What now??!!

[ah_5500]

I recently got an old Chevrolet. Not sure of the year but it is not a 5 window. It is a complete total truck pretty much, but in rough shape. I have three questions as of now.
How do I know what year it is?
How do I convert it from a 6v to 12v? Assuming these trucks are 6v?
what should be my steps be to try to get the old rusty original straight 6 running again?

[Dan in Pasadena]

1st: Did you get a title? ANY paperwork with is truck? Check it for model year.
2nd: Explore this forum using the "Search" button for your topics
3rd: Post photos of your truck so we can advise you.
4th: NOT trying to chap your ass but there are some basics to cover before posting.

Best of luck.
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[ah_5500]

No paper work. And everybody loves pictures but you don't need them to help a guy out with getting a truck running that's been sitting. Plus I can't find this forum on tapatalk so I don't have much luck on posting pics. Sorry
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[gale]

Does it have the factory plate on the driver's side door jamb? That would have a VIN to easily identify it.

You're further along than I am, I have no idea of what tapatalk is.

[ah_5500]

No vin tag.... Tapatalk is the best way to forum via mobil devices. Ie: phone iPad etc.
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[arturo7]

Stamping on the frame; left front, above the axle.

[ah_5500]

Thanks! Ill look for it tomorrow.
Next big issue, what's the best and safest way to start getting this thing ready to fire up!?
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[Rude Dude]

Your questions are very vague, Guy first thing if its is a six cylinder get a servive manual. Then check battery, all your fluids, check if gas or carb need service, are fuel lines clog with rust?. This is all basic common sense stuff it may seem daunting and tedious but getting your hands dirty makes it fun. Good luck

[solidaxel]

Tell us if you have:
Spark
Compression
Fuel

[OrrieG]

Welcome to the forum. Here is a helpful link on getting it started. There are half a dozen threads that discuss it.

http://www.google.com/custom?domains...D%3A1%3B&hl=en

If after a reasonable try you need help trouble shooting post some more. stovebolts.com has a good tech article on the 6 to 12 volt conversion and vin decoding.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Your questions are very vague, Guy first thing if its is a six cylinder get a servive manual. Then check battery, all your fluids, check if gas or carb need service, are fuel lines clog with rust?. This is all basic common sense stuff it may seem daunting and tedious but getting your hands dirty makes it fun. Good luck

Okay Rudy, "stop picking at the little stuff the guy just got it...."

Sound familiar?

[Russell Ashley]

How long has it been sitting? Is the engine complete with plugs and plug wires still intact, and carb still there? Have you tried to turn the engine over to see if it's stuck? Does it still have oil in the crankcase? If it's all complete under the hood, and the engine will turn over by hand, I think I'd squirt some oil into the cylinders, rig up a gas supply with fresh gas, add a battery, and see what happens. Wouldn't hurt to spin it over some with the spark plugs out before trying to start it.

[gale]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

How long has it been sitting? Is the engine complete with plugs and plug wires still intact, and carb still there? Have you tried to turn the engine over to see if it's stuck? Does it still have oil in the crankcase? If it's all complete under the hood, and the engine will turn over by hand, I think I'd squirt some oil into the cylinders, rig up a gas supply with fresh gas, add a battery, and see what happens. Wouldn't hurt to spin it over some with the spark plugs out before trying to start it.

It's important to remove the plugs, squirt oil in, and see if the engine will turn by hand as other parts could be stuck and the power of the starter will ruin them. Use a penetrant like Kroil on valve stems, lifters, etc. before so it has a better chance of turning over.

[ah_5500]

Thanks for the great ideas. I will be heading into this project in the next week or two and liek to have my ducks in a row. I will try to upload a picture later.

Thank you

[Zach B]

Identifying features for you.
Late 47-48 gas tank under bed protruding from pasenger side on all of that body style.
49-50 gas tank is in cab.
51 a unique year because it was the first year with wing windows but also had the earlier pull down handle.
52-53 the dore handle now has a push button and blocks in on both ends
54 new grill now instead of being strait bars it configures all the way around the fenders with a bar going across,
Early 55 first year for open drive line.
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[JR25]

I went thru the exact same thing with the one I am working on now. I couldnt figure out how to turn my by hand, but now I know the best investment is a cheap puller set like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html
You can set it up like you are going to pull the harmonic balancer, and use the screw in studs to put a cheater bar between and turn!
I read an article somewhere something like "bringing an old engine back to life" or something like that. I feel like I wasted a ton of money and time on the engine when I first got my truck, knowing I would probablly pull it and rebuild it anyway! What are your long term plans anyway? If I could go back and start over, I would have pulled the engine, not caring if it would even turn over because I would have still kept the truck, put it in the corner, and got the body work done. Then disassembled the body and safely stored it away,easy to do with these old trucks, and started to work on the frame, fuel tank, brakes, shocks, springs, etc.
Sometime during the process, like while waiting on paint to dry, I would have pulled the head off of the ole 6 banger and checked the condition of the cylinders. Make a decision if it needed to be bored out, needed new rings, etc. If so, strip down the engine EXCEPT THE ROUNDED OFF BOLT HEADS THAT HOLD THE OIL PUMP RETENTION COLLAR IN THE BLOCK (see my build thread...... close call) and get it to a machine shop, or order a new complete gasket set depending on what the engine needs!

