Intro and some questions (long) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

C10Squared · 10-02-2003, 05:59 PM

Well, I've been reading the board since last week when I picked up my new project. It's a '69 Custom SWB. The engine was rebuilt in February, but it hasn't really been driven much in the last 2 years. Like all projects, the rust didn't seem as bad until I got home and started taking it apart. Guess I can't complain though since I only paid $1000 for it.
<skip this if you want>
I guess I should mention a little about me. I grew up around muscle cars and car shows, so I have always loved the classics. However, my last carbureted car was in 1998 (a '68 mustang GT). Since 1998, I have dealt exclusively with late model domestic muscle including: 5 turbo Regals (including my current '87 GN with 31k orig miles), 1989 Turbo TA pace car, '92 GMC Typhoon, '99 Camaro SS vert., 2003 Mustang Cobra, '88 Saleen #50 etc... To make a long story short, this will be my first foray into a classic truck. I just hope that I have the skills and patience to finish this project.
</skip>

Anyway, I have some questions before I try to tackle this beast.

1. The cab has more rust than I first thought and will need:
-cab corners
-rockers (outer and inner)
-both floor pans
and the worst
-repair to the cowl area above the heater box.
Should I attempt to salvage the cab or just find a donor cab and swap? I may have located one locally that was a theft recovery and was wrecked. The damage APPEARS to have been limited to the part of the frame in front of the cab. However, the tranny was knocked over enough to slightly skew the tranny tunnel toward the passenger side. Cab has no rust, but the doors do not line up perfectly right now. I also need to mention that this cab also has the seat, gauges, window regulators, etc...that I will need (it's a CST LWB BTW) I could also use the tailgate and pretty much all the lights/lenses and bezels from the rear and sides. I think that I can get this for about $500 or so.

2. Are there any web pages or books specifically covering how to repair a steel bed or install a new wood bed? Can I install a wood bed in mine since it originally had a steel bed? You can judge for yourselves how bad my bed is and if I should try to fix it.

3. is there a page that walks through swapping over to 5 lug for the '69?

Sorry for the long post...here are the pics:
http://www.efi-street.com/IMAGES/69truck

I have seen some REALLY nice trucks on here and hope that I can make mine as nice one day.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 10-02-2003, 07:18 PM

Welcome to the board from West Michigan!

If you can verify that the cab from the wrecked truck is not seriously damaged than if it were me, I would get the replacement cab. Not having seen the wrecked truck it is hard for me to know if the cab is good or not. $500 is a good price for what you would be getting.

Question #2, yes the bed can be converted. It is a little involved and there have been other posts. I would suggest using the search function.

Question #3, yes 5 lug rears can be swapped in and the easy way to do it is to obtain a 71 or 72 rear end that is set up for the type of rear springs you have.

Jim

Terry'sToy · 10-02-2003, 07:26 PM

Hi and Welcome to the board.
First of all I don't spend alot of time here cause I am just too damn busy at work, although I do pop in from time to time to see how people are doing and to do a little research.
This place is the best place to get info I must say.

I'll try to answer your questions.
1. I would try and salvage the cab to help keep it more original ( if that is a concern to you at all, or re-sale)
2.There is books on putting in a wood bed (ie. How to Restore your chevrolet pickup, by Tom Brownell. you can get it at www.motobooks.com )..... but I'm not sure about doing it to a steel deck truck.
I would restore the steel deck.
3. Yes, just do a search on 5 lug swap.

Good luck with your project

bpmcgee · 10-02-2003, 07:41 PM

EFI,

One thing to keep in mind when doing a cab swap is the VIN tag. You can't simply drill it out and swap it to the new cab.

If you use the VIN from the other vehicle, then the tag doesn't match the frame. If you remove the tag and have the state re-tag it, you lose originality.

If I were a welder and doing that job, I'd be tempted to swap the cabs, and cut a rectangular plate out around the VIN area and swap that. THAT would actually be legal <g>

Welcome from sunny IL.

