my goal is 11.80

[Orange67SWB]

My name is Eric and I have lurked around here long enough.
This is my 67 c-10 SWB
I have owned it for a very long time.
Use to be my dump truck




the truck now


I want to bracket race it more this coming year.
Goal of 11.80's
currently 4.11 rear factory 12 bolt with forged axles and brute posi
stock 70 elcamino 1 pc drive line
TH350 with healthy shift kit
3000 stall which I will swap out for my Redneck 3500
my 60 ft last year was 2.25
355 with Icon forged pistons .004 in the hole
4 bolt with factory forged crank
stock rods with good bolts
Edelbrock RPM heads
Solid ft cam Lunati Voodoo 60141 241 / 249 .520” / .540” 110 / 106 2600-6800
RPM INTAKE
MSD IGNITION
Holley 650 street hp
1 5/8 headers

How can I get my 60 ft time down to like 1.8
This alone will take me from a best of 13.30 to around 12.50
I also have a big shot nitrous plate set up not installed
I run 28 inch tall slicks at the track

I know you all have busy lives, so I do appreciate your help.

[Marv D]

NICE looking truck!!! Are you sure you want to go down this road of faster faster faster...... It sure takes it's toll on things, (pocketbook and pretty work)

That said,, TIRES!!! If you don't want to go to a full on slick or a DOT slick,, try a set of drag radials for the track. You will be amazed how much ET and consistancy your giving up to the street tires.

Second,, If your going to run street tires...STAY OUT OF THE WATERBOX,,, drive AROUND it. Burnouts and low tire psi is for race tires, NOT street tires. Treaded front tires drags water to the starting line if you drive through the water,,,, and water gets trapped in the tread.. just to weep out and make a puddle there where your waiting for the tree. Low tire psi will cause a hard street tire to cup and have LESS traction than when fully inflated.

There are a lot of guys here with plenty of help for the stock rear suspension. That's just a few suggestions if it's not something your not already doing.

(edit) I totally missed the last line in your post that you run a slick at the track,, DOH.. makes most all of that a moot point don't it!!!! sorry)

2.2+ sixty is a traction problem for sure,, now to figure out why......

[Orange67SWB]

Thanks for the reply Marv
I know it is a slippery slope wanting to go faster...lol.
I run Toyo slicks at the track with about 15 psi
My suspension is stock front and rear.

[68longhorn]

Are you spinning tires coming out of the hole or is it just not going?

[Orange67SWB]

Originally Posted by 68longhorn

Are you spinning tires coming out of the hole or is it just not going?

No tire spinning, but my 3000 stall is not flashing and it seems to take a while for the RPM to get up.
I have another stall 3500 that should flash to at least 3500 maybe a little more with spray.

[Marv D]

No spin??? you are dead hooking with 4.11 gear, and 3000 stall / TH350???
Something ain't right!! That cam is a bit large for anything less than a true 10:1 compression,,, but... the RPM heads are 64cc, Only 0.004" down the bore,, you would have 10.1 compression with a 'normal
5-6cc valve reliefs in a flat top piston......
How tall of a slick is that? You should be ripping a 28" slick to pieces

[Orange67SWB]

I have custom built 3000 stall, but it doesn't flash. I am going to swap the stall out.
I will post some vid of me at the track. You can hear the truck reving slow til it gets to about 3k and then it goes.
So, I feel alot of the slow 60 ft is the stall not getting my RPM up off the line.

I will go out and mesure the slicks and post the size.

[Super73]

My advice..

Get some white shoe polish. Mark both rear tires sidewall at the valve sets and see if the wheel is spinning in the tire.

While you are at it, have a camera mounted on a tripod so it is not shakey and pointed at the rear tire. Have the camera person follow the rear tire out on the launch. Try to get is zoomed in a bit, but don't over zoom as it will be hard for them to follow it out.

Watch your tach closely and tell us what it is actually flashing to when you leave.


Try different launch techniques. IE:

Put just enough pressure on the brake to hold you at the line while idling. Then whack it wide open when it goes green. Don't stall it up at all.

Bring it up to 1,700-1,800 then let it rip.

Stall it up as far as the brakes will allow and let it rip.

