Turbo piping vs Fuel lines

[BR3W CITY]

So I'm curious if anyone has run into a situation involving the close-ness of fuel lines to hotside turbo piping.

We've been eyeing some possibilities for the season, but our situation is as follows;

Fuel lines run up Pass side rail, before coming up firewall and going to braided line for the rail. The best place to fit the snail would be passenger side in the old battery tray area.
This means exhaust side would come out the back of the turbo, and pass directly beneath the fuel lines before running under the truck. It also means that the fuel lines and the exhaust would be 3-4" apart, for about 4 feet under the truck. I'm a little worried about the pre heating of the fuel like that, just having seen what boiled fuel can do.

So, is there an option? Wrapping or sheilding either the pipe or the fuel lines?

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Well I get to deal with it often in the air cooled world of HD you are dealing in 1-2 inches and head temps in the high 200-300 in traffic. It can cook off once turned off but with what I have read of your post's I think you will figure it out with heat tape and such. A basic reflective shield really works well. Bounce the heat vs soaking it up. I ran into this on the cummins with 48 PSI of boost. I fabbed up a SS flat rolled it to match the curve and it stopped it from heating the a/c lines no more issues

Example we added a silly SS shield to our small fireplace. Shocking the amount of heat it pushed back out the front. To the point we had to move some items around int he living room as one chair I thought would catch on fire.

Thermal coating, SS shield and wrap I am betting would solve the issue. Do you have a picture of the set up ?

[BR3W CITY]

We're just mocking things up right now with stuff we have sitting around before buying the new turbo etc. I run into project-creep too easily so I'm trying to address little things that pop to mind before I build it and run into any real problems. I use the foam-noodle method to mock pipe routes.

If your saying 2-3" distance with some shielding is doable, then I think I'm probably ok with my estimated spacing.

[BigDan3131]

I covered all my lines with this stuff: http://hosewarehouse.com/Hydraulic/H...4-8-Firesleeve . You know you don't have to run a full length exhaust, I thought I read you should have at least 2-3 feet of tubing and then a muffler if you need it. If your not running anything larger than a 76mm turbo you can get away with 3 inch pipe and although its pricey Spintech has round to oval transition pipes that I plan to use to run it under the front crossmember since I'm not lowering my truck too much.

[BR3W CITY]

I feel that. We were looking at just dumping the wastegate bypass instead of routing it back into the exhaust to simplify.

My truck has a side-exit that dumps out of the step bed, and since I did a body mod to make it happen, we kinda want to keep it functional.

The idea we had was to just run a single pipe back (3, 3.5, 4" not sure at this point) and then doing a Y right at the back of the cab so I could still have it exit in its current spot. This also lets use run a single muffler....tho we toyed with just using the turbo as the muffler.....

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Making a basic SS shroud is very simple once you shape it add some basic hoops to attach it with worm clamps and your done. If you want to be trick polish it.. or have it coated.. A shield is the most effect you can get but there are times that room is the issue.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by GMR-PERFORMANCE

Making a basic SS shroud is very simple once you shape it add some basic hoops to attach it with worm clamps and your done. If you want to be trick polish it.. or have it coated.. A shield is the most effect you can get but there are times that room is the issue.

Cool man, thanks. I've got hammers and dolly's etc, so I'm sure with some tube stock and a sheet of SS we can hand-bend something simple.
On that note, I'm FINALLY getting into a TIG class, after 5 years of welding. Pretty excited.