WOW!!!! Solid Roller Cams are Expensive! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

78' Silverado · 10-11-2003, 01:33 AM

Well....I called Comp Cams. And I was talking to one of there Tech theres. I told him all the info about the truck. And he matched up a Soild Roller cam for me. All i really remeber is the Lift and exhaust/intake which was a .342 Intake.....346 Exhaust....at a .575 lift. Anyways I got the Part Number. And wow lol. For a full cam "set" it was 1,000 Dollars. But for the Cma/Lifter set it was about 700. I was like DAM!!!!!!.....Better start savin lol. Cuz thats half of the cost of my heads haha. But....I will only get the best of the best.

BTW I got my lowering springs in oday!!! yay!!! lol..now all i need is my flip kit haha :P Later Yall!!

Tyler

*1FaastC10* · 10-11-2003, 02:13 AM

have you ordered your flip kit yet? if not, i've got one i'm interested in selling.

TIMSPEED · 10-11-2003, 03:21 AM

Just curious, but why are you going with a Solid Roller Cam? You can get by just as good (if not BETTER) with a Hydraulic roller, and it will be easier to maintain...NOW, if you're going to spend a LOT of time above 6500rpm, THEN I DO recommend the Solid Roller...otherwise, Hydraulic Roller will be fine.

AirMale · 10-11-2003, 01:40 PM

I went with a full hydraulic roller set-up from comp cams and love it. One word of advice: If you plan on driving your truck on the street daily go with a cam that has a lower duration @50. Anything in the 300's is way to radical for a daily driver. Nice thing about CompCams is they offer the roller cams with a cast dist. drive gear so bronze gear is not necc. Good luck 342-346? WOW! I think that tech guy is doin' Oxy's wth Rush

78' Silverado · 10-11-2003, 03:05 PM

Yea...I am still guna consider that cam. But..My friends wants me to get htis cam he thinks would work better but we'll see. And yes MY flip was odered last week...it should be here tuesday.

bpmcgee · 10-11-2003, 05:10 PM

We just put a comp cams 12-407-8 hydraulic roller cam in a buddies 76 corvette. Man that thing runs nicely!

Not sure the mileage yet, but it's got 15 inches of vacuum at idle.

Brian

TIMSPEED · 10-11-2003, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by AirMale
If you plan on driving your truck on the street daily go with a cam that has a lower duration @50. Anything in the 300's is way to radical for a daily driver.

Hmm, on my daily driven 87 Corvette, it's getting a Comp Cam that's 112 C/L with 219/219 duration @ .050, with .560/.560 lift @ .050

Mike76251 · 10-12-2003, 08:35 AM

It is much cheaper to go roller if you have a one-piece rear late model block as you can use the factory stuff......the GM roller lifters are made by Crane anyway.....and the GM roller Vette cams are pretty good for a daily driver.
That is how I did my 383 except I had Crane make me a custom cam.

TwinTurbo · 10-13-2003, 03:44 PM

You don't need a later model block for OEM roller lifters. The V8 lifters are taller than the flat tappets but the 60deg. V6 uses shorter ones, they fit inside the lifter bores and you can use stock retainers, only need to profile the retainer edges and trim own the coolant walls (the radius sections), then true up the lifter bore tops if needed, drill & tap the cam bore and install the spider plate. The plate will have sufficient tension because the later block uses pedestals, the earliers don't have it but the lifter bores are about .400 lower too. Will be good to about .55 lift, above that anyone would go solid roller anyway.

Cheap roller cam for 1/2 the money of retrofit stuff and good quality too, no worries about beams getting loose and rollers digging into the lobe.

SCOTI · 10-13-2003, 06:13 PM

TwinTurbo, 4.3 vortec roller lifters correct? And could you explain the "trim down the coolant walls ( the radius sections)" in more detail. This sounds interesting.

TwinTurbo · 10-13-2003, 07:38 PM

nope, they must be the (3,1L) 60deg. V6 lifters, GM17120070

You must profile these sections: (green, of course on BOTH sides)

SCOTI · 10-13-2003, 09:45 PM

Oh....... duh, you did say 60deg. I should've read what I was reading.

DMAN · 10-28-2003, 05:04 PM

Which push rods would you use? Do the tops of the lifter bores need to be machined or could you do it with a die grinder?

