Rear Coilovers 64 C-10

[Arekusu]

Ok, so as I sit here getting closer to the day that I come back from the desert, I'm trying to learn about suspension set up. I read the write up and searched the board.

What I'm triyng to figure out is..

Can i mount coilovers to the stock location where my shocks are or is that stupid? Also, if I do buy the mounting bar for coilovers and go that route, can I maintain the 4" drop that I have in the rear already without worrying about bed cleareance? Maybe to to a 5 " drop?

About my build 64 C-10 , TKO 500, looking at a 3.24 rear gear for an estimated 500ft lbs of torque from a 454 bbc. 27-31" tire is what I'm looking at.

I havent worked with adjustable shocks before but I'm asuming with the QA1 StockStars that I can get the 90/10 or different valve rates?

Thanks!

Alex

[Captainfab]

IMO you would be better off to mount the coilovers behind the axle, as far outboard and as verticle as possible. Depending on how wide of a tire you will be running, you may have room outside the frame.

[Arekusu]

Ok. I'm ok with buying the coilover bar for the top mount of the coilover, but will it hit the bed and will I still be able to lower the rear of the truck 4-5 inches without hitting the bed. Reason I'm asking is I'm not sure with the top mount will hit... and I have Zero experience with any sort of coilover.

Alex

[Captainfab]

I can't answer your questions for certain, as those answers will depend on what 'kit' you buy and what it's designed use is. The length of the coilover shock will play a part in that as well. Typically there is a bit of adjustment in the coilover mounts I have used. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer of the kit(s) you are looking at. They will be able to give you a more definitive answer.

[Arekusu]

What kit would you recomend? I dont want to buy junk but I dont feel like I need top end equipment either. Reliable and proven would be best. Only brand I know about are QA1 stuff.

Alex

[Super73]

If it is going to be lowered 4-5 inches, you are probably going to need a shock that has limited travel to keep it under the bed. In addition to that, being a 64, mounting it to the rear is going to cause you to rethink your panhard bar location.

Why do you want an adjustable coil over vs a spring in the factory location with an adjustable shock in the factory location?
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[Marv D]

I'm not sure how much travel there is in the stock suspension, but lowering 5" isn't going to leave much at all is it (without notching the frame which I believe has a cross member right there doesn't it?)

[raceman6135]

As the others are eluding to, I'd STRONGLY suggest you think this through before purchasing anything.

How is the truck going to be used? How much money will you have for this project? Who will be installing the new rear suspension, and how much experience do they have setting up suspensions?

For the rear, you'll want approximately equal amounts of resistance for both the bump and rebound.

Also consider the front suspension and what your plans are for that. If you plan on using all of that horsepower, you may want to set aside some time and money to improve the front, too.

[Arekusu]

Thanks for the replies.

The reason I'm looking at the coilovers is well, a lot of you guys that go fast run them. I'm trying to get my truck to not go super fast but I'm hoping for a mid 12. The truck is already lowered 4 inches in the rear and I like the look, so I was hoping to keep that same stance without cutting the frame or bed. I plan on using the trailing arms and raising the front of them as Super 73 has done. If adjustable shocks do the same job with my 4" rear drop springs then sweet. Any recomendations for the shocks?

I do the work myself. If it comes to big welding though, I have to get that sourced as I only have a 110 flux core welder for now. I have zero experience setting up suspension, which is why I'm here. I can replace parts with the best of them, but knowing why this part or brand over this one is what I'm trying to learn here. I usually ask a question here, get a consensus and then research it to see if I still feel that answer fits my goals best. I don't just do something because you guys said this or that.

I feel like this project is near the end, which is why I'm looking to get this suspension stuff right the first time. When I get back, I'm hoping to get the cab painted and the engine mocked up and mounted along with the rest of the drive line. I probally have about 2k left to spend on this thing. But my stack of receipts is already really really tall, so I'm trying not to go crazy and change the whole direction again.

My goal with the truck is to run a mid 12, and drive it a coupple times a week and on the weekend. I'm just looking to build the best solid preformer I can build without going to the extreeme level (back halfing, roll cage, preformance only). My going fast experience is limited to driving on the high way and what I read here or on the internet to try and learn something. So thanks for the help so far.

Alex

[Super73]

For the cost, time, and labor involved, it is hard to beat a simple rear suspension change such as a lowering spring and adjustable shock. I would spend my money on a Ranco adjustable shock and run your lowering spring. The rear lowering springs seems to be a lighter rate anyway. Or there are guys using rear Jeep Cherokee springs in the rear of there truck.

I went 12.33 @ 109 with just CPP lowering springs all the way around (fronts were waaayyyy to short and stiff for a drag racing application) and the shocks all the way around were Comp Engineering 3-way adjustable.

Times in my sig are on a stock location spring and shock.

Having used both the Rancho's and the Comps, I'll take the Rancho's

[BR3W CITY]

This one caught my attention, as there isn't alot of 60-66 drag suspension discussion.

