brake bleeding problem

[dwlambert1701]

OK as mentioned before I'm restoring a 1963 Chevy C10. I replaced all the brake parts, Wheel cylinders, springs. pads, brake lines and replaced the old single bail master cylinder with a dual bail master cylinder. Now I bled the master cylinder before I attached the lines. Now I'm trying to bleed the brakes lines and I'm getting nothing. Well I'm getting air bubbles from the front left but nothing at all from the rear. The Bleeding method I'm using is connecting a hose to the bleeder and the other end is in a clear bottle half full of brake fluid turning the bleeder valve while someone presses the brakes.
I also still have drums all the way around. The master cylinder I bought is for a Disc/Drum Application could this be why as well.

[Rufton]

Disc/Drum MC not your prob. Maybe a bleeder is leaking on another wheel?

[dwlambert1701]

Originally Posted by Rufton

Disc/Drum MC not your prob. Maybe a bleeder is leaking on another wheel?

They are all tight

[Rufton]

Did MC bleed normal?
Any chance binding preventing MC piston travel?

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by dwlambert1701

OK as mentioned before I'm restoring a 1963 Chevy C10. I replaced all the brake parts, Wheel cylinders, springs. pads, brake lines and replaced the old single bail master cylinder with a dual bail master cylinder. Now I bled the master cylinder before I attached the lines. Now I'm trying to bleed the brakes lines and I'm getting nothing. Well I'm getting air bubbles from the front left but nothing at all from the rear. The Bleeding method I'm using is connecting a hose to the bleeder and the other end is in a clear bottle half full of brake fluid turning the bleeder valve while someone presses the brakes.
I also still have drums all the way around. The master cylinder I bought is for a Disc/Drum Application could this be why as well.

We've seen so many people having similar problems. The sure cure for all the strictly bleeding problems(assuming hardware is properly mated and installed)is to pressure bleed the system. It is THE one solution that seems to NEVER fail! [BTW: FWIW, I have never used this method.]
HTH,
Sam

[Rufton]

I don't have a pressure bleeder but it sure would be nice to have one that fits several mc styles. Maybe I'll shop for one some day. I have tried mighty vac but it's not very good if car has stiff rpv; does work ok on some cars.

[Zach B]

Go to an automotive parts store such as nappa. They may have a presure bleeder.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jocko]

if you can pressure bleed it - you should also be able to pedal bleed it as you describe. You shouldn't have a disk/drum mc, but that is not the cause of your bleeding problem. Either the mc piston is not depressing or something is wrong with the mc, regardless of type.

Does your truck have a power brake booster? If no, and you bought a mc for a power disk/drum setup (likely) and you don't actually have a booster (or vice versa), you will not have the proper mating between the pedal pushrod and the piston bore indentation between to receive the pushrod. Generally speaking, the pushrod "hole"in the back of the mc's piston is deep for a manual setup and shallow for a power setup. Not using the correct type can cause a mismatch. The above mentioned scenario would normally result in interference, and you wouldn't even ne able to install the mc. The opposite (i.e. power booster mated to a non-power mc) can result in the intermediate pushrod from the booster never engaging the master cyl piston. Keep in mind your pedal might feel semi-normal just because of the return spring. Are you feeling it "engage" the piston and/or booster?

If you elaborate on exactly what you have (power booster, etc) and whether or not the dual res mc is for power or manual - then might be able to assist further.

Bottom line - if I have all drums all the way around, and no power booster - I swap the single reservoir mc for a 67 dual reservoir NON-power master cylinder. The pedal doesn't even need to be adjusted in that case. If a booster comes into the picture though, then you need the right mc for it and need to carefully ensure you have the correct intermediate length pushrod in between the booster and mc. Generally speaking, the intermediate rod is ALWAYS a shorty - and that is why power mc's require a shallow bore mc piston (the bore that receives the input pushrod - from the pedal or the booster).

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Rufton

I don't have a pressure bleeder but it sure would be nice to have one that fits several mc styles. Maybe I'll shop for one some day. I have tried mighty vac but it's not very good if car has stiff rpv; does work ok on some cars.

Google for plans to make one cheap.
Sam

[aerotruk63]

You might also ask around old truck repair places. I ended up finding one to bleed one of my trucks. I tnen made one up out of a section of pipe and some plate steel as a cover for the master. They work at 5 psi. Used a inner tube as a gasket between the master and bleeder cover. An O-ring seals the bolt to screw it to the master but a spring will work as well.

