rebuilding my entire front end... advice - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

gasmn1620 · 01-13-2015, 10:18 PM

Ok, I'll be replacing upper and lower a-arms with new ball joints, drop spindles ( probably mcgaughys unless there is a better option), new tie rod ends, new shocks, drop springs, all new brakes, and all of the wheel bearings. What brands would you guys recommend for the bearings, drop shocks, springs, and spindles. The a-arms will be junkyard rebuilds. I have energy suspension bushings for the whole truck. Someone said to swap the pitman arm out while I'm in there. Any other suggestions. Gotta get this done because my front end is roaring from the bad bearing and old rusty brakes.

83swb · 01-13-2015, 10:30 PM

If you do control arm bushings go with polyurethane bushings that use the factory sleeves, or you will regret it after a weekend of unnecessary work (ask me how I know). Sounds like that's what you've already purchased, the old bushings are really "fun" to get out.

Don't think you can beat MOOG for steering components and balljoints.

For lowering components don't run anything off brand, a quick google image search will prove why you shouldn't go that route. I used western chassis parts for my build and they seem to build a quality, reasonably priced product.

**Corts60** · 01-13-2015, 10:49 PM

I use Moog for all tie-rods, pitman, idler, and bushings.

The A arm bushings will kick your a*s if you remove the factory sleeves. Not fun at all. Best way I found was to get a 1/4" drill bit and drill through the rubber at as many intervals as you can. That helps weaken and break up the rubber to get it out.

83swb · 01-13-2015, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corts60

I use Moog for all tie-rods, pitman, idler, and bushings.

The A arm bushings will kick your a*s if you remove the factory sleeves. Not fun at all. Best way I found was to get a 1/4" drill bit and drill through the rubber at as many intervals as you can. That helps weaken and break up the rubber to get it out.

x2^ Make sure you have some ventilation in the area your drilling, those things smoke and smell nasty when drilling or torching them out

, not the enjoyable smell of burning rubber you may be thinking of.

rich weyand · 01-14-2015, 02:14 AM

Second Moog parts. Put 'em in once and forget about 'em.

While you're doing all that, you might want to put the frame reinforcement in at the steering box.

Jaysonb · 01-14-2015, 04:05 AM

You can make quick work of the control arm bushings by cutting through the rubber with a hole saw, then knock out the metal with an air hammer.

Kaysen · 01-14-2015, 08:16 AM

^^^Never thought of that with the hole saw, but good idea!

77c10 · 01-14-2015, 10:09 AM

Might as well replace the idler arm while you are doing it....

gasmn1620 · 01-14-2015, 10:20 AM

Do we have any supporting vendors that are moog dealers? Advance auto has a sale going. I can get all the balls joints, inner and outter tie rods, the problem solver upper control arm rods shipped for around 360.

77c10 · 01-14-2015, 10:34 AM

I bought all my front end parts from Rock Auto. I don't remember the brand though.

gasmn1620 · 01-14-2015, 11:51 AM

thanks!! Rock Auto is about $140 cheaper!

86c20 · 01-14-2015, 11:56 AM

napa blue boots. they are the high end of napa. have had good luck with them when i could not get the moog parts as fast as i needed. still working good but for 10 bucks more i want moog. if for nothing else i better name lol

77c10 · 01-14-2015, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gasmn1620

thanks!! Rock Auto is about $140 cheaper!

You have to watch them at times though, they will ship from two or three different places and the shipping will rack up on you. I still saved money buying from them even after shipping though.

gasmn1620 · 01-14-2015, 12:28 PM

just got all the stuff from rock auto. Went ahead and got the idler arm and pitman arm too for less than the other stuff was at advance. Thanks guys.

gasmn1620 · 01-14-2015, 12:29 PM

now i just have to figure out which drop spindles to get. Read a lot of bad about djm and some good about mcgaughys. any input?

Joeys82c10 · 01-14-2015, 12:42 PM

Advance use code trt30 or trt41. Break it up into smaller order so you get the max discounts.

gasmn1620 · 01-16-2015, 02:22 PM

what brand wheel bearings do you guys use?

Joeys82c10 · 01-16-2015, 02:38 PM

American.

74CustomK20 · 01-16-2015, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joeys82c10

American.

HELL YEA! Timeken always has good bearings and done me good in my transfer case and SM465

gasmn1620 · 01-16-2015, 07:55 PM

I narrowed it down to Timken or oem replacements. Definitely not getting ebay or auto zone bearings.

01-13-2015, 10:18 PM	#1
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	rebuilding my entire front end... advice Ok, I'll be replacing upper and lower a-arms with new ball joints, drop spindles ( probably mcgaughys unless there is a better option), new tie rod ends, new shocks, drop springs, all new brakes, and all of the wheel bearings. What brands would you guys recommend for the bearings, drop shocks, springs, and spindles. The a-arms will be junkyard rebuilds. I have energy suspension bushings for the whole truck. Someone said to swap the pitman arm out while I'm in there. Any other suggestions. Gotta get this done because my front end is roaring from the bad bearing and old rusty brakes.