10-11-2003, 01:33 AM	#1
78' Silverado \/ My Loves \/ Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Midland,Texas Posts: 462	WOW!!!! Solid Roller Cams are Expensive! Well....I called Comp Cams. And I was talking to one of there Tech theres. I told him all the info about the truck. And he matched up a Soild Roller cam for me. All i really remeber is the Lift and exhaust/intake which was a .342 Intake.....346 Exhaust....at a .575 lift. Anyways I got the Part Number. And wow lol. For a full cam "set" it was 1,000 Dollars. But for the Cma/Lifter set it was about 700. I was like DAM!!!!!!.....Better start savin lol. Cuz thats half of the cost of my heads haha. But....I will only get the best of the best. BTW I got my lowering springs in oday!!! yay!!! lol..now all i need is my flip kit haha :P Later Yall!! Tyler __________________ 78' Silverado - Blue - (In a Coma) 04' Silverado -Red- 383 Stroker in progress for the 78'!!!

10-11-2003, 03:21 AM	#3
TIMSPEED Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 1,321	Just curious, but why are you going with a Solid Roller Cam? You can get by just as good (if not BETTER) with a Hydraulic roller, and it will be easier to maintain...NOW, if you're going to spend a LOT of time above 6500rpm, THEN I DO recommend the Solid Roller...otherwise, Hydraulic Roller will be fine. __________________ I have a few cars... See Them Here

10-11-2003, 01:40 PM	#4
AirMale Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Atlantic City, NJ Posts: 1,073	I went with a full hydraulic roller set-up from comp cams and love it. One word of advice: If you plan on driving your truck on the street daily go with a cam that has a lower duration @50. Anything in the 300's is way to radical for a daily driver. Nice thing about CompCams is they offer the roller cams with a cast dist. drive gear so bronze gear is not necc. Good luck 342-346? WOW! I think that tech guy is doin' Oxy's wth Rush __________________ 86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction

10-11-2003, 03:05 PM	#5
78' Silverado \/ My Loves \/ Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Midland,Texas Posts: 462	Yea...I am still guna consider that cam. But..My friends wants me to get htis cam he thinks would work better but we'll see. And yes MY flip was odered last week...it should be here tuesday. __________________ 78' Silverado - Blue - (In a Coma) 04' Silverado -Red- 383 Stroker in progress for the 78'!!!

10-12-2003, 08:35 AM	#8
Mike76251 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 2,499	It is much cheaper to go roller if you have a one-piece rear late model block as you can use the factory stuff......the GM roller lifters are made by Crane anyway.....and the GM roller Vette cams are pretty good for a daily driver. That is how I did my 383 except I had Crane make me a custom cam. Attached Images

10-11-2003, 02:13 AM	#2
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,399	have you ordered your flip kit yet? if not, i've got one i'm interested in selling.

10-11-2003, 05:10 PM	#6
bpmcgee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 2,181	We just put a comp cams 12-407-8 hydraulic roller cam in a buddies 76 corvette. Man that thing runs nicely! Not sure the mileage yet, but it's got 15 inches of vacuum at idle. Brian

10-13-2003, 03:44 PM	#9
TwinTurbo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 994	You don't need a later model block for OEM roller lifters. The V8 lifters are taller than the flat tappets but the 60deg. V6 uses shorter ones, they fit inside the lifter bores and you can use stock retainers, only need to profile the retainer edges and trim own the coolant walls (the radius sections), then true up the lifter bore tops if needed, drill & tap the cam bore and install the spider plate. The plate will have sufficient tension because the later block uses pedestals, the earliers don't have it but the lifter bores are about .400 lower too. Will be good to about .55 lift, above that anyone would go solid roller anyway. Cheap roller cam for 1/2 the money of retrofit stuff and good quality too, no worries about beams getting loose and rollers digging into the lobe.

10-13-2003, 06:13 PM	#10
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,080	TwinTurbo, 4.3 vortec roller lifters correct? And could you explain the "trim down the coolant walls ( the radius sections)" in more detail. This sounds interesting. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-13-2003, 07:38 PM	#11
TwinTurbo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 994	nope, they must be the (3,1L) 60deg. V6 lifters, GM17120070 You must profile these sections: (green, of course on BOTH sides)

10-13-2003, 09:45 PM	#12
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,080	Oh....... duh, you did say 60deg. I should've read what I was reading. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-28-2003, 05:04 PM	#13
DMAN Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Benicia,Ca. Posts: 128	Which push rods would you use? Do the tops of the lifter bores need to be machined or could you do it with a die grinder? __________________ '71 Custom Deluxe K10, shortbed, fleetside.



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