time for bed -finish

[Solver]

I got my wood for my bed grooved yesterday and now want to finish the wood. I stained and then polyetheran'ed my last bed and after only one year it is already peeling the varnish off. Would like to know what you guys are using. This truck is not going to be a trailer queen and I would like for the wood to be able to get wet occasionally(car wash). But after all new wood I would like it to be somewhat dressy.I like the gloss of poly but once it starts pelling it looks worse than no gloss at all.I have done the search on this board and have yet to find a good solution.

[old Rusty C10]

try verethane

[shuttermutt]

Spar varnish, baby! It's the only way to fly with wood that's going to be exposed to harsh environmental conditions. If it's good enough for saltwater boats, it's good enough for the bed of your truck.

If you really want to make it bulletproof then give it several applications of oil (linseed is fine, tung if you're rich), then spar varnish on top. Apply a coat of oil, wipe the excess off after about 30 minutes, allow to dry, rub with #000 steel wool and repeat until you can't stand it any more (at least 3 applications - you're trying to penetrate the wood as much as possible).

Now apply at least two coats of spar varnish according to the manufacturer's directions. If you're REALLY in the mood to go nuts, give it a couple of coats of a high quality paste wax (NOT car wax) after at least 72 hours after applying the last coat of spar. If you do all of this, you'll be able to blast that wood with a high-pressure washer and it'll just laugh it off.

Avoid polyurethane for applications like this since (as you've discovered) it's not really intended to hold up in situations like this. Spar can give you a deep gloss, a flat finish, or anything in between. It's also easy to touch-up and repair as necessary. Just remember, you want SPAR varnish.

Good luck!

[Solver]

Shuttermut I already have a gallon of oil based stain If I use that what stage of the process would I use it.(I don't like the color of natural Oak) Would it be 1st? then can I still linseed or tung oil over that?Or will the linseed/tung oil and spar varnish change the wood color anyway? Have you done this on a box or have pictures?
Thanks

Shannon

[cali_surfer]

Two words ....... epoxy resin.

[Tuck]

Use the same 2K clear put over paint. It has UV protector in it and holds up great. I refinish gun stocks with it all the time.

[shuttermutt]

Originally posted by Solver
Shuttermut I already have a gallon of oil based stain If I use that what stage of the process would I use it.(I don't like the color of natural Oak) Would it be 1st? then can I still linseed or tung oil over that?Or will the linseed/tung oil and spar varnish change the wood color anyway? Have you done this on a box or have pictures?

Yep, just put the stain on first. You can oil right over the top of that. Just make sure to give that stain plenty of dry time so you don't blotch the finish with the oil.

The oil/varnish/wax process will darken and very slightly yellow that oak. For red oak, it will bring out the red color. For white oak, it will yellow it some and darken it. Oak takes stain pretty well. Try it on a scrap piece first to see what you like.

Be aware that the first coat of oil (and the second just a tiny bit) will tend to raise the grain of that oak. By that, I mean that the wood will get just a little bit "fuzzy" and splotches may appear (doubtful). Don't fret! Just run over it with some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper and the fuzz goes away real easy. In fact, it's a good sign as it means the wood is taking the oil (which it won't if the moisture content of the wood is too high). After you've knocked the fuzz down, proceed with #000 steel wool for the rest of the coats.

Note: Be sure to tack the wood down after each rubbing with the steel wool! This is important. You want to remove any fragments before you apply another coat of anything. Embedded steel wool fragments can rust and stain the wood. If you're really concerned about it, use a Scotch-Brite pad instead.

I've never had a truck with a wood bed, but I've done a lot of woodwork. One grandfather was a trim carpenter, the other was a furniture maker. My father was a cabinet builder and I've spent 20 years doing all of it in their shops and now my own. I don't have any pictures, but the end result will look a lot like poly (perhaps not quite as glossy).

There are other processes that will work, but it's tough to beat this process for durability, ease of repair, and low cost. I've used it many times for pieces that were destined to see harsh conditions and it hasn't failed me yet. The nice thing about the oil/varnish/was combination is that it remains flexible and offers UV protection. Fortunately, since the wood is so narrow, you're not going to see much in the way of expansion and shrinkage across the grain. Still, that flexibility is what will keep the finish from crazing or cracking a year later.

Glad to help. Good luck with your project!

[shuttermutt]

Originally posted by cali_surfer
Two words ....... epoxy resin.

Yep, epoxy resin is cool stuff, but you'll still need to topcoat it with spar (or equivalent) to provide UV protection. If you don't, the resin will start to cloud and turn milky. From there, it's a REAL pain to strip and repair. Epoxy resin is also a bit of a hassle for some folks to deal with given that you've got to use a hardener and all that jazz. Still, it can make a nice finish when done properly.