01-13-2015, 10:30 PM	#2
83swb Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: CT Posts: 133	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice If you do control arm bushings go with polyurethane bushings that use the factory sleeves, or you will regret it after a weekend of unnecessary work (ask me how I know). Sounds like that's what you've already purchased, the old bushings are really "fun" to get out. Don't think you can beat MOOG for steering components and balljoints. For lowering components don't run anything off brand, a quick google image search will prove why you shouldn't go that route. I used western chassis parts for my build and they seem to build a quality, reasonably priced product.

01-13-2015, 10:49 PM	#3
Corts60 Just here to tinker Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Holland, MI Posts: 3,697	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice I use Moog for all tie-rods, pitman, idler, and bushings. The A arm bushings will kick your as if you remove the factory sleeves. Not fun at all. Best way I found was to get a 1/4" drill bit and drill through the rubber at as many intervals as you can. That helps weaken and break up the rubber to get it out. __________________ 78 C10 SWB Diesel #1* (wrecked)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...1978+silverado 78 C10 SWB Diesel #2 (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=650751 60 GMC Suburban (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=445526 60 GMC 1000 (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=298235 67 GMC 1500 (sold) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=803695 73 Chevy C20(Daily)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=852767 86 Suburban(summer unit) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=810697 88 Suburban 4x4(sold)

01-14-2015, 02:14 AM	#5
rich weyand Registered User Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Bloomington Indiana Posts: 1,041	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice Second Moog parts. Put 'em in once and forget about 'em. While you're doing all that, you might want to put the frame reinforcement in at the steering box. __________________ Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD.

01-14-2015, 04:05 AM	#6
Jaysonb Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Good Thunder Mn. Posts: 955	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice You can make quick work of the control arm bushings by cutting through the rubber with a hole saw, then knock out the metal with an air hammer.

01-14-2015, 08:16 AM	#7
Kaysen Registered User Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Marietta, OK Posts: 277	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice ^^^Never thought of that with the hole saw, but good idea!

01-14-2015, 10:09 AM	#8
77c10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Gallatin, TN Posts: 782	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice Might as well replace the idler arm while you are doing it.... __________________ 77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool"

01-14-2015, 10:20 AM	#9
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice Do we have any supporting vendors that are moog dealers? Advance auto has a sale going. I can get all the balls joints, inner and outter tie rods, the problem solver upper control arm rods shipped for around 360.

01-14-2015, 10:34 AM	#10
77c10 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Gallatin, TN Posts: 782	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice I bought all my front end parts from Rock Auto. I don't remember the brand though. __________________ 77 C10, 6.0LS/4L80E, 3:73 12 bolt. Boss 338's 20" x 10" w/ 285/50/20 rear. 20" x 8.5" w/ 245/40/20 front. Vintage Air. Full Autometer gauges recessed in factory bezel (Thanks bigblock73!) Gm Storm Grey Metallic paint "Cool ain't ever cheap and cheap ain't ever cool"

01-14-2015, 11:51 AM	#11
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice thanks!! Rock Auto is about $140 cheaper!

01-14-2015, 11:56 AM	#12
86c20 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: edgartown mass Posts: 852	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice napa blue boots. they are the high end of napa. have had good luck with them when i could not get the moog parts as fast as i needed. still working good but for 10 bucks more i want moog. if for nothing else i better name lol __________________ 1986 c20 "the hillbilly" 350 sm465 3.42gears 21mpg at 70mph 1985 k30 "the ice cream truck from hell" no rust az truck 197-8??? c30 "ramp truck" 454 1978 monte carlo 350 350th with 2.73 gears. no rust. sc car

01-14-2015, 12:28 PM	#14
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice just got all the stuff from rock auto. Went ahead and got the idler arm and pitman arm too for less than the other stuff was at advance. Thanks guys.

01-14-2015, 12:29 PM	#15
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice now i just have to figure out which drop spindles to get. Read a lot of bad about djm and some good about mcgaughys. any input?

01-14-2015, 12:42 PM	#16
Joeys82c10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Chesapeake va Posts: 14	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice Advance use code trt30 or trt41. Break it up into smaller order so you get the max discounts.

01-16-2015, 02:22 PM	#17
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice what brand wheel bearings do you guys use?



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01-16-2015, 02:38 PM	#18
Joeys82c10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Chesapeake va Posts: 14	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice American.

01-16-2015, 07:55 PM	#20
gasmn1620 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: panama city, fl Posts: 204	Re: rebuilding my entire front end... advice I narrowed it down to Timken or oem replacements. Definitely not getting ebay or auto zone bearings.

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