Dropped front axle

[Jonzon]

I need some suggestions on how to make the steering work with a 3" drop axle. Do I have to fabricate or can I buy some brackets between spindle and the "steering arm" that bolts on to it? ("Steering arm"; don't know the correct english word. Hope you understand) It looks like the steering rods will hit the spring leaf. Any ideas and thoughts is welcome. I have search the forum but not found anything.
I have bought this axle: http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-.../#.UpImscsV_b0

[dubie]

I used the same dropped axle but also installed mono leafs to drop it another 3" But you may need to replace your tie rod and ends with the modern style that mounts under the steering arms instead of on top. Once you lower the truck, the geometry of everything changes and you have to adjust to make it work. I had to also heat my steering arm on the drivers side with a torch and bend it to make the drag link parallel to avoid bump steer

[Jonzon]

Thank You, Tim! I read some of Your build thread and I'm impressed! I will study it in full later.

Some PO has replaced the original steer box with an power steer box. The steer rod is going to the left wheel and the drag link is going back to left wheel. Looks backwards but the truck drives really good. I tried to post some pics but failed.

I'm sure gonna need some good help with this!

[Jonzon]

I'm puzzled about the Kingpin. The end of the new axle is 10 mm wider than the old axle. There is no way I can get all the shims in the picture to fit? The greasy one is from the old axle. What should I do? Choosing what will fit and be happy with that?


End of front axle:


Does anyone have any thoughts about my steering? It's different from anything else I have seen. I have no clue what steering box it is, on the inside of the frame? Am I right when assuming there will be no problem with bump steer with those long steer rods?




I appreciate all input!

[nvrdone]

Hey Jonzon - the steering set up you have should work good with a few adjustments.
With new king pins, just assemble it with as many shims will fit. Just make sure you get the bearing & shims in the right order. Old time manufacturing tolerances were not too close. That's why they used shims.
For the tie rod ( that's the steer rod between the spindles) you will need to use new ends and a new rod and mount it below the steering arms for clearance. I used Ford tie rod ends because they have a straight shaft going thru the steering arm and it's easier to drill a straight hole instead of a tapered one.
With the steering box mounted where it is and a cross steer setup ( steering arm going to the right spindle ) you should not have problems with bump steer. Just make sure nothing hits when the suspension is fully compressed

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Jonzon

I need some suggestions on how to make the steering work with a 3" drop axle. Do I have to fabricate or can I buy some brackets between spindle and the "steering arm" that bolts on to it? ("Steering arm"; don't know the correct english word. Hope you understand) It looks like the steering rods will hit the spring leaf. Any ideas and thoughts is welcome. I have search the forum but not found anything.
I have bought this axle: http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-.../#.UpImscsV_b0

I have one of those axles that has never been used for sale if any of you are interested.

Brian

[Jonzon]

Thank you, nvrdone!

What is the right order? And, also, there is no way the thickest shims (Bearing?) will fit. It's about 3/8" (app. 10 mm) narrower with the new axle compare with old one!

I bought the kingpin set and drop axle from www.classicparts.com.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Jonzon

Thank you, nvrdone!

What is the right order? And, also, there is no way the thickest shims (Bearing?) will fit. It's about 3/8" (app. 10 mm) narrower with the new axle compare with old one!

.

You have to run the bearings so it will turn smoothly. I would have to believe that they did not machine the ends correctly and that they need to be machined to the same height as your old axle ends were. That should be a fairly simple job for a machine shop to do. I wouldn't suggest taking a grinder to it as it would be almost impossible to keep it perfectly square.

I would take the new axle and the old axle and spindle and king pin kit to the machine shop and show them the problem and they should be able to fix it fairly simply.

[nvrdone]

After looking at your pictures again, it does look like the thrust bearing won't fit between the spindle and axle flange. What are the dimensions of the old and new flanges?
Do you have a machine shop that could mill the new axle to match the old one?

[Tims37chevy]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

I have one of those axles that has never been used for sale if any of you are interested.

Brian

How much?

[BurgerMan]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

I have one of those axles that has never been used for sale if any of you are interested.

Brian

Also interested in hearing how much

[Jonzon]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

After looking at your pictures again, it does look like the thrust bearing won't fit between the spindle and axle flange. What are the dimensions of the old and new flanges?
Do you have a machine shop that could mill the new axle to match the old one?

Yes, I have to take the axle to a machine shop to get help with this. Its also important to get the hole for the lockpin in correct position I suppose? Mill some on both flanges? Or grind a new flat spot in the kingpin?

Is there someone that have used this axle with or without this problem?

Sorry for the metrics........




With the new kingpin set there is "washers" and shims. Nothing like the original thrust ball bearing. I'm thinking of using the old thrust bearing because it's seem to be of better qulity and function with balls and also in good condition.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by BurgerMan

Also interested in hearing how much

Originally Posted by Tims37chevy

How much?

Sent both of you a PM, don't know the policy on this board about such stuff.

Brian

[Highsider]

Jonzon-
Good photos and added details.

[Jonzon]

Originally Posted by Highsider

Jonzon-
Good photos and added details.

Thank You!

I'm really interested to get information from someone that have used this axle: http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-.../#.Ut4ECjgV_b0

[Jonzon]

Originally Posted by Jonzon

I'm really interested to get information from someone that have used this axle: http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-.../#.Ut4ECjgV_b0

Anyone?

[Jonzon]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I used Ford tie rod ends because they have a straight shaft going thru the steering arm and it's easier to drill a straight hole instead of a tapered one.

Have all Ford tie rod ends straight shaft? Or is it for some special model and year?

[dubie]

I used that same dropped axle on mine. I bought my tie rods and ends from Performance Online and they fit perfectly. Just go to their website and click on the 55-59 chevy pickup section and you'll find the tie rod and the ends

[dubie]

Also, you'll have to install your king pin bushings and then have them reamed to fit your king pins properly. Might as well get that done at the machine shop while the mill out the area to fit the bearing

[Jonzon]

Thank you, Dubie. Have orderd tie rod and ends as you suggested.

Picked up the axle from the mill shop today. Making some progress now

[Jonzon]

Took a long time but finally...............

[55dude]

very nice!

[Iceburgh]

Looks great