[dwlambert1701]

Originally Posted by jocko

if you can pressure bleed it - you should also be able to pedal bleed it as you describe. You shouldn't have a disk/drum mc, but that is not the cause of your bleeding problem. Either the mc piston is not depressing or something is wrong with the mc, regardless of type.

Does your truck have a power brake booster? If no, and you bought a mc for a power disk/drum setup (likely) and you don't actually have a booster (or vice versa), you will not have the proper mating between the pedal pushrod and the piston bore indentation between to receive the pushrod. Generally speaking, the pushrod "hole"in the back of the mc's piston is deep for a manual setup and shallow for a power setup. Not using the correct type can cause a mismatch. The above mentioned scenario would normally result in interference, and you wouldn't even ne able to install the mc. The opposite (i.e. power booster mated to a non-power mc) can result in the intermediate pushrod from the booster never engaging the master cyl piston. Keep in mind your pedal might feel semi-normal just because of the return spring. Are you feeling it "engage" the piston and/or booster?

If you elaborate on exactly what you have (power booster, etc) and whether or not the dual res mc is for power or manual - then might be able to assist further.

Bottom line - if I have all drums all the way around, and no power booster - I swap the single reservoir mc for a 67 dual reservoir NON-power master cylinder. The pedal doesn't even need to be adjusted in that case. If a booster comes into the picture though, then you need the right mc for it and need to carefully ensure you have the correct intermediate length pushrod in between the booster and mc. Generally speaking, the intermediate rod is ALWAYS a shorty - and that is why power mc's require a shallow bore mc piston (the bore that receives the input pushrod - from the pedal or the booster).

Right Stuff#965-DBMC02
GM Cast Iron Master Cylinder
Bore: 1-1/8"
Disc/Drum Applications
Shallow Pocket
Dual Bail
is the one I bought no booster

[Rufton]

I'd probably try bleeding MC again into MC reservoir using brake pedal.

[Blue_Aura]

Originally Posted by jocko

if you can pressure bleed it - you should also be able to pedal bleed it as you describe. You shouldn't have a disk/drum mc, but that is not the cause of your bleeding problem. Either the mc piston is not depressing or something is wrong with the mc, regardless of type.

Does your truck have a power brake booster? If no, and you bought a mc for a power disk/drum setup (likely) and you don't actually have a booster (or vice versa), you will not have the proper mating between the pedal pushrod and the piston bore indentation between to receive the pushrod. Generally speaking, the pushrod "hole"in the back of the mc's piston is deep for a manual setup and shallow for a power setup. Not using the correct type can cause a mismatch. The above mentioned scenario would normally result in interference, and you wouldn't even ne able to install the mc. The opposite (i.e. power booster mated to a non-power mc) can result in the intermediate pushrod from the booster never engaging the master cyl piston. Keep in mind your pedal might feel semi-normal just because of the return spring. Are you feeling it "engage" the piston and/or booster?

If you elaborate on exactly what you have (power booster, etc) and whether or not the dual res mc is for power or manual - then might be able to assist further.

Bottom line - if I have all drums all the way around, and no power booster - I swap the single reservoir mc for a 67 dual reservoir NON-power master cylinder. The pedal doesn't even need to be adjusted in that case. If a booster comes into the picture though, then you need the right mc for it and need to carefully ensure you have the correct intermediate length pushrod in between the booster and mc. Generally speaking, the intermediate rod is ALWAYS a shorty - and that is why power mc's require a shallow bore mc piston (the bore that receives the input pushrod - from the pedal or the booster).

So question for you... I am adding a power booster/dual M/C combo to my 62 that used to be a manual. With Captain Fab's bracket to mount the booster, will I need to lengthen the stock pushrod or shorten it?
Posted via Mobile Device

[kingburnett]

You said that you got a MC for a disc/drum setup, but your truck is a drum/drum setup truck. You didn't install a proportioning valve on it did you. That should not be needed.

[Blue_Aura]

Originally Posted by kingburnett

You said that you got a MC for a disc/drum setup, but your truck is a drum/drum setup truck. You didn't install a proportioning valve on it did you. That should not be needed.

On mine, I bought a power booster with dual M/C attached from ORiellys for a 67-70 C10. From what I understood, those either have a built-in proportion valve or do not need it. I have drum/drum. The new M/C has 9/16" fitting on it and the front has a 5/16" fitting.
Posted via Mobile Device

[dwlambert1701]

Originally Posted by kingburnett

You said that you got a MC for a disc/drum setup, but your truck is a drum/drum setup truck. You didn't install a proportioning valve on it did you. That should not be needed.

No proportion valve