The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > General Truck Forums > Suspension

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-02-2003, 10:57 AM   #1
eaglelox
Member Dude
 
eaglelox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: reno,nv,usa
Posts: 191
4 inch lift blocks vs's springs

4 inch lift blocks vs's springs
ok i have heard al sorts. blocks are better for towing and heavy loads. spring lift way better for drivelines. blocks can get knocked off and break drive lines when wheeling. springs ride better. blocks are cheaper. springs cant take the weight of towing....

i sure would like to know. i have the blocks, thinking about changing them. but i dont want to if i dont have to. 95 % on the road, 2 % off road, 2% in driveway getting worked on.
__________________
Steve

1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350
Eaglelox@Hotmail.com
eaglelox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2003, 11:44 AM   #2
Stocker
20' Daredevil (Ret)
 
Stocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,722
In my opinion - and I'll be interested to see what others say - definitely springs. More costly, but a lot better. You'll want to know the capacity of the springs, especially if you are towing/hauling heavy loads.
__________________
- Mike -

1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205

RIP El Jay
Stocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2003, 02:21 PM   #3
Linus0014
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
You get what you pay for!!!!! Cheaper blocks, more expensive springs.....Springs are made for the truck, blocks are used but factory never put blocks in. So why spend the $$$$ and buy lifted springs that are made and fit for the truck. I'd even look at lifted shackles or reversed ones.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2003, 05:29 PM   #4
71Subman
Registered User
 
71Subman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Everett, Wa
Posts: 138
Done it both ways

I just finished lifting my sub (71 1/2 ton) with a SkyJacker spring kit. I previously owned a 72 K5 and lifted it with blocks. The springs are a little more money (about $200 difference), but the ride is much closer to stock (stiffness wise). Also, (this may be a K5 concern, not Sub) when I used the blocks, the pin/pin hole in the blocks was offset and required paying attention to a left/right block (which I didn't and wound up driving diagonally for a couple of weeks.) My springs on the sub were exactly the same part for both sides, so I couldn't screw it up. Definitely look at Summit for the parts. I got 4" spring lift + Shocks + steering arm + S/H = $867....and no sales tax!!
__________________
Noise Makin', Gas Gusslin', Big Ass Metal Monster!

1983 3/4 4x4 P/U (the Sub is gone)
1967 Firebird (Drag racer)
1967 Firebird (resto in progress)
1999 Camry (Wifey's econo-rail )
1997 VW Jetta (Daughter's cruiser)
1989 Le Mans (just extra for the boys to drive)
71Subman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2003, 02:14 PM   #5
charlieo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: sw
Posts: 341
blocks & springs

I wonder why some of the newer trucks(Dodge,Ford) I've seen have stock blocks ? They can't be all that bad
charlieo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2003, 03:36 PM   #6
SWEET7T
Try spinnin 4 rear tars
 
SWEET7T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 757
If you use blocks, you will get more spring wrap. Not really a bad thing, but can cause your rearend to hop when you hammer it and the tires break loose.
On stock newer trucks... Yes they have blocks, but they usually aren't very tall. When you put a larger block on there, this creates more leverage on the spring to cause it to wrap into a 'S'.
What do I say... Well it depends on your budget. Lift shackels will only lift the truck half as much as they are long. Say you added a shackle that was 3" longer than stock, it will lift your truck 1.5". The longer shackles will hang down, and if the get long they can look pretty tacky.
From what you have said on how your drive your truck, IMO I would go with a combination of springs and a block (2-3" springs + 2" block).
Just remember not to use blocks on your front axle!!! Not a good idea/illegal.
__________________
SWEET7T
1970 C10, 2wd, LB, 307/TH350/3.08. PS, PB
SWEET7T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2003, 01:32 AM   #7
soleeagle
Registered User
 
soleeagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Shelbyville, Indiana
Posts: 614
Quote:
Just remember not to use blocks on your front axle!!! Not a good idea/illegal. [/B]
Yeah tell me about it, when I bought my truck i didnt realize it had them. When I realized it it scared the hell out of me untill I got them out. I didnt know it was illegal till i started looking around for a lift kit.
__________________
Chuck

'85 Chevy Silverado 4X4
'91 Chevy 4X4 Suburban



http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/545941
soleeagle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2003, 11:08 AM   #8
eaglelox
Member Dude
 
eaglelox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: reno,nv,usa
Posts: 191
wow. never even heard of them being put in front.
__________________
Steve

1978 K20 Burb, 4" lift, 33's, 350
Eaglelox@Hotmail.com
eaglelox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2003, 12:31 PM   #9
JIMs70GMC
user # 2756
 
JIMs70GMC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
Split the difference, My truck had a 1" block from the factory, I removed it and added an add-a-leaf and a 2" tapered block. Also, if you need to relocate your axle forward or rearward ORD has zero rates that bolt to the spring pack that provide a little lift and the ability to move the axle front or back. It would be ok for the front since it has a bolt going through it and not relying on the u-bolts to stay put.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
JIMs70GMC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com