1 st post / starter question. What is original

[Pauls52]

Well here goes, This truck has been sitting in my garage for about 15 years, before that I drove it for about a year then the starter quit, and life happens, so it just got pushed aside, My intentions when I got this truck was to do a total restore. The guy I got it from had not registered it or drove it since about 1980. So not a lot of miles on this old truck. Anyway the time is now and I want to restore to original, Its un cut and solid with no damage and very minimal rust. I plan on a frame off and replace worn parts from classicparts or lmc and such. Hoping I can do this for under 8 grand. and have it finished by summer. I may be putting in a large order soon and I have a question on what is the original starter set up. Mine has a solenoid attached to starter, and a push button on dash. Was this original for 52, or did it come with foot starter? I do have an extra starter with external solenoid but no linkage on truck . Anyway I will try to post some pics of my project and hope to continue with more,

[Axe]

That truck will have the starter button in the floor. Looks like you have a really nice starting point, looks really solid

[mr48chev]

From seeing the resistor (s) on the firewall someone in the past changed it to 12 volt so you will have to change it back to six volt to put it back to "original".

That shouldn't be a big issue but you will have to have a 6 volt starter, generator and regulator. That is if you are going to put it back to the exact way it was when it rolled out of the dealership in 1952. To me (and I am not a restorer) that is "restored" The rig is exactly the way it should have been when it was sold new off the dealer's lot with everything being correct on it.

[Pauls52]

thanks for the reply guys, It looks like I need to hunt down some linkage. I plan on keeping it 12V.( for simplicity to work on and reliability) So It will not be a correct 100% restore, But I will be keeping the little 216, with 1 barrel carb, and torque tube rear end. I will be running drum brakes all the way around. ( Don't think it will go fast enough to justify using disc brakes, or other power assist ) I will have to look into the 6v 12v starter thing, not sure what I have.

[OrrieG]

Looks like a good truck to start with. I would highly recommend that you purchase a Factory Assembly Manual for your truck. It shows how the truck was put together and a lot of details that do not show up in service or maintenance manual. It also shows all the little pieces that get removed, modified or fall off of the truck over time. It will be a good resource for finding what you need to make the truck original.

If it has been converted to 12 volts I would keep it that way for driveablility and safety. You get better performance, brighter lights, electric wipers and power for modern accessories. You can keep the original drive train and suspension set up but no one here will fault you for safety upgrades.

Start a build thread with some pics, look forward to seeing another one saved.

[Russell Ashley]

I'm not that familiar with the Chevy six's but isn't that a later model engine? Wouldn't a 216 have a more rounded valve cover?

[Rude Dude]

Motor looks like a 235 6 cylinder check the serial numbers on block near the distributor all on line to ID year

[curmudgeon]

I agree that it looks like a later model engine, the conversion from the original 216 to the later 235's was a common upgrade. The fact that the foot starter is missing is a hint that an engine was changed. Basically the 216 valve covers has the 2 hold down nuts on the the top of the covers.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...vs-235.730236/

[mr48chev]

The engine does look like a 235. Does the side cover on the right side of the engine go up on the side of the head along with covering the side of the block or does it stop right at the top of the block

All the way up = 216 just covering the block 235.

The pressure oiler 235 is a better engine that is pretty reliable and they were swapped in all the time back in the 50's and 60's when the 216 babbit beaters gave out.

You may be shooting for that 75% original truck but I don't see an issue with that unless you are going to take it to Chevy truck meets and try to compete in the all original class. If it looks right when you open the hood with a nice clean engine that is painted the right color and the rest of the pieces painted up nicely in the right colors most folks won't notice anyhow and you will be able to drive a little closer to cruising speed on the highway than the guys with the 216's.

Those horse trailer wheels would be the first thing to go if I had it though. They give any truck that "my owner was cheap and these were the cheapest thing the tire store had in stock" look.

[Pauls52]

Well, it looks like I got some book work to do, I will check the vin #, It probably wouldn't hurt my feelings if it was a 235, I agree it is a more reliable engine, had them in my sixty model trucks, and they were bullet proof. As for the wheels they are just on it to move it around I will have chrome smoothies, with babymoons when she all said and done, or maybe the original rims with white walls and hub caps, but right now all that's in the future and just need to concentrate on getting parts lined out, and thanks again for all the input, it helps

[Dan in Pasadena]

Make it stop

Make it go

Make it cool.

If it were mine, I'd pull it out of that garage and give her a thorough wash job and a scrub down with CLR, then some good wax. It'll enthuse you and you can see what you've got a little better. Orrie is absolutely right about buying a Factory Assembly Manual.

Then change out all the fluids, filters, belts and hoses. Take the gas tank out and consider having it professionally boiled out and leaks repaired. Get the brakes working, THEN try starting her up. I bet she still runs just fine!

[Pauls52]

good eye people, I knew I posted that pic for some reason. To my surprise its a 235 thriftmaster built in 1956 vin# 3837004 = 235 F56X= Flint, Michigan 1956 thriftmaster 3100-3800 seies.

[OrrieG]

Probably converted to 12v when engine was replaced. Are the headlights, etc. 12v too?

[curmudgeon]

Going back to your original starter question, the '53 and earlier 216/235 engines used a foot starter with that linkage attached to the top of the bellhousing. The starter was 6volt which work on the 139 tooth flywheel. The later 235 (full pressure engines) used a 12 volt starter with a 168 tooth flywheel. (although some applications used a 12v foot starter as well, also with the 168t). So, if you are looking to restore to exact original, you will be swapping in a less efficient engine, different bellhousing, starter, foot linkage and maybe flywheel. You can use 12v on a 6v starter, but then your battery is not fully "original" as well.