Krylon Interior Paint Durability?

[racecougar]

The time has come to pick an interior paint for the '65 C10 we're working on (build thread here). I've noticed that quite a few of you have used the Krylon Brushed Metallic Satin Champagne Nouveau as it's a close match to the factory Fawn Metallic. We've been considering the same paint in another shade, Satin Nickel.

Since it's labeled as an "indoor" paint rather than outdoor/automotive/etc., I'd just like to hear from some of you that have used this paint in regards to how well it is holding up. I sure don't want to end up doing this job twice.

Thanks in advance for any real world feedback!

[ChuckW]

Can't say how it will work for you. But, I used some Krylon in my engine compartment and it's holding up very well. It was not interrior grade however.
Honestly, I've had much better luck with rust-oleum. Takes a while to dry and set but holds up very well!

Good luck with whatever you do!

[racecougar]

Yep, I'm no stranger to Rustoleum. We just painted the rockers, cab corners, floor pans, bed, tailgate, and rear bumper on my F150 using Rustoleum products back in October. I've just seen quite a few members here use the Krylon on their interiors here, and the Satin Nickel will work well with the rest of the color-scheme, so I thought I'd check in before proceeding.

[65Gregg]

If you chase "Lakeroadster" down on the C10 forum, or Chevy Talk or the HAMB. He did his some time back with that paint but is no longer on this forum.

[markeb01]

I haven’t used either of those specific paints, but I’ve been using Krylon 1403 Dull Aluminum since the early 1980’s. The newest can purchased states “For Use Inside”, and is now labeled as a “special purpose” metallics paint. The older cans have no such limitations noted.

I don’t know if they’ve changed the formula, but everything I’ve used this on has been for outside applications. Hood hinges, engine parts, bird feeder brackets, yard tools, etc. The paint remained fresh looking for decades. The only thing I can think of I’ve used it on in the last few years is my valve covers, intake manifold, and thermostat housing. There is some minor staining where it hasn’t been cleaned for extended periods, but this is what it looks like today. These parts were painted about 4 years ago, from the newest can labeled indoor use:

[racecougar]

Originally Posted by 65Gregg

If you chase "Lakeroadster" down on the C10 forum, or Chevy Talk or the HAMB. He did his some time back with that paint but is no longer on this forum.

Thanks. I'll see if I can reach him.

Originally Posted by markeb01

I haven’t used either of those specific paints, but I’ve been using Krylon 1403 Dull Aluminum since the early 1980’s. The newest can purchased states “For Use Inside”, and is now labeled as a “special purpose” metallics paint. The older cans have no such limitations noted.

I don’t know if they’ve changed the formula, but everything I’ve used this on has been for outside applications. Hood hinges, engine parts, bird feeder brackets, yard tools, etc. The paint remained fresh looking for decades. The only thing I can think of I’ve used it on in the last few years is my valve covers, intake manifold, and thermostat housing. There is some minor staining where it hasn’t been cleaned for extended periods, but this is what it looks like today. These parts were painted about 4 years ago, from the newest can labeled indoor use.

It looks like Krylon has the same recommendations as to use of the 1403 as they do for the Brushed Metallic series paints. Provided they didn't change the formula since you applied it, it looks like it would hold up VERY well. That looks great.

[61_FL_Apache]

I think the puff can paint looks good, but doesn't always hold up well.. I did my interior with one and I cant remember the brand at this time. Overall its good, but I get a passenger or two that will release their seatbelt and let it fly and hit the door.. Lets say I have some chips in my paint job that im not happy with.

[cortcomp]

Rattle can paint will never dry as hard as 2 part paint...it doesn't have a hardener. I did my interior with rustoleum but i had to sand a test paint section down for final paint, it was months later and A) it lost some of its gloss and B) when sanded it would ball up and not sand smooth. I had to remove most of it. The other single stage and factory paint did not give me that problem. Doing it again, in gloss, i'd go single stage like nason or centari, with clear over like i did the outside. Not much more work, little bit more money, WAY harder finish

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Mine was done several years ago with Krylon satin. it's held up pretty well aside from the few scuffs and scrapes you'd expect from any paint after 8+ years. I'd recommend it.

Now saying that, I'm going to go with mixed paint myself (Epoxy if I can get it mixed right) when I re-do it.

[racecougar]

Originally Posted by 65Gregg

If you chase "Lakeroadster" down on the C10 forum, or Chevy Talk or the HAMB. He did his some time back with that paint but is no longer on this forum.

I was able to reach Lakeroadster. Here's what he had to say:

Originally Posted by Lakeroadster

So far so good, I really have zero complaints.

Keep in mind though my truck spends most of it's time in my shop (unheated), so it hasn't seen much UV.

In reality though, you are using it on an interior, which is in reality "indoor".

Originally Posted by 61_FL_Apache

I think the puff can paint looks good, but doesn't always hold up well.. I did my interior with one and I cant remember the brand at this time. Overall its good, but I get a passenger or two that will release their seatbelt and let it fly and hit the door.. Lets say I have some chips in my paint job that im not happy with.

I can't say I'd fault the paint, any paint, in that situation.

Originally Posted by cortcomp

Rattle can paint will never dry as hard as 2 part paint...it doesn't have a hardener. I did my interior with rustoleum but i had to sand a test paint section down for final paint, it was months later and A) it lost some of its gloss and B) when sanded it would ball up and not sand smooth. I had to remove most of it. The other single stage and factory paint did not give me that problem. Doing it again, in gloss, i'd go single stage like nason or centari, with clear over like i did the outside. Not much more work, little bit more money, WAY harder finish

Valid point.

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi

Mine was done several years ago with Krylon satin. it's held up pretty well aside from the few scuffs and scrapes you'd expect from any paint after 8+ years. I'd recommend it.

Thankyou for the real world experience with the Krylon paint. I can handle scuffs and scrapes, but I don't want the paint wearing off the door panels from peoples arms touching it.

[kieth]

You can go to a PPG automotive paint store, use the original color codes from Dietzler at (www.autocolorlibrary) and they can make you cans of original color spray paint from those codes. (buy a cheap spray gun and the paint and the activator should only cost 50.00, you will get a better quality job and it will not cost much. The interior colors come mixed with much more thinner in them so they are a flat finish.......but the color is there......Kieth

[racecougar]

I'd honestly prefer to shoot this with a gun rather than rattle can it, but this isn't entirely my call. I plan to paint a few color cards up and we'll see what paint gets the go ahead. Since those that have used the Krylon seem to be happy with it, it will be included as an option. I just need to know what direction we're headed with the paint, so I can get it in primer.

Just to be clear, we're not looking to match an original color. I just mentioned that in the first post as many have used another shade of Krylon as a close copy of the original Fawn Metallic.

[VonDog]

I found some rattle can paint at a sherwin Williams automotive paint store that has the colors that seem pretty close. I think they are SEM