Sound deadener - on the cheap

[riz]

I know this has been discussed a lot but this thread is spercifically asking what you guys have used other than the expensive stuff like Dynamat.

I don't want anything petroleum based with the tar smell.

I have to cover the entire floor of my K5 Blazer project and my C-10 cab so I don't want to spend a fortune but I want a solid product that will get the job done.

Thanks in advance,

RIZ

[Gordonr1973]

I used RamMAAT.

Pretty rerasonable price-wise, good adhesion & easy to work with.

Forgot his name but he was helpful & quick to ship.

[mikev]

You can get everything you need from McMaster Carr, it just won't have the name brands on it and will be a little more work to install.

[TexasJeff]

I used FATMAT on mine, and it is cheap and easy to install.

http://fatmat.com/

[Chevydude56]

You might want to check this out

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=511370

[Stew_Magoo]

Peel and seal. Google it. It's cheap, it works. I did the entire (floor, roof, inner quarters, doors) interior of my mustang for like $75. You can't do a door with Dynamat for $75.

[hotrod_991]

Originally Posted by Stew_Magoo

Peel and seal. Google it. It's cheap, it works. I did the entire (floor, roof, inner quarters, doors) interior of my mustang for like $75. You can't do a door with Dynamat for $75.

how well did this work for you? did it cut alot of the outside sounds and heat out? i jsut found it at lowes and sounds too good to be true type thing.

[Stew_Magoo]

Originally Posted by hotrod_991

how well did this work for you? did it cut alot of the outside sounds and heat out? i jsut found it at lowes and sounds too good to be true type thing.

Didn't notice a reduction in heat, but it was fall when I did it over the course of a month. I did a full interior swap, upgraded from manual to electric windows/locks, lighted visors; along with the sound deadening. Took a little longer than planned. The car has a stock 4cyl in it, so I have no engine heat issues to begin with. I P&S'd the entire floor, under the rear seat, inner rear quarters, a bit inside the doors, and roof. I also put carpet padding under the carpet (a long with the factory jute padding.) I also put the carpet padding behind the door panels, and above the headliner (the factory "insulation" that was up there self-destructed upon removal.) I also stuffed pink fiberglass house insulation in around the rear quarters. The car is much, much quieter. Entirely worth the effort. I still need to P&S the rear package tray and make some sort of sound barrier for behind the rear seat. They make P&S in one, or two foot wide rolls, but needs to be special ordered.

[Stew_Magoo]

few pictures...

[JCampbell]

Originally Posted by Chevydude56

You might want to check this out

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=511370

That looks cool.

[mikev]

Check this out: Sound Deadener Showdown

You don't need to put CLD (Dynamat, Raammat, Fatmat, etc) all over 100% of the metal. Blocking sound isn't what it's designed for. It's designed to add mass and reduce vibrations.

Mass Loaded Vinyl is what's designed to block sound. A quick google search comes up with a 4x10 sheet for 75 bucks shipped from this place

Put down the CLD tiles in the middle of the panels as needed, then put the MLV on top of that to actually block the sound with closed cell foam in between them as a decoupler.

[Square_78]

Use thick rubber mat or "pond liner" and glue it down to the cab floor with spray adhesive. Works the same as dynamat for sound deadening as long as you glue it securely.

[Edahall]

Mix any old paint you have lying around with sand and apply to cab floor. Very cheap and should work well.

[85sierraclassic]

im planned on using www.audiotechnix.com when i get the extra cash look up some videos of you tube.

[arrover]

People seem to really like the Peel and Seal roofing type products. Here are a couple of threads:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/79...t-quieter.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/74580-peel-seal.html

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Isn't peel and seal asphalt based?
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[mikev]

Using Peel & Seal is not cheaper!

more reading

You would have to cover 100% of everything -- twice -- with the Peel & Seal to equal covering 25% with an actual sound deadening product.

The math breakdown is like this:

Peel and Seal is 16.42 for a 12.5 square foot roll, or $1.31 per square foot.

1.31 times two (because you need to use at least two layers to get close to the same performance) = $2.62 to treat one square foot.
CLD price ($3.50) divided by four (since it requires only a quarter of the amount) = $0.875 to treat one square foot.

[arrover]

Yes I think you are probably right although I haven't used it. I realize the thread starter requested something that isn't petroleum based but I don't believe that a tar smell is problem with the Peel and Seal.

[rs72z]

I used the peel and seal on my crew cab, no tar smell. I installed one layer on everything including roof floor and the doors. I cant get over how quite it is.
Oh yea, 75 bucks and i have enough left to do my regular cab also.

[nutsforchevys]

I used a product called window wrap. It has a sticky rubber coating on the back. Worked well. It is available in building supply stores.

[Rich84]

Does it have a strong odor??
I guess it would be safe for the doors skins too, since it's made to keep water out.
Does it work well as a sound deadener?

Trying to decide on a product for my truck which sounds like a tin box. No headliner, I can't hear the stereo. The doors sound hollow and noisy..
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