Let us know what happens to your 60's in each scenario.


Does the truck load up and not clean up mbefore launch?

Have you read the plugs?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Orange67SWB]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwXqFuufRi0

[Orange67SWB]

I have wanted to mark my tires and film the launch, just need a helper to drag along with me.

I launch from idle and the truck never stumbles.
When I use to race my Chevelle, I would launch from idle and the stall would flash to 3800.

[Super73]

Converter is waaayyyy to tight!
Posted via Mobile Device

[Orange67SWB]

To push my 4000 pound brick down the track to a high 11 sec I would need around 550 - 600 HP?

I have some upgrades to get done!

So far my todo list is:

1. Swap stall
2. Have new driveline built
3. install nitrous kit
4.

[Marv D]

That and the motor sounds REAL lazy until up around 4000 (a guess) but there is NO bottom end. What's the timing curve look like? A Holley HP650 ought to have TONS of bottom end and be a bit lacking up top with that cam / head package.

Yes your getting very little RPM at launch which is compounding the soggy bottom end,,, but I think there is some tunning that may help. Sounds like you have raced / tuned enough to know if the carb is silly pfhat or something,,, but get as much timing in it as possible and see if you can get more RPM / flash at launch. I think your on the right track,,, stall or somethng is KILLING idle to 3500 which is killing your 60'

Just from what I can hear in the video that is

[Orange67SWB]

Originally Posted by Marv D

That and the motor sounds REAL lazy until up around 4000 (a guess) but there is NO bottom end. What's the timing curve look like? A Holley HP650 ought to have TONS of bottom end and be a bit lacking up top with that cam / head package.

Yes your getting very little RPM at launch which is compounding the soggy bottom end,,, but I think there is some tunning that may help. Sounds like you have raced / tuned enough to know if the carb is silly pfhat or something,,, but get as much timing in it as possible and see if you can get more RPM / flash at launch. I think your on the right track,,, stall or somethng is KILLING idle to 3500 which is killing your 60'

Just from what I can hear in the video that is

I have my initial timing set to 18 deg and total timing set to 38deg. It seems to like it. I agreee it is soggy until it gets wound up.

Also, I think it may be a bit on the lean side at WOT. Plugs look good from street driving.

On the street I can do a rolling burn out once it hits 3k rpm.

[Marv D]

Have you looked into a Wideband O2 to get the WOT tuned. A wideband 02 and 5 channel logger is only $400 now. You can spend a LOT more chasing a tune and never 'know' where that A/F is. I know i'm addicted to data, but I wouldn't begin to try and race without a logger and a dyno tune. You spend more time throwing parts at it and shooting yourself in the foot than racing!

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...9&cat=0&page=1

[Super73]

Marv, When I first put my 347 together, I had a stock 80E and a Stock converter.

I first had a 223/228 cam with stock LS6 heads. It made an honest 370rwhp with the verter locked. It was a bit doggy with the tight converter. Wouldn't even sping the tires on the street.

Swapped heads to a ported stock casting and stuck a 243/250 cam in it. Made 410rwhp and out of the hole got even slower SOTP. Dyno overlay showed what I expected to see, roughly a little more TQ but my TQ numbers moved up in RPM. It turn it made more HP. It might have cut a 2.1 60' if I was lucky!!

Once I swapped out to the 3,200 verter it went much better. Was now able to spin the 275/50 BFG DR 20-30 feet on the street, but it dead hooked to a best of 1.89 at the track.

Swapped to the 4,500 verter and it would just kill the tires on the street and bested my 60' to a new 1.67. That was with the same 3.73 gear BUT... tire went from a 26" tire to a 30" tall tire. Imagine that.. Bigger verter way over rode the effective gear change the taller tide made


Point of this isn't to poo poo on the tune being off, but just because a company says it is a X rpm verter, doesn't mean it is.

That same 4,500 rpm verter behind my 347 instantly became a 6,000 rpm verter behind my 418 with the first head cam combo which made 521rwhp locked.

