the same situation, meaning my master cylinder was bad. I bought a reman booster/master from advance in KVille. I opted to replace all lines and hoses while I was at it. I could take some pics if you want or you could look at it in person since I'm close by.

[PanelDeland]

You'll need the brackets and rod for a PB set up.I'm near K'Ville also,so you can check mine out if you like.The Pull-a-Part or 109 U-Pull-It should have the brackets and a core Booster.Shoot me a PM if you wanna look.

[71-C10]

Howdy Neighbors,

I've been looking at a master cylinder/booster combination from Mikes Bump and Grind in Texas. Everything is assembled ready to bolt on. It's an 11" cad plated booster with Delco Moraine stamped on it, and a GM master cylinder. The prop valve is included as well as the vacuum hose. This set up will have the factory installed look that I'm after.

I don't know what mods will have to be made to the brake lines coming off the prop valve, or if I'll have to replace those lines to make it look and operate correctly. Also, I've been told that I will have to drill another hole in the pedal to connect the rod from the booster. What else can I expect? I'm trying to avoid any surprises.

Being a '71, it is a disc/drum set up. I have a booster/master cylinder with all of the brackets from a '72, but I've had it since about '89 and I would have to replace all of the components. That would be my plan "B".

I would still like to see both of your trucks. PM sent.

Eddie

[68gmsee]

You won't need to drill any holes.. at least I didn't have to on my 68 GMC or 69 chevy. Also, the brake lines you have now should work unless they've been changed around. Just gently move them out of the way while you install the bracket/booster/m.c. setup and reconnect them. You should have enough slack to rehook them to the new master cylinder.

I don't know if Mike's B&G kit includes the brake pushrod, but if it doesn't, you will need that.

[71-C10]

68gmsee,
There is a picture of the conversion kit on Mikes website, and you can see the rod that connects to the brake pedal. He does say that the firewall grommet is not included. I don't know how hard it is to find one of those, I've not looked yet. It pretty much looks like a bolt on setup, and is as close to a factory look as I've seen. I'm trying to avoid surprises. I wasn't sure about drilling another hole in the brake pedal, I don't see the practicality of GM having two different kinds of brake pedal.


Eddie

[NC67Chev]

I've never dealt with Mike's Bump and Grind, but I've seen some positive things written about them. I got a booster bracket and pedal push rod locally and cleaned them up and painted them, then I got a reman booster and master cylinder and painted them.

As mentioned above you shouldn't have to replace the lines if they are in good condition. You should be able to tweak them forward enough to reach. Mine needed to be replaced.

Also, I agree that no drilling should be required unless there's something different about that particular set-up.

As for the firewall boot, I actually purchased mine locally through Classic Muscle in W-S, but they appear to be discontinued in their updated catalogue. I'm sure you will be able to find one if you post a WTB on the parts board though.

[68gmsee]

Yeah, no problem finding the boot. Check in the vendors section. I think I got mine from GMC Pauls or Brothers -not sure.

[71-C10]

I was just over at Classic Muscle last Friday. I didn't even think about the fire wall boot. I'll go to the vendor section like 68gmsee suggested and see what I can find.

Eddie