Sorry, started going back in time there! I went pretty much completely backwards than how i just explained it! I was set on getting my engine to run, to find out that once I tore it down, it wouldnt likely have happened! Then I removed the body and rebuilt the frame while waiting on the machine shop. Now it is dusty, has overspray on it, and I havent even started the body work! The body work is gonna be messy Im sure, which means my beautiful engine that I have spent so much time on will need A LOT of tlc when everything is done, because NO, I dont plan on pulling that 10 ton engine just to do body work!
That being said, be careful, these inline 6s weigh more than small block Chevy V8s!

Have fun!


PS: if you are going to try and start it now, do as advised and run a temp fuel supply with fresh gas to the fuel pump down low on passenger side of block, pull plugs, and pour Marvel Mystery oil thru the spark plug holes on top of the pistons, remove the valve cover and spray the rocker assemblies and valves with PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil. Let it set overnight, see if it will turn by hand before you hit the starter! And finally, remove the distributor, carefully noting where it is clocked (what cylinder it is ready to fire on) and prime the oil pump. You can buy a tool for this, or go to a cheap China tool place like Harbor Freight and buy one of those super long flat head screw drivers for 5 bucks or less, cut the handle off, and chuck it up in your drill! Stick it down into the hole that the distributor came out of, and run it clockwise until you see oil coming out of the rocker assemblies! When you put the dist. back in, make sure it goes all the way in so that the bottom engages the oil pump (might have to turn the oil pump with a flathead to where it was) and make sure the the dist. is clocked to the correct cylinder............
Stomp the starter!
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[JR25]

Oh yeah...... To determine which engine..... Start here:
http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/chevy_parts.html
Scroll down to this section:

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[gale]

Originally Posted by JR25

I went thru the exact same thing with the one I am working on now. I couldnt figure out how to turn my by hand,

There are lots of ways to turn an engine by hand. The easiest is a tool that grabs the ring gear on the flywheel. This tool is used by automatic transmission mechanics since the transmission is always pulled from the bottom.

The tool works just as well on a flywheel with a clutch and standard transmission. If you have help you can shift into high gear, jack up one rear wheel, and try to turn the wheel.

[gale]

Originally Posted by JR25

done, because NO, I dont plan on pulling that 10 ton engine just to do body work!
That being said, be careful, these inline 6s weigh more than small block Chevy V8s!

"That being said" is just anecdotal exaggeration. My '54 has a 350 and my '67 has a 292 and I just recently pulled them both and each is mounted on a cheap roll-around engine cradle. I don't notice any difference in weight.

Avoid a lot of grief and pull the engine. Then put it on a cradle so it can be rolled out the way and covered up.

[JR25]

Originally Posted by gale

"That being said" is just anecdotal exaggeration. My '54 has a 350 and my '67 has a 292 and I just recently pulled them both and each is mounted on a cheap roll-around engine cradle. I don't notice any difference in weight.

Avoid a lot of grief and pull the engine. Then put it on a cradle so it can be rolled out the way and covered up.

I know I should, but you know yourself how big a PITA it is! I do really need a cradle for it though, I WILL NOT pull the clutch/flywheel just to remove the bell housing, just to hang it on my dinky stand again either!! I might contemplate building a cradle that would hold the engine and tranny.......hmmm....
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[gale]

Originally Posted by JR25

I might contemplate building a cradle that would hold the engine and tranny..

I can fabricate just about anything but Northern Tool had a sale on for $29.95 so I bought two. If you borrow their design it is a simple job. They use cheap cast iron casters and they roll better on rough concrete. The nylon casters need a smooth surface.

The inline 6 has the same mount as the V8 on the left side. The right mount is forward a few inches. I made a simple plate that picked up 3 holes.

[JR25]

Originally Posted by gale

I can fabricate just about anything but Northern Tool had a sale on for $29.95 so I bought two. If you borrow their design it is a simple job. They use cheap cast iron casters and they roll better on rough concrete. The nylon casters need a smooth surface.

The inline 6 has the same mount as the V8 on the left side. The right mount is forward a few inches. I made a simple plate that picked up 3 holes.

Sweet! I will take a look! Thanks
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