Brian

72MARIO · 10-02-2003, 07:54 PM

Buy the parts truck. You will need it. And count on a month of 12 hour days before the cab is completed. If you got the patch pannel route. I would not do it again.

Good luck.

*dtlilly* · 10-02-2003, 09:22 PM

Welcome to the board from W. Tennessee.

ANS: what everyone else said. This by far is the most informative source for our trucks. Looks like you got a good one to restore.

**Palf70Step** · 10-02-2003, 09:33 PM

Welcome from South Mississippi...and ditto the other responses.

dinnut · 10-02-2003, 09:33 PM

that paint cant be original. i dont know what to say.

C10Squared · 10-02-2003, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Terry'sToy
2.There is books on putting in a wood bed (ie. How to Restore your chevrolet pickup, by Tom Brownell. you can get it at www.motobooks.com )..... but I'm not sure about doing it to a steel deck truck.
I would restore the steel deck.

That's pretty funny. I have been out tonight and bought that exact book while I was out at Borders. I read your reply when I got back.

Thanks for the replies folks. I'll take some pics of the possible cab donor this week and post them up for your opinions.
I also found a '71 or '72 in a junkyard yesterday. I MAY be able to talk them out of the rear axle. Can I use the front suspension as well? I also took some neat pics at the junkyard as they had some neat stuff sitting in the weeds including an old C20 Custom Camper.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 10-03-2003, 10:39 AM

You can swap in the whole crossmember with the parts on it and this will give you disc brakes and all.

Jim

Terry'sToy · 10-03-2003, 03:05 PM

All you really need from the front end is the control arms and spindles,discs,calipers,master etc.

krue · 10-03-2003, 04:16 PM

Another welcome from South Mississippi!

griesel72 · 10-03-2003, 04:36 PM

Welcome from Kansas

If you need any help or advice, this is the place.

good luck and keep us posted

David

10-02-2003, 05:59 PM	#1
C10Squared Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: W. Atlanta, GA Posts: 180	Intro and some questions (long) Well, I've been reading the board since last week when I picked up my new project. It's a '69 Custom SWB. The engine was rebuilt in February, but it hasn't really been driven much in the last 2 years. Like all projects, the rust didn't seem as bad until I got home and started taking it apart. Guess I can't complain though since I only paid $1000 for it. <skip this if you want> I guess I should mention a little about me. I grew up around muscle cars and car shows, so I have always loved the classics. However, my last carbureted car was in 1998 (a '68 mustang GT). Since 1998, I have dealt exclusively with late model domestic muscle including: 5 turbo Regals (including my current '87 GN with 31k orig miles), 1989 Turbo TA pace car, '92 GMC Typhoon, '99 Camaro SS vert., 2003 Mustang Cobra, '88 Saleen #50 etc... To make a long story short, this will be my first foray into a classic truck. I just hope that I have the skills and patience to finish this project. </skip> Anyway, I have some questions before I try to tackle this beast. 1. The cab has more rust than I first thought and will need: -cab corners -rockers (outer and inner) -both floor pans and the worst -repair to the cowl area above the heater box. Should I attempt to salvage the cab or just find a donor cab and swap? I may have located one locally that was a theft recovery and was wrecked. The damage APPEARS to have been limited to the part of the frame in front of the cab. However, the tranny was knocked over enough to slightly skew the tranny tunnel toward the passenger side. Cab has no rust, but the doors do not line up perfectly right now. I also need to mention that this cab also has the seat, gauges, window regulators, etc...that I will need (it's a CST LWB BTW) I could also use the tailgate and pretty much all the lights/lenses and bezels from the rear and sides. I think that I can get this for about $500 or so. 2. Are there any web pages or books specifically covering how to repair a steel bed or install a new wood bed? Can I install a wood bed in mine since it originally had a steel bed? You can judge for yourselves how bad my bed is and if I should try to fix it. 3. is there a page that walks through swapping over to 5 lug for the '69? Sorry for the long post...here are the pics: http://www.efi-street.com/IMAGES/69truck I have seen some REALLY nice trucks on here and hope that I can make mine as nice one day. __________________ '72 Chevy Custom/10 Shortbed '77 2wd K5 “Halfbaked” '93 Indy pace truck ‘70 GMC Jimmy ‘76 K5 Blazer Follow me on instagram @C10squared

