TF Headlight connector source

[OrrieG]

Main front harness to headlight harness connector at the inner fender panel. Does anyone know where you can get these? Lots of places to get the other side and new headlight bucket wiring. I can get two regular slide connectors to work but it is very visible. Has any one just pushed out the old slide guts and put new ones in? Thanks

[NEWFISHER]

I found that Napa had some hard to find connectors, but it took a trip into the store and thumbing through the catalogue
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[dwcsr]

Try
http://www.wiringharness.com/

or

http://www.lectriclimited.com/main_body.htm

if they don't have it they may know who does

[OrrieG]

Newfisher - I spend so much time a NAPA they gave me a catalog a couple of years ago.

DWSR - I looked at the links and they didn't have them. I'm gonig to hit another electrical place that rebuilds generators, etc. They have a good counter guy and have been in business long enough they might have some stashed away.

[OrrieG]

Problem solved! If you slide in a thin flat piece of metal from the plug side it releases a raised clip that holds the slide connector in place, it pulls out the wire side. I took it to my specialty old time shop and the guy had 8 setting on the self and said he could order more if I needed them.

[1project2many]

I've mentioned those spade connectors before. They're GM 56 series terminals. I keep them in stock in different sizes for different gauge wire. The flat portion that's folded over inside the two rolled edges will make a very good contact with the mating terminal. They're much more reliable than "regular" parts store terminals because of this and they carry more current without overheating. They're available through almost anyone selling Standard products including Carquest and Napa.

Standard Ignition part nos are CG7 / TA708 for a female side 14-16 GA and CG8 / TA709 for a matching male terminal. There's also a plastic connector to house the female terminal, CG45 / TA710. I often buy terminals from Digi-Key because they have more variety in stock, but unfortunately they have a minimum order so they're no good for onesie-twosies.

Keep in mind almost all factory spade terminals in your truck will be this type. The only major differences are going to be wire gauge and material (brass vs galvanized steel). Again, I get most of these terminals from Digi-key because they have most of the varieties.

[OrrieG]

Thanks for the numbers, especially the plastic holder. Mine are ok, but I haven't taken all the wire out yet. I don't know what brand my guy had, but as soon as he saw it he told his assistant the number from memory and where they were. I got the last 8 he had, and he said he would order 50 more in his next shipment. I suspect a lot of GM guys show up looking for them.

[Russell Ashley]

Sounds like you have a good source for wiring supplies now but here's a good alternative place if your local guy doesn't have something you need.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com
This is where I got my terminals that I couldn't find locally. Do you have a crimping tool for those open barrel terminals? Clips and fasteners sells them but theirs are a little pricey.

[_Ogre]

i reused all of my old connectors too orrieg, if the gm56 number doesn't work try packard 56. our napa had them as packard 56 connectors. i bought the correct double crimp tool to wire my truck, but you can crimp and solder them too. though some of the plugs it's hard to get back into the plug without the proper crimp. same crimp tool for gm weather pac plugs.

[1project2many]

Channel Lock and others sell a crimper that produces decent results for these terminals although like Ogre said it often helps to solder them also. ChannelLock 909 isn't too expensive for a guy that doesn't want to get too invested in electrical tools.
http://www.channellock.com/909-THE-C...ping-Tool.aspx
I've had one of these in my road call toolbox since 1993 and if I lost it I would be very unhappy.

I have a few different crimpers here at the house. I've bought some that cost hundreds of dollars when new from a local electronics and industrial surplus place for $30 - $40 each. http://www.esssurplus.com/id2.html Notice the RH photo. New crimpers hanging up, used industrial versions in bins below. Inventory changes frequently.

I have a couple of pair of crimpers from the Snap-On truck at work that are made by SG Tool Aid. These have changeable jaws and are very versatile but they can be a pain to use if you're working with different terminals and you're in a hurry so I've got them set up with different jaws to save time. Look for numbers 18920 and 18960.

There's also a handy tool for working with terminals to release various locks and pins:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=584

This is a three tool set but the red 14900 is all you really need for most GM applications.

Happy wiring.

[Russell Ashley]

Seems like you are getting suggestions from all sides, with differing opinions, so let me offer mine. Those open barrel terminals are meant to be crimped a certain way and not soldered. You don't see them soldered from the factory. Here's a link to the proper tool that you need: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ope...l_p/a16004.htm

I'd be glad to loan you mine if we weren't on the opposite coasts, but you'd want one anyway after the first time you used it, LOL.

[1project2many]

You don't see them soldered from the factory.

Actually it's common to see solder, silver solder, or even laser welding in areas where stress on the wire may cause the crimp to loosen or multiple wires are placed into a single terminal. Pull apart any harness that has power or ground splices inline and you'll find a mechanical junction that represents manufacturing techniques of the day. In 1958 it was soldering.

Also remember that new terminals were generally higher quality in 1958 than they are today. I have boxes of NOS terminals and the difference between those and typical parts store pieces are obvious in weight. You can feel a difference when you apply the crimpers, too. Overseas manufacturers love to take over making small pieces in huge quantities and US companies seem willing to let that happen so the terminals you buy today may or may not be as good as the terminals you buy tomorrow.

Soldering is a good suggestion and there is a prime reason for it. It's insurance. The trick to soldering a terminal such as the ones pictured is to crimp the barrel around the conductor then bend the wire at 90 degrees so the terminal doesn't contact the insulation. Apply the solder quickly, let the terminal cool, then bend the wire back and crimp the barrel around the insulation. The solder is applied in small quantity after the crimp as a supplement.

[Divine 59]

Those spade connectors are available at any autoparts store worth their salt. They are BWD (Borg Warner Division) pieces. I also picked up some plastic male and female connectors to slide the blades into. However they do not look like the head light connectors you posted Orrie. These are more akin to a one wire connector. If someone is interested I can get the part numbers. I ordered a box of them. They were not expensive.

[_Ogre]

packard 56 terminals

[OrrieG]

Man this sure grew into a connection how to thread, lots of good information. FWIW I just use needle nose pliers to push one side, then the other on to the wires, then crimp down on both to compress them a little flatter. Hard tug on connector and wire checks the connection. I assume full wire contact with the bottom and top pieces is the desired result. On 12 and 10GA wire carring heavy current I also solder to fill the gap between the wires and connector. All of my factory wires were crimped connectors. Thanks for all the input.