I'm somewhat curious myself. I'd like to switch to coilovers for a couple reasons; mainly the fact that my tire size almost touches the spring now, and I'd like to move inboard of the frame. My frame is notched already, and I'd setup a bridge to run the coilovers on.
I haven't seen to many running "full" coilovers on a 64-66, and I'd love to see some pics if anyone has that setup currently.

[Super73]

BR3W, What size tire are you planning on running in back (or currently have). I have run a 14.50x30 ET street in the rear as well as my current 315/60/15 drag radial (both on a 12" wheel) and had plenty of clearence from the spring when I was on a stock trailing arm/spring set up.

Keep in mind, the closer to center the spring/shock sit the less control they have under a bump due to the leverage ratio. The same goes for the farther forward from axle center line.

The number 1 issue with running coil overs on these trucks is moving the panhard bar. Sure, you could extend the mount further out off the back, but you are also adding stress to it's mounting point. As the pinion wants to rotate up under load, the longer panhard mount on the rear is going to see more stress. Moving it forward of the axle doesn't allow you to keep it level with the rear which has some affects as well.

There are guys running the trailing arms with coil overs and using a panhard bar wit hte 67-72 style rear which has the panhard bar in a different location.

One might be able to do a wishbone and trailing arm set up.



Just some food for thought.

[Arekusu]

Thanks for the info Super 73. I didn't know those times were with adjustable shocks. That's actually great to know.. aka, I get to spend less money, lol. I have stock springs (292I6 springs) up front with a 2.5 inch drop spindle. If I got the truck to run 12.3 all motor, I'd be more than happy. Did the truck run that time with that set up and actually hook up or was it spinning? Also, what control arm bushings would you reccomend? I know people have said stiffer than the stock ones. Are the stiffer control arm bushings assisting more with side load to the front of the arm or is this to make the control arm stiffer to move up and down?

Alex

[Super73]

The 12.3 was with too tight of a converter, dead hooking a 1.89 60' on a 275/50/15 bfg drag radial. With a bit looser verter it would have gone 1.7x..
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[Arekusu]

Nice! Well, good to see there's still hope to getting this thing a good connection to the pavement. I'm assuming that the adjustable shocks were the ones that fit the truck or did you fit longer ones in it?

Alex

[Super73]

I had longer ones, but I didn't have much in my bed. If I was afraid of welding something in the bed, I would have went with a shorter one.
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[BR3W CITY]

super I'm running 325/50/15 MT drag radials. I do have clearance, but thought I'd have more. The spring in the rear are unkown, although they may be jeep springs...they appear a bit wider than the stock springs. If I air down, or go with a wider tire I may be in the woods a bit. I'm running them with Nitro drop shocks.

I'm a "buy it once" kind of guy, so I figured going with a fully adjustable and running a bridge would allow be to get the "most" out of my rear suspension. The truck is already tubbed so loss of bed space isn't an issue, and it gives me a rear tie-in point for the cage should that happen a bit further down the road.

[Super73]

It is nice having a coil over in the rear for ride height changes and more importantly to load the tire more evenly on the scales. I am just trying to point out the added work that comes along with them. For most street strp budget builds, that added work adds up more money and time.
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[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Super73

It is nice having a coil over in the rear for ride height changes and more importantly to load the tire more evenly on the scales. I am just trying to point out the added work that comes along with them. For most street strp budget builds, that added work adds up more money and time.
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no budget..and right now I got nothing but time lol
honestly the install won't be an issue....but setting it up correctly will be the challenge.

[Ont67shortbox]

I have the jeep spring with Rancho adjustable shocks,stock trailing arms welded for strength,up front drop spindle with CE adjustable shock.427 bbc that makes about 450 hp,my 60 foot times are in the 1.67s, and my best time is a 12.18 at 110,save the money and don't get the coil overs,you don't need them

[LSPWRD67CHEVY]

Originally Posted by Ont67shortbox

I have the jeep spring with Rancho adjustable shocks,stock trailing arms welded for strength,up front drop spindle with CE adjustable shock.427 bbc that makes about 450 hp,my 60 foot times are in the 1.67s, and my best time is a 12.18 at 110,save the money and don't get the coil overs,you don't need them

So do you have stock front shocks and 2 1/2 in. drop spindles? What is the part number for the shock your running on the front?

What is the advantage with the jeep springs? whats the part number for the rancho shocks for the rear? is there any reason behind running them in the rear vs. running ce? sorry for all the questions. thanks for any info.

[Super73]

The CE's are very limited in adjustability (3 adjustments) and you have to unbolt the top of the shock, compress it and turn it to adjust. The Rancho's have a turn knob at the bottom of them and 9 adjustments if memory serves.

Jeep springs are cheap and readily available.

[LSPWRD67CHEVY]

Originally Posted by Super73

The CE's are very limited in adjustability (3 adjustments) and you have to unbolt the top of the shock, compress it and turn it to adjust. The Rancho's have a turn knob at the bottom of them and 9 adjustments if memory serves.

Jeep springs are cheap and readily available.

Are the jeep springs off a TJ or?