Electric Choke Frustrations

[cerial]

-Check to see if you have power going to the choke.
-Use a vacuum pump with integrated gauge and test the choke pull. Most people rebuild the carburetor and never replace the vacuum canisters wondering why the carb is junk when the canisters was the problem from the start.

As a quick test. If you are able to throttle the carb up the vacuum canister should open the choke. If not the canister may be weak.

-Replace all your vacuum lines. It is a cheap way to eliminate a large amount of guesswork.

Edelbrock, Holley, and Carter are all great carb's if used and tuned correctly. I have never had any luck with Weber. But most guys swear by them. It is all personal preference. I prefer Edelbrock because you can find them cheap and they take a lot more abuse then others.

I have crates of 2/4 jet and center drop of various cfm Edelbrock's from over the years. I have a few Holley's in there with many TBI for stealing parts off of. That being said some times the newer stuff is better(Holley). For $400 or less you can get a shiny new/newish carb. While that is a lot once you replace all the worn parts on a $40 junk yard carb you are going to be around $200 invested.

I ran a 650 avs this winter on a 350 in negative temps starting it around midnight over and over. I have the msd box on a switch and cranking the engine 10 or so times then flipping the switch allows for better starts.

Otherwise it does that thing where the engine starts then dies then needs to be started again or runs around 600rpm until the oil pressure builds.

Cranking the engine 7-10 times then waiting 10 or so seconds once the coil/choke are on gives a better start on carbs ranging from 300 to 850cfm on various engines over the years. Most of the time the vehicle fires on the first crank once the coil is powered and the idle evens out quickly. The hot air intake and pcv systems make a big difference in easier cold weather starts. If they are removed or not working you will have bad starts. I run different intakes during the winter then during the summer when I can get away running my cold air setup.

It sounds like your running rich and need to lean out the carb. Many things could have caused a over rich condition during the rebuild. Bent rods/tips comes to mind.
A 750 is way to big to start with. I ran my last modified 350 with the 650avs to 6600 so many times I needed to turn the limiter up. I never hit a wall fuel wise.
I would chuck/sell the 750 and start working on a 650. I got my AVS for $350 in box. Because I did not want to wait on shipping.