Clutch... Now you see it, Now you don't and Back

[BAT]

I am new to the '60 - '66 trucks and have my first '66. It's has a IN6 with 3 on the tree and has been sitting in a barn for the past 25 years. I now have the engine running like a fine tuned machine and just need to fix a pin hole in a brake line and will be ready to try it on the road.

So the other day I slowly drove it from where it is sitting in to the shop with no issues. Tried 1st and reverse and both worked perfectly. All I did was try to fill the master cylinder and located the brake line leak and nothing else. When I went to move it back to where it was I had no clutch what so ever. I ran out of time so we pushed it back to where it was and left it assuming that the clutch just went out.

Last night was was tinkering in the shop and decided to go out and see how my '66 was doing. She started right up and now I have clutch?!? WTF?!? I don't know a lot about clutches and am no mechanic but I can tackle just about anything with a little research direction. Any suggestions on what to check? I was thinking that I need a new clutch but don't want to spend the time and money if there is something else I should be checking first.

Thanks in advance, you guys are awesome!!!

BAT

[Sharps40]

The friction disc or clutch springs prolly sticks after. 25 year sit. Disassemble, inspect and either clean or replace parts
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[Rufton]

The pin hole in brake line may be God's warning that it is now the time to replace.

I suggest replacing 3 finger pressure plate w/ diaphragm. I have done clutch job on 66 w/o a jack; relatively easy. I'd replace some bushings too.

[BAT]

Originally Posted by Rufton

The pin hole in brake line may be God's warning that it is now the time to replace.

I suggest replacing 3 finger pressure plate w/ diaphragm. I have done clutch job on 66 w/o a jack; relatively easy. I'd replace some bushings too.

Replacing the brake line tomorrow. Has anyone seen a write up here for clutch r&r? Guess I need to do a search

[cortcomp]

It's a pretty standard job.

Get the driveshaft out, disconnect whatever shifter linkages you have (take a picture with your phone if you want a referenced on which way what pointed what, etc. Then, disconnect the clutch pedal to release fork linkage. Now we're ready to work.

take out the 4 tranny to bellhousing bolts.

support the motor but not by the bell (this isn't the right way, but, i'd just put a block on a floor jack and jack up against the oil pan GENTLY.)

take out the bell housing crossmember mounts.

unbolt the bellhousing, set it aside.

unbolt the pressure plate and it and the friction disc will come out.

using the provided alignment tool with new clutch kit, put the friction disc in the pressure plate, and tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel evenly all the way around, the way you'd do a wheel (don't just impact it down one bolt at a time, twisting it.)

put er all back together.

Now, when i take things apart, i like to go the extra mile. So if it were me, i'd resurface the flywheel, and put a new pilot bushing or bearing in there, and i always opt for the heavy duty release bearing, they're better and sturdier than the thin ones in the kit. But then again, guys have been slapping a clutch kit in with no new bushing and the provided throw out bearing and no resurfacing for years and years without issues, i just like everything to be silky smooth and perfect.

check the gear oil in the tranny while you're under there and when done. also, being a six cylinder, i think you'll need a 10 1/2 clutch kit, 10 spline 1 1/8 shaft, but don't hold me to it. One of the cheapest kits out there. I like the valeo ones for street use, but i imagine anything would work fine.


When i converted my 71 a-body to stick, my father in law and i could have the tranny out, clutch out, flywheel off, and all back together, in about an hour. From pulling in, doing it, to pulling out and test driving and swearing because we still had release issues. And the A body is WAY tighter fit and PITA than our trucks. Good luck! it will make sense when you get under there, and adjust the clutch when done too.

[BAT]

Awesome write up, thanks much. Sounds like a job I can definitely handle.

Stupid question but do I just measure the existing clutch with a tape measure to determine it's size?
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[Rufton]

Take the clutch and pressure plate to da store for match up. Pay attention to spline protrusion from clutch (chevy and jimmy sometimes differ). Note positioning of throw out bearing vs fork before removal; new setup needs similar geometry.