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11-04-2012, 11:56 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kansas City Mo
Posts: 73
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Another brake question
I installed new disc brakes on all four corners of my 64. Being my first time doing a whole brake system and bleeding it, I had a question.
When I push the pedal, the first time is easy push, then some resistance after th initial pump. It doesn't bottom out to the floor but it goes pretty low. The resistance does not change much even after 20 or so pumps. Shouldn't the brake pedal eventually lock up if pressure is being built up? I have checked for leaks and everything looks clear. The pads are extremely close to the rotor too. I'm nt sure if that has anything to do with this. Ay advice would be appreciated! Posted via Mobile Device |
11-04-2012, 12:30 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Rathdrum, Idaho
Posts: 305
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Re: Another brake question
I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will chime in here but I'm thinking you still have air in that system somewhere.
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11-04-2012, 01:44 PM | #3 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: southeasternfoothillsofusa
Posts: 1,557
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Re: Another brake question
Quote:
If we study and follow these guidelines, I feel many of our questions and frustrations will be solved. I sincerely hope this link will help. Comments from all who have 'been there/done that' are encouraged. >> http://hydratechbraking.com/braketech1.html << |
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11-04-2012, 03:23 PM | #4 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: southeasternfoothillsofusa
Posts: 1,557
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Re: Another brake question
Quote:
FIRST: I'm going to make a guess, based solely on the several times we've run into this scenario. PLEASE unfasten the pedal push rod from the pedal. Using only hand force, try to push the rod through the firewall and into rear of booster. If you can move it, with relatively no resistance, over approximately 1/4-inch (like 3/4-inch or more) beyond its "line-up hole with the pedal", before it hits rear of booster & its resistance, THIS is definitely a problem. That rod should almost touch (about 1/16-1/8-inch clearance) the rear of the booster when attached to the pedal. If you find this excess movement, you MUST lengthen that rod BEFORE going any further. NOTE: When lengthening this rod, it's good to use something like uni-thread rod and a coupling nut, like from Lowe's, to make length adjustable. Use jamb-nuts (We like to use lock washers also.) against both ends of coupling nut to make it secure when adjustment is complete. SECOND: Please report back. Last edited by luvbowties; 11-04-2012 at 03:32 PM. Reason: added desc of rod |
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11-04-2012, 06:05 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kansas City Mo
Posts: 73
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Re: Another brake question
Thanks for the great advice guys! The push rod does not have hardly any movement when disconnected. However, I think I found the problem. When bleeding the driver rear, I keep getting a stead stream of bubbles that don't let up when I put a vacuum on it. I believe the bleeder screw is letting in the air. We covered them in thread tape when we started because we couldn't hold a vacuum the first time we tried to bleed. Also, my pass rear is led fine and no air bubbles are coming out. I am going to re-wrap and re bleed the diver rear.
But, one last question. When I started the engine up again, the pedal did not get much resistance. I'm not sure what the issue is here, but I feel like I need to take it for a driver and see how it stops. Need to wrap up steering to. Get that done though! Posted via Mobile Device |
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