re-using parts????

[draggin49]

Just purchased a c10 that has been sitting for years. Was running fine when last driven, purchased from a family friend.
Truck has 48, 000 original miles on original small block.

Im gonna pull the motor, paint the engine compartment, but I am a novice as far as what parts I should consider still using and what I should 100% replace.

Radiator??
Distributor??
Can I replace just cap/rotor? Or best suited to get a new hei?
Waterpump? Cheap part so I thought good to replace it and the thermostat.which temperature thermostat would I want for a stock motor?

Manifolds look fine, just gotta plug the holes where the smog stuff used to go .
Intake im guessing most likely ok
Stock 2 barrel?

Any other gaskets that I for sure shoud change out besides oil pan and valve cover gaskets?
Figure ill have it out the next few days so im formulating the parts list
of what I need.that way I can change the items out and drop it back in
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[JellyBeanDriver]

Biggest deal would be the gas in the tanks, lines, carb or EFI.

Radiator/cooling system - just flush and pressure test.
Maybe a thermostat for good measure. Check all the hoses and fan belts. Change the oil and filter.

Otherwise all that stuff just sitting should be just fine.

As far as plugging smog stuff, is it 1975 or older? If not they you'll need that stuff to pass smog.
Here in Ventura, we have to dyno our cars/trucks for smog testing. Don't know about Ojai.

[draggin49]

Thanks jellybeandriver,
Its a 1969 c10 so luckily no smog.
I will get all the fuel drained and make sure to install some inlime fuel filters before I refill/run new gas
Well thats a plus to know alot of stuff is useable since the budget is tight at the moment.
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[Lattimer]

I'd do new belts and hoses, and obviously all new fluids. Definitely get the old gas out. Depending on how it looks and spins, I'd probably replace the water pump as well.

I always replace the t-stat anytime I open up the cooling system. I use a 180 degree.

Distributor---I'd install an HEI, but I'm biased. I got into engines long after points were a thing of the past. Never dealt with them. You can get a complete new HEI for around $100.

Gaskets----if they are not leaking, leave them alone.

[Daddy Brim]

Off subject of your engine compartment. I would go through the brakes real good before you start driving it. Brakes have a tendency to get weak when these trucks sit.

[draggin49]

I was gonna pick up a new master cylinder or turn in the core I have to help offset cost.
Besides the master cylinder , what brake items would be smart to replace also since the truck has sat for some time?? I figure better safe than sorry.
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[draggin49]

Yeah the only gaskets.that look like they are noticeably leaking are the valve cover gaskets/oil pan gasket
The ones not leaking ill just leave them be
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[Daddy Brim]

Originally Posted by draggin49

I was gonna pick up a new master cylinder or turn in the core I have to help offset cost.
Besides the master cylinder , what brake items would be smart to replace also since the truck has sat for some time?? I figure better safe than sorry.
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I would at least replace the springs, maybe shoes, make sure no leaks. Rub drums with 600 grit sandpaper. Here is a good link for doing a brake job. http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake You should be able to get all of your parts at your local parts store.

[draggin49]

Thanks for the tips/link ill make sure to cover those items.motor /tranny should come out tomorrow.I got the battery, radiator/shroud, hoses,alternator/bracket, flex fan removed. Gotta undo the tranny, disconnect driveshaft, disconnect the 2 levers that shift gears that connect to transmission, and still gotta undo the motor mounts.

Then the fun stuff, degreasing/cleaning it all, paint prep/ then painting it all before it goes back in
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[draggin49]

Found some nice msd plug wires left over from my 69 camaro, one less item to buy haha

[Rufton]

One vote for keeping points; can work fine for decades.
Good advice above.
Brake system overhaul pretty high on my list.
Grease can dry out after roughly 20 years.
T-stat can last decades but doesn't hurt to replace; I use 195F to minimize engine wear.

[draggin49]

Any suggestions on getting bolts out of the flanges that connect the exhaust to the manifolds???
I unfortunately dont have air tools at my house.
I soaked them with PB blaster, no luck .theres little access to get any leverage to break them loose.

im not keeping the exhaust maybe cut the exhaust off close to the flanges then unbolt the manifolds and remove with flanges in place and a short length of exhaust pipe.

How many items to unbolt so the trans can come out with the motor?
I saw the 2 levers in the side.how many bolts in the crossmember? I think I saw 2 on the bottom.

Sorry , im a novice so im learning as I go with this removal.
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[draggin49]

Oh and the plug on the stock tranny isnt on the bottom, its a few inches above.will it still fully drain or am I gonna be dropping trans fluid when the driveshaft comes out?
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[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by draggin49

Oh and the plug on the stock tranny isnt on the bottom, its a few inches above.will it still fully drain or am I gonna be dropping trans fluid when the driveshaft comes out?
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I think that plug is for checking fill level. With patience--much--most can be siphoned out, but get it started as you quit for the night & then come back the next night! Also, keep tailshaft tilted up as you remove tranny--easier to do with rear end jacked up!
Sam

[bigbadchev72]

Do yourself a favor and get the one piece oil pan gasket, they are worth the money!

[draggin49]

Thanks for the heads up.ill get a 1 piece gasket for sure
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