Driveshafts

[Billett]

What are you guys running with the swaps? I have a mild 6.0L with a 4l80. I was quoted $300 to resize the stock driveshaft, add "performance u joints" which I would hope are the 1350s, and replace the carrier bearing. I feel like for that much I would rather spend a bit more for a new one. I'm not going carbon fiber as nice as that would be, but I'm thinking a one piece aluminum or chromoly from PST right now.
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[truckdude239]

I paid 60 dollars to shorten mine plus 40 buxs for u joints and 20 for a new carrier bearing

[Billett]

Damn. Looks like he's trying to rip me off big time. Thanks for the heads up

[Blackpony]

The driveshaft shop I use, quoted me $125 to rebuild my stock driveshaft. That includes ensuring it is straight, balancing it and installing heavy duty u joints. Or $250 for a new steel shaft or $375 for a new aluminum shaft.

[71chevystep4x4]

Mine was $118, dropped it off in the evening, and it was ready the next day. They even painted it and put a sticker on it. Obviously it depends on what shop you take it to.

[Billett]

It looks like I may just be finding a different shop. I just took some measurements and it looks like its 41" from the rear u joint to where the carrier bearing mounts to in front of the cross member, but 71" from the rear to the flat of the trans.

Just under 6' is pretty long for a driveshaft... I'll call PST tomorrow to see what they think.
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[Blackpony]

It seems that way, but the new chevy, ford and dodge trucks all come with a one piece usually aluminum ds. If you get a long bed crew cab, those suckers are close to 7' long!!

[BR3W CITY]

I paid about $140-60 for a custom length shaft with the correct ends, built thick wall (rated to 800+hp) with performance (read non-zerg) u joints.

[truckdude239]

They had me measure from the stub stinkout out of tran to the center of the first bolt hole onine
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[Billett]

Brew city, did you get yours done locally? Also did anyone need to clearance the cross member for a larger diameter shaft? My is only lowered about 2", so the angle shouldn't change much.
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[Billett]

Apparently PST won't make me a one piece from steel or aluminum that's 6' long. Their two piece steel was $550. Looks like I'm on the hunt for another shop...
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[Jon01]

My new shaft was $300 stem to stern.

If you do go 1pc you will probably need to remove the mount for the carrier bearing that sticks down from the x-member or it might rub under suspension compression.
It's an easy job with the air chisel or plasma cutter.

[Billett]

Yeah I was planning on it if I went one piece but I don't think I will. I found a shop that will rebuild and cut mine for $140, but a one piece would be in the high $300 range from there. I don't think I'm running enough power to warrant anything more than stock steel with stronger joints. I like to do it right the first time but in this case I'm already almost 2 grand over where I wanted to be with this project. I'm just glad this is the last major thing I need to buy.
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[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Billett

Brew city, did you get yours done locally? Also did anyone need to clearance the cross member for a larger diameter shaft? My is only lowered about 2", so the angle shouldn't change much.
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Mine was made by A1 driveshaft in Milwaukee. Its a sh!thole in the hood but damn they can make a beefy shaft.

Mine is lowered well over 4" and I have no clearance issues. The shaft is not noticeably larger, i think the wall thickness is "inward", meaning the I.d. would be smaller if you cut it ope, but the wall thickness is greater

[Blackpony]

I measured the factory driveshaft on a new dodge 1500 yesterday. It is factory aluminum and measures 71'' center of cap to center of cap. Might be able to find a used one and get it cut down...

[Billett]

That's awesome to know. The shop I dropped it off at is giving me a quote tomorrow so if its still as steep as the other place I'll keep that in mind.
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