[Orange67SWB]

Originally Posted by Marv D

Have you looked into a Wideband O2 to get the WOT tuned. A wideband 02 and 5 channel logger is only $400 now. You can spend a LOT more chasing a tune and never 'know' where that A/F is. I know i'm addicted to data, but I wouldn't begin to try and race without a logger and a dyno tune. You spend more time throwing parts at it and shooting yourself in the foot than racing!

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...9&cat=0&page=1

I actually have a FAST O2 meter, and I forgot all about it, as I have loaned it to someone quite some time ago. Time to go borrow it back and weld a bung onto the truck.

What numbers do you like to see at WOT?

[Marv D]

Stupid wireless mouse and keyboard froze and I lost the post I had all ready.....

the short version.....

I want to see 12.7-12.8 with gas / race gas.
But... it takes a few seconds for my junk to clear out and run right after launch. The shock load of launch upsets fuel pressure, fuel level in the float bowls, fuel slosh uncovers jets, the enrichment of the pump shot,, everything is 'upset' until the chassis settles down and the motor goes into 'grunt' mode (typically just after the 1-2 shift). I'm running locked out timing so things may appear more 'consistant' in my logs than you would see with a advance 'curve' . If your not logging data somehow,, I'd stuff a GoPro aimed at the O2 and tach just so you have some relationship of what is happening 'where' on the track.

In both the truck and the Nova I log:
WB O2 in both collectors
EGT's in 2 primary tubes
engine RPM
Driveshaft RPM
oil pressure
fuel pressure
oil temp
coolant temp
and a bunch of other meaningless data I can't think of at the moment (16 cannels in all)

What I see on the track is different than we saw in the static state in the dyno room. It's typically is 3-4 seconds into a 9 or 10 second pass before the O2 settles, EGT's peak and the motor is just pulling through the meat of the torque curve before it becomes a 'stable' 12.8. It's always pfhat (as rich as 11:1) before then even tho fuel psi drops to 1-2 psi at launch,,, and rpms are SCREAMING from 4000 to 7000 through the 1-2 shift with the 3spd in the truck... things just really don't 'calm down' and stabilyze at 12.8 until she is in high gear, the chassis has calmed sown, and she is pulling through the meat of the power band.

Again with a advance distributor you may see some wild movement in the early O2 readout,, but once she is in high gear and RPM's are up into the zone for your cam,, I'd target 12.8

[Orange67SWB]

I would have never thought of filming my tach and o2 readout to review later.
Thats awesome!
I did get my FAST meter back today. My buddy had it for over a year and never used it... also never brought it back.
I forgot I even had one until Marv brought it up.

What size exhaust would you guys recomend for a street strip truck?
I currently have 1 5/8 headers and 2.25 exhaust out the back.
I have on my short "to do" list, a 2.5 exhaust.

[Marv D]

Exhaust is a BIG issue on a nitrous boosted motor. I would guess your not far off for n/a around 2.5" true duals,, but start throwing a 100 shot at it and you start increasing the exhaust gasses by boatloads. The way to find if the exhaust is terribly restrictive is to take it off for a pass or two.

[Jon01]

Needs more converter. Fix that and report back.
I would also think real hard about a shorter slick too. A 26" tire sure won't hurt.

Start small on the spray and see how it goes. If this is your first time bottlefeeding something you don't want to jump right in.

[GaryLarson]

Looks good. i have a couple ? if you dont mind. what tire size u running. looks like a 295/50/15 rear? front? what your back spacing. thanks

[Orange67SWB]

Originally Posted by GaryLarson

Looks good. i have a couple ? if you dont mind. what tire size u running. looks like a 295/50/15 rear? front? what your back spacing. thanks

Yes, the rears are 295/50/15 with 10 inch wide Wheel Vintique rallies and they are 5 inch backspace, but I had to put a 1/4 inch spacer begind the wheel because they rubbed on the inner wheel well.

The fronts are 235/60/15 with 8 inch wheels and 4 inch backspace.

[Orange67SWB]

Originally Posted by Jon01

Needs more converter. Fix that and report back.
I would also think real hard about a shorter slick too. A 26" tire sure won't hurt.

Start small on the spray and see how it goes. If this is your first time bottlefeeding something you don't want to jump right in.

It will take me about 2 more weeks to finish putting the truck back together from paint, then I will swap the converter.