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05-21-2014, 10:49 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 90
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Quick Question On Disc Brakes
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05-21-2014, 11:14 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Mickleton, NJ
Posts: 1,776
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
You need a different one and a proportioning valve.
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Shawn 1970 Chevy C-10 SWB, 350, TKO 600 5 speed My build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=559881 |
05-21-2014, 11:26 PM | #3 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,731
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
^^ Yes. And IMO, you also need a vacuum booster. It takes higher line pressure (meaning greater leg pressure) to operate disc brakes than drum brakes.
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
05-21-2014, 11:48 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Upland, Calif
Posts: 698
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
That master will work, the only thing is you will have to refill the fluid down the road as the chamber is smaller. It's a 1" bore which is the same as the proper disc drum master so there is no difference in any pressure. You need a prop valve if the rear brakes lock up excessively before the fronts. All a booster does is give you assist in pushing the pedal, so you have to do more leg work with manual, it's mostly a personnel preference. You do not have to have a booster just because you have disc brakes. I prefer a booster on a heavy vehicle.
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1957 CHEVY 1/2 TON SHORT BED 1940 FORD 1/2 TON SHORT BED |
05-22-2014, 12:11 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Godley, TX
Posts: 17,976
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
the non-disk brake masters have internal proportioning built-in in the way that the ports are uncovered. You need a disk brake master cylinder, and, at a minimum, a disk brake distrib block/prop valve. It doesn't HAVE to be an adjustable one - the factory ones weren't. If you're installing an aftermarket setup, then you probably should install an adjustable one - if swapping in factory disks, then a factory block/valve will do.
I do concur with the comments above - I'd highly recommend a booster setup, you won't regret it. But it is not required. Also, keep in mind that disk/drum setups used 1/4 and 3/16 brake lines, whereas drums used 1/4 lines all the way around. |
05-22-2014, 06:53 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunbury, N.C
Posts: 140
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
I use a non power brake kit I got from performance online. The kit was in my opinion a great value and they work great. I believe you can buy parts individually from them too.
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05-22-2014, 10:05 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 90
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
Thanks for all the info guys. I really appreciate it. Im going to check online for a MC and prop vaulve
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05-22-2014, 12:03 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
I just did front discs. I bought the CPP adjustable port valve and 1972 Master with no booster. Boosters are ugly and over rated, you dont need it.
Cheers
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
05-22-2014, 12:04 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
15" steel rims rub on the side of the caliper just so you know. have to grind the corner off. Or get 17" plus rims
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
05-22-2014, 01:22 PM | #10 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
I drove my truck with non power drums for about 6 years. It's had power disc for the last 12. If I ever buy another 67-72 and it has now power drums or discs it's getting converted to power. It's cheaper to add it now than later. If you go with the factory style booster, you'll also need the bracket and correct pedal rod.
I converted my non power disc 65 mustang to power discs, and there is a minimal difference in "leg effort," it almost wasn't worth it, HOWEVER, I'd consider the "leg effort" in the C10 to be much more significant with non power, and therefore, worth it.
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
05-22-2014, 04:18 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
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Re: Quick Question On Disc Brakes
My clutch is 100 times harder to push then the manual brakes. Not hard to push at all. 60 lbs woman might have troubles..
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
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