Carb rebuild help

[f18delta]

Just tore down the quadrajet for the second time in as many days. Still not getting any gas to the float. Here's what I've done so far:

Tore it down, replaced all the gaskets, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the needle, seat & gasket assembly, then put it all back together.

I'm getting gas to the fuel filter, but the bowl doesn't seem to want to fill up. I'm wondering if I didn't put the needle, seat & gasket assembly back together right. I have it to where the back of the float is resting on top of the assembly. There's a small piece of wire that is acting like a spring that sits under the float and on top of the needle. I can provide pictures of the part if anyone is curious.

If I'm looking at everything correctly, that would be the first line of stoppage for the gas to get to the float. Do I have it installed wrong, or am I looking in the wrong place?

[f18delta]

And for reference's sake, I bought my rebuild kit from Cliff's. If I can't get it running today, I'll be calling him tomorrow for some assistance.

[geezer#99]

You might have the wire clip that holds the float in place in wrong.
Here's a link or two for you.
http://www.vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...#Trouble_spots

[f18delta]

I believe that's what I was looking for. If I'm reading it right, the spring that sits on top of the needle valve is connected to the back of the float assembly. That would make sense on why there's no gas getting into the bowl. Thanks!

[f18delta]

OK. One more time.....

Got it all back together, it starts, and it runs. However, it won't ever idle down and backfires when I shut it off. I'm wondering if it's because I have this reassembled incorrectly.

Does where the solid arrow go in front of or behind this assembly?

[geezer#99]

Looks right. THat green rod is just the secondary damper.
THere's a high idle screw under your solid arrow down at the bottom. Philips head accessible from the front under the choke pulloff pot.
THe backfire when shutting off is caused by too high of an idle keeping the throttle plate open. THere's a couple cures for that but check the high idle screw first.

[f18delta]

Haven't turned any of the adjustment screws yet. Just got it back together and was hoping it would idle down at some point. Engine gets warm, but it never idles down like it did before the rebuild.

See that green part that the solid arrow is pointing at? Is that supposed to be behind the metal piece that's under the adjustment screw that the other arrow is pointing to? I'll see if I can get a better picture if you need one.

[geezer#99]

Yes it is. Looks like you got it on the wrong side. That screw is supposed to push on it to adjust the opening of your choke plate.

[f18delta]

Ok, so now that it's in the right spot, and it still isn't idling down, would it hurt to pull the electrical connection to the choke off to see if it will allow it to idle down?

[geezer#99]

THat lever with the Y marked on it. Can you push it down and see if the idle drops.
Take a pic of your motor hot and running.

[f18delta]

Here's a close up of how it's set up now. Started it once and it ran rough for about 10 seconds. Had to shut it off and now it won't restart. The primary flap will only open up a small amount now as well. Before, it wouldn't close.

The lever with the Y on it doesn't move much if any at the moment. If I flip that green piece back on the other side, it should. But then I'm screwed as far as the fast idle speed.

[geezer#99]

Flip it over on the other side and then see if the Y lever will push down.

[f18delta]

That Y tab isn't moving with the green lever flipped either. Does it need to be running in order to get it to move?
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[geezer#99]

Should move any time. Normally it's all the way down. Take a quick pic of how you have the green lever now. Just so we're on the same page.

[f18delta]

Here's how I have it now:

[geezer#99]

I'm grabbin' at straws now. You must have something put back together wrong.
How far apart did you tear this carb apart?
Here's another link to some original manuals.
THere's a diagram farther down the pages that shows it should go togethor. Loook in the rochestor E4ME-E4MC section.
http://www.carburetor-blog.com/?page_id=335

[f18delta]

I'm at the same spot. Thanks again for all your help!

[geezer#99]

Pull the choke coil out. See if it makes things work. Could be hung up in there.
If all else fails then pm me your number. We'll figure it out on the phone. I've got unlimited long distance.

[f18delta]

Tore it back down and am looking at what seems to be a bent primary needle holder. Not sure if that's the cause of my issues, but I know it isn't helping. What are the chances of getting one from the local store? I'm thinking no...
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[geezer#99]

Junkyard spare parts carb. Best 10 bucks you'll ever spend.

[57rookie]

I agree. Go to the junk yard and pull a Qjet off and rob the parts or bolt it up. If it does not go to low idle after warming it up and pressing the accelerator pedal to kick it down to idle then either the idle screw is turned in too much or something is not working properly, i.e. broken or put together wrong. Geezer just helped me with my carb adjustment but it was in good condition to begin with having low original miles. A reman Qjet could be the remedy here.

[f18delta]

Got it working again. I think your clue to the Y tab was the biggest issue. I tore it apart one last time and got it back together. Checked to make sure that the Y tab was free this time around. Guess that was the issue. Thanks again! Now I'm quite certain that I could tear one of these things down for time!
Posted via Mobile Device

[geezer#99]

Excellent!!
Another happy customer!! LOL!!!

[f18delta]

One last (hopefully) question:

I didn't tear the choke apart at all. I'm second guessing myself at this point on that decision now because I'm having issues with the truck idling high for a long time. If I hit the throttle once it's warmed up, sometimes it will idle down to the correct range and other times it will idle down too far and run way too rich.

There have been a couple of times now where it ran so rich a coworker behind me could smell the gas pouring through while we were at a stop light. Between that, the backfiring while it's running rich, and getting worse gas mileage now than what I was getting prior to the rebuild, would it be better to just replace choke thermostat and choke pull off?

I tested the pull off when I had it off the carb by depressing it completely and capping the hose with my finger. It never moved, so I assumed it was good.