Dash pics....

[allthrtl]

I found this in low84's pictures, anybody else tried this option? Got any closer pictures? I'm just looking for options... Although I don't know if anyone will beat Mike's way. Something a little simpler would be nice..... But, like my dad always said, "If it was easy, everybody would be doing it"....

Edit: I guess I should include the pic....

[87 Shortwide]

Hey you found my guages...small world. That was actually pretty dang simple....I did it when I was 15 years old, that tells you it is pretty simple.

[allthrtl]

LOL, I guess it is a small world.....I supposed I should go ahead and order some guages, then ponder on how to mount them... I remember reading somewhere on this board that someone was working on an alternate method, but I haven't heard anymore about it.......maybe they'll speak up????

[bigblock73]

heres my method

[jon_volk]

87 shortwide...

are those the 3" and change tach and speedo?

[Crush]

Originally posted by bigblock73
heres my method

that's EXACTLY what I'm working on right now BB73.....I'm using the 2 1/16th gauges on the side though.....anything I should know about before I start cutting?

[bigblock73]

Originally posted by Crush


that's EXACTLY what I'm working on right now BB73.....I'm using the 2 1/16th gauges on the side though.....anything I should know about before I start cutting?

here is the article I wrote on how I did it, it will be published soon on 73-87.com

Autometer Gauge install

This is a “how-to” article on how I installed my Autometer Ultralight gauges into my ’73. As many of you may agree, the stock gauges and dash lights on 73-87 GM trucks have lots of room for improvements. The gauges themselves are not completely accurate (as with most stock gauges in older cars/trucks) and can be difficult to see and read due to a rather poor lighting design from GM. The following steps will show you how to install aftermarket gauges just about any truck, Suburban, or Blazer of the 73-87 (88-91) vintage.

Here is a list of the following items you will need to perform this upgrade…

Gauges
- 5” tachometer
- 5” speedometer
- 2 5/8” oil pressure
- 2 5/8” water temp
- 2 5/8” voltmeter
- 2 5/8” fuel

Misc.
- stock dash bezel
- stock gauge cluster housing
- aluminum bezel
- (3) LED indicators
- gauge wiring harness (optional)

Tools
- electric dremel with various attachments
- sandpaper
- hobby saw
- drill with various bits

The first thing I did was to enlarge the gauge openings in my stock dash bezel. I am sure there are several ways to do this, I will explain my method. I turned the bezel over and drilled holes completely around the gauge openings from the back side, leaving a small gap between each hole. If you drill too close to the previous hole, you risk the chance of the drill bit “jumping” around and possibly causing unwanted damage to the bezel. Once I drilled completely around the stock openings, I used a hobby saw to “connect the dots” for lack of a better term. Once you have carefully sawed all the way around, the inner face of the stock openings should just fall out. With those removed, simply get some sandpaper and smooth out the rough edges on the bezel. Granted, you will not see this part of the bezel once the modification is complete, but finishing it off completely will give you a better piece of mind and the overall fit and finish will be second to none.

Now that your stock bezel has been modified, you will need to do the same to the gauge cluster housing. Because aftermarket gauged are larger and deeper that the factory ones, they will not fit into the gauge cluster housing. To modify your cluster housing to work, you will basically need to cut off the entire backside of it, I used a dremel with small cut off wheels for this. This is a little tricky and will take a little getting used to, so take your time and don’t rush it. Before you start cutting, you will first need to remove the factory gauges, circuit board, bulbs, and all hold downs on the backside. Once the housing is completely bare, you simply cut along the sides (with your dremel) parallel to the rear of the housing, all the way around. Take your time because the plastic will melt a little and become hot and the cut off wheels will break easily if pushed too hard. Unfortunately, cutting off the rear of the housing will not complete the task, most of the inner pieces are molded in a little further to the front thus causing it to stay attached. These areas can be a little tricky to remove because of their location, but if you remove bits and pieces a little bit at a time, eventually the entire inner and rear structure of the housing will be removed. Once the unwanted plastic is removed, spend some time sanding the rough edges to give it a finished look and feel.

The next step is the most difficult but also the most important part of this process. You will need to purchase an aluminum overlay for your stock bezel, here is where I purchased mine. Once you have this overlay, you will need to modify or machine it to clear your aftermarket gauges. You can either do this with a dremel and a very steady hand, or you can find a local machine shop and have them do it for you. I chose to have mine machined out simply because I did not want to risk scratching or ruining my overlay.

Once the three modifications described above are complete, you can then install the gauges into the aluminum dash bezel. One thing to look out for, the two gauges to the very left of the bezel cannot be installed until the gauge cluster housing and dash bezel are installed into the actual dash of the vehicle. Because of the gauge size and angle of the dash, you will not be able to slide the aluminum bezel over the dash bezel with them installed…they will have to be installed separately. The location of the gauges is ultimately up to you, I opted to place mine in the same location the factory placed them in tach dash equipped trucks.