10-02-2003, 09:33 PM	#7
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 47,322	Welcome from South Mississippi...and ditto the other responses. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

10-02-2003, 09:33 PM	#8
dinnut Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: missouri city, tx Posts: 4,486	that paint cant be original. i dont know what to say. __________________ 70 longbed 496/th400/Ford 9"

10-03-2003, 03:05 PM	#11
Terry'sToy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Victoria B.C Posts: 109	All you really need from the front end is the control arms and spindles,discs,calipers,master etc. __________________ 69 GMC 1/2 ton lwb, LS1, headers X-pipe 4L60E Yank 3500 stall 3.73 w/eaton brute force. moroso trick front springs,jeep rear springs, QA1's

10-03-2003, 04:16 PM	#12
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,448	Another welcome from South Mississippi! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

10-02-2003, 07:18 PM	#2
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Welcome to the board from West Michigan! If you can verify that the cab from the wrecked truck is not seriously damaged than if it were me, I would get the replacement cab. Not having seen the wrecked truck it is hard for me to know if the cab is good or not. $500 is a good price for what you would be getting. Question #2, yes the bed can be converted. It is a little involved and there have been other posts. I would suggest using the search function. Question #3, yes 5 lug rears can be swapped in and the easy way to do it is to obtain a 71 or 72 rear end that is set up for the type of rear springs you have. Jim

10-02-2003, 07:26 PM	#3
Terry'sToy Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Victoria B.C Posts: 109	Hi and Welcome to the board. First of all I don't spend alot of time here cause I am just too damn busy at work, although I do pop in from time to time to see how people are doing and to do a little research. This place is the best place to get info I must say. I'll try to answer your questions. 1. I would try and salvage the cab to help keep it more original ( if that is a concern to you at all, or re-sale) 2.There is books on putting in a wood bed (ie. How to Restore your chevrolet pickup, by Tom Brownell. you can get it at www.motobooks.com )..... but I'm not sure about doing it to a steel deck truck. I would restore the steel deck. 3. Yes, just do a search on 5 lug swap. Good luck with your project __________________ 69 GMC 1/2 ton lwb, LS1, headers X-pipe 4L60E Yank 3500 stall 3.73 w/eaton brute force. moroso trick front springs,jeep rear springs, QA1's

10-02-2003, 07:41 PM	#4
bpmcgee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 2,181	EFI, One thing to keep in mind when doing a cab swap is the VIN tag. You can't simply drill it out and swap it to the new cab. If you use the VIN from the other vehicle, then the tag doesn't match the frame. If you remove the tag and have the state re-tag it, you lose originality. If I were a welder and doing that job, I'd be tempted to swap the cabs, and cut a rectangular plate out around the VIN area and swap that. THAT would actually be legal <g> Welcome from sunny IL. Brian

10-02-2003, 07:54 PM	#5
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	Buy the parts truck. You will need it. And count on a month of 12 hour days before the cab is completed. If you got the patch pannel route. I would not do it again. Good luck. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

10-02-2003, 09:22 PM	#6
dtlilly Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field Posts: 5,597	Welcome to the board from W. Tennessee. ANS: what everyone else said. This by far is the most informative source for our trucks. Looks like you got a good one to restore.

10-03-2003, 10:39 AM	#10
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	You can swap in the whole crossmember with the parts on it and this will give you disc brakes and all. Jim

10-03-2003, 04:36 PM	#13
griesel72 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Howard, Kansas USA Posts: 1,997	Welcome from Kansas If you need any help or advice, this is the place. good luck and keep us posted David __________________ 1969 K10 Custom 10 1997 Z71 2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2006 King Ranch 1980 Wife



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.