Can anybody give me a reasonable shop rate on replacing a 6.2 injection pump?

[cam.man67]

The reason I've been on and off selling Whitey was my shop's initial seemingly outrageous quote for repalcing the injection pump. They quoted me 10 hours and a final price of $2200, which is in no way even remotely justifiable for as little as I paid for the truck.

However, now I'm reading that it's more like a 4-6 hour job instead. I'm wondering if my shop just didn't want to deal with it.

What is a reasonable cost to replace the pump? How many hours should it take for a competent shop to do it?

[Corts60]

The best way to do it is pull it yourself and take it to an injection shop. The injection shop shouldn't charge more than $400 to rebuild it. Then re-install, bleed, and you're off.

And yes, that shop rate is way too much. I think you are correct in assuming they don't want to deal with it. $1500 is the most I've heard of people spending to have a repair shop replace the pump.

[Oldriginal86]

Noticed you are somewhat close to me. We've had good luck with Parks on the eastern shore. They have a shop in Mardela Springs. Might be a bit of a drive but they do good work.

[Sabaka454]

They actually quoted you close to what it's listed at. 5 hours x $90 = $450. List on the injection pump $1624.08 + whatever tax is let's just say 6% = sub of $2074.08 and $124.45 tax total = $2198.53

So if you can bring your own injection pump that's where you'll save $$$ Looks like reman's are around $400 bucks http://www.injectorwarehouse.com/die...FYNxOgodKisACg

[D13]

If you're just looking to get it up and running, rebuilt pump should be less then $600.
2 biggest problems are getting the lines back on and bleeding air, takes a lot of time to get the air out, need to loosen all lines at injectors, etc. Took me about 6 hours to do my own, 2 hours cleaning, about an hour to swap pump, hour to clena and reassemble lines, hour to purge air and convince it to run. PITA and a mess.

[cam.man67]

Thanks for the link, sabaka454...does anybody have any experience with that reman pump? Is it any good?

[crashz]

I've never bought a pump online, always use a local Stanadyne service shop. Make sure they send you the 24V pump rather than the civilian 12V pump, unless you already made the 12V conversion.

Question for you: What made you suspect the pump? I'm having a starting/ running/stumbling problem on my 87 that I think may be either timing or pump related, but can't find the issue. My last two trucks had failed pumps and they just died. No re-start possible, even with ether. I've done a bunch of diagnosis to the 87 (1st thought was air bubbles), but have not found the issue. I'm going to try and advance the timing, but beyond that, I'll replace the pump and injectors.

[Corts60]

Get your injectors pop tested before you go replacing things or adjusting timing. Just pull them out and take them to an injection shop. Normally it's around $10 an injector to test them.

[Rubble]

I done my 86 couple weeks ago,it was the pump for sure on this truck,would hardly run,smoke like crazy.I didn't really time myself,but maybe 10 hours total,that's replacing water pump & lift pump as well.Your right there anyways, as far as bleeding it,this truck has a primer button on the spin on filter base.It makes bleeding whole bunch easier too!!I had the lift pump go on the 82 couple months ago in town,so i chose to do this one in the comfort of a warm shop instead.Probably the easiest IP I have ever changed too!!

[cam.man67]

Originally Posted by crashz

I've never bought a pump online, always use a local Stanadyne service shop. Make sure they send you the 24V pump rather than the civilian 12V pump, unless you already made the 12V conversion.

Question for you: What made you suspect the pump? I'm having a starting/ running/stumbling problem on my 87 that I think may be either timing or pump related, but can't find the issue. My last two trucks had failed pumps and they just died. No re-start possible, even with ether. I've done a bunch of diagnosis to the 87 (1st thought was air bubbles), but have not found the issue. I'm going to try and advance the timing, but beyond that, I'll replace the pump and injectors.

Ooh, thanks..that's a great point about the 12v vs 24v deal. I'm still mil-spec 24v.

Why do I think the pump is bad? Well, it runs good. Not great, but good. it did die once when a friend was borrowing it, but mainly the pump is suspect because there's diesel pouring out of it from somewhere underneath. I had a diesel tech look at it, he agreed.

[crashz]

Originally Posted by cam.man67

but mainly the pump is suspect because there's diesel pouring out of it from somewhere underneath. I had a diesel tech look at it, he agreed.

That will do it! They are know to have leaky seals when they get old.

[lindstromjd]

$2200 to replace an injection pump!?!??! Geez, I need to change jobs.

OP, sent you a PM.

[Rubble]

[QUOTE=lindstromjd;6425160]$2200 to replace an injection pump!?!??! Geez, I need to change jobs.
I didn't pay myself nearly enough eh!!!!!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by cam.man67

Ooh, thanks..that's a great point about the 12v vs 24v deal. I'm still mil-spec 24v.

Why do I think the pump is bad? Well, it runs good. Not great, but good. it did die once when a friend was borrowing it, but mainly the pump is suspect because there's diesel pouring out of it from somewhere underneath. I had a diesel tech look at it, he agreed.

Since it runs good... I'd get your pump re-built locally rather than swapping out with yours as a core. Get the injectors pop tested or build a hydraulic jack pop tester and DIY.


The main difference is the Fuel cutoff solenoid is 24v and maybe the HPCA. The rest of the pump is a mechanical DB2. The CUCV pumps may have a different advance curve as well.

[cam.man67]

Im wondering...since the main problem is it pouring diesel out, could I just get a seal kit for it? If so, any recommendations?

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by cam.man67

Im wondering...since the main problem is it pouring diesel out, could I just get a seal kit for it? If so, any recommendations?

That's only 1/3 of the work of a proper rebuild, and you'd only be masking whatever problems the IP has developed to make it leak in the first place.

[Pine Bark Auto]

Back in the early to mid eighties I was working in a Chevy dealership and that was the "heartbreaker" malady on the 5.7/6.2 diesels. Right up there with blown head gaskets on the 5.7. I think it ran about $1500 then to have pump and injectors gone through and reinstalled. I think the Stanadyne repair shop required us to send pump and injectors both for them to stand behind the repairs. One plus is, you will like how it runs after. Almost every customer swore their vehicles never ran as well before. Somewhat like a gas vehicle needing a tune-up...you don't notice the decline in performance. The performance improvement helped take the sting out of the cost. Chip.