The following step is optional, but I highly recommended it. I purchased a Painless gauge wiring harness to wire in my gauges. The benefit of this is the fact that it is completely pre-wired, all you have to do is put terminals on your gauges and the harness and plug them in…that’s it. The rest is basic wiring to your fuse box and sensors/fittings.

The final step is to install the gauge cluster housing, dash bezel, and finally the gauges onto the truck. Once the gauges are in, all that is left is to install your turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, and wire everything up. Here is a picture of my assembly (my fiancé is the model) before it was installed in my 73.

[Grim Reaper]

I love this set up with the Auto meters. My stupid speed sensor for my 88's FI is in my speedometer so I'm fairly well screwed. Not sure there is a way to tie in a VSS and run a cable speedo or run and electric speedo.


http://www.73-87.com/photos/gpics.htm

[swervin ervin]

Grim,

I do know that Autometer came out with an electric speedo in the Pro-Comp gauge, after I did the above gauge install. I talked to them about the cruise and they told me that with the mechanical Pro-Comps there was no way to hook the factory cruise to them. But, the electric Pro-Comp will work. I'm not positive on this, but I'm pretty sure this will work on the VSS because that is basically what the cruise is, a vehicle speed sensor. Call Autometer and ask them about this.

Mike

[Grim Reaper]

Originally posted by swervin ervin
Grim,

I do know that Autometer came out with an electric speedo in the Pro-Comp gauge, after I did the above gauge install. I talked to them about the cruise and they told me that with the mechanical Pro-Comps there was no way to hook the factory cruise to them. But, the electric Pro-Comp will work. I'm not positive on this, but I'm pretty sure this will work on the VSS because that is basically what the cruise is, a vehicle speed sensor. Call Autometer and ask them about this.

Mike

Hmmm I know you can buy a VSS that will screw into the speedo drive on the tranny. I wonder if it has enough to drive the ECM and the Cruise (I'm a cruise junky).

Have you ever seen the old cruise control set up? It had a cable driven speed sensor mounted under the hood on the driverside fender. The cable from the tranny went to it and then a second cable came out and went to the speedo. My old 79 K5 had that set up. I wonder if that could be adapted to function as a VSS? It just needs to produce about 2,000 pulses per mile to drive the ECM. I don't think the cruis cares how many pulses it has just as long as it has them. It just tries to maintain the same frequency of pulses as it goes down the road.

[87 Shortwide]

jon_volk, the tach and speedo are 3 5/8

[swervin ervin]

Grim,

yes, I've seen the old cruise setup. I'm not real computer savy, but I'm sure you can rig something up. I'd give Autometer a call to find out more.

[Grim Reaper]

Originally posted by swervin ervin
Grim,

yes, I've seen the old cruise setup. I'm not real computer savy, but I'm sure you can rig something up. I'd give Autometer a call to find out more.

I'll give them a ring in the spring when I catch up from my wifes X-Mas spending. She decided she wanted a family vacation for spring break was going to be her gift. SO $1700 later for beach house rental for a week and security deposit I'm a little tight on cash LOL.

[allthrtl]

I love the way Jeff's guages look, real racey...but I'm concerned that I wouldn't like the angle of the gauges once installed, never seen a pic from the driver perspective looking at the guages.... I'll probably end up with a set up simular to Mike's....I'm also thinking about something like 87shortwide's setup, but with a guage that has a little different trim ring.....I just need to get my hands on some different guages to look at.....


Thanks guys...
Michael

[PHOENIX]

My gauges are installed like Jeff's except I dont have the aluminum overlay. You have no problems seeing the gauge as far as angle. Then problem is with the steering wheel. I have a grant gt wheel on there and it is a little smaller then the original. The top of the wheel blocks the top of the speedo and tach. If the gauges in my truck were installed like Mikes the steering wheel would block lower on the gauges then just the top. I do not have tilt so my wheel is where it is with no adjustment. If my seat was back all the way I can see the entire gauge without the steering wheel blocking it at all. I have my seat moved up a bit because i have some speaker boxes behind the seat. When I move the speakers and get diffierent seats I can move the seat back and recline it to more comfortable position and be happy all around.
Now I just need the money to do it

[Prerunner1982]

and you guys thought you had custom dashes/guages...

[C-10volvo]

Originally posted by Prerunner1982
and you guys thought you had custom dashes/guages...

the only way that i could tell that it was a 73-87 dash was from the heater control haha

[Prerunner1982]

i like that everything is in the middle within reach, i hate having to lean up to do anything.....