Newbie with driveshaft question

[Frankasaurus]

Hi there, first post. I have a 66 long wide bed, that has been lowered. I yanked the straight six and three speed for a sbc and th350, so the driveshaft isn't going to work (too long). My question is thus: should I shorten the original or get a new one? I have a friend who has a lot more experience with this stuff but less than he thinks, and he says not to trust the original and to also go with a one-piece. I thought I would ask people who have done this rather than someone who thinks he knows everything and really only knows 1/4 mile dragsters. I'm not really into the cheapest method, just the best. Thanks in advance!
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[padresag]

just get your current d/shaft shorten as long as he current tube is fine; not dented
ron

[_1966ChevyPU]

What kind of use will it see?

I'm swapping in a one piece because of lowering and making a bit more power. Sometimes, less is more...

[markeb01]

Welcome to the forum. Don't know the answer to your driveshaft question, but good luck with it.

[Frankasaurus]

My truck is also lowered, quite a bit but I don't have actual inches to write here as it was the PO who did the drop. So, mine is lowered and the motor is a 425 horse small block. I would rather do this correctly to begin with than to do it twice. Will shortening the stock 2-piece be strong enough? When doing the 1-piece, what do you do about that carrier bearing? That crossmember provides a lot of lateral support. Is there a new crossmember with more room for a driveshaft traveling through it at an entirely different angle? Sorry for all the questions, but I greatly appreciate your help!

[_1966ChevyPU]

I think it's CPP that makes a new crossmember for it to go through... but I just hacked mine to be set up the same as their kit.

If you're already gonna have to at least hack the stock shaft, I'd spend the same it'd probably cost to just get a new one piece shaft.

[Frankasaurus]

Thanks guys, that is what I was looking for. Basically I should just have a brand new one-piece driveshaft mad and make sure I have plenty of clearance. How did you go about that? Put a lot of pressure on the rear frame to go as low as possible and remove whatever contacts the shaft, then raise the truck off the ground so the suspension is unloaded and do the same again? Or does someone have knowledge of the actual features to remove? I appreciate your advice, just want to do this right to begin with rather than find out on the road!

[blackdawg]

I would invest the money to get it shortened.Also change the ujoint and get it balanced.I did this on my 66 stepside that i bought without a motor and then put in ground stopping 350.Just piece of mind.

[CdM]

Originally Posted by _1966ChevyPU

I think it's CPP that makes a new crossmember for it to go through... but I just hacked mine to be set up the same as their kit.

If you're already gonna have to at least hack the stock shaft, I'd spend the same it'd probably cost to just get a new one piece shaft.

That frame is beautiful!!!!

[SS317]

Just get it shortened. Keep the original two piece and get a new carrier bearing and U joints.

[_1966ChevyPU]

Originally Posted by CdM

That frame is beautiful!!!!

Thanks, it is quite shiny

[1963c-10]

Ooooo....shiny

[mike hancho]

A one piece for a long box is going to be an issue. Most places won't due a 4 inch drive shaft